Read more.Quote:
Not a water cooling part but "a much needed aesthetical and functional heatsink".
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Read more.Quote:
Not a water cooling part but "a much needed aesthetical and functional heatsink".
Shut up and take my money
Well I like the look of them and the price is fair but how does it affect the m2 ssd warranty and does it actually work as they suggest....
Hexus, time to do some testing :)
Well at least they have fins, unlike MSI's non-effort.
Substantially thick fins at that, not just a tin plate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunbuster
Man, if only they could make one in the shape of an assault rifle... :(
Fixed that for you ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Sumanji
What's wrong with the old single chip heatsink fins you used to sometimes get? This sort of thing:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8Pcs-14mm-...3D332214642862
I think mainly its the thermal glue you would have to use, where as this uses retention clips. There is a chance of an RMA with the latter.Quote:
Originally Posted by kalniel
What Gunbuster said, plus, they're absolutely hideous!Quote:
Originally Posted by kalniel
For a second there, i thought there was gonna be a option to connect a custom loop to it and the water cooling loop would be complete. since one can already water cool their video cards cpus, vrms and even System RAM if desired.
Looks nice. Will add this to my cart now
Probably a stupid question but would this fit in a laptop(P650SE) ?
Been doing this for years since I first bought a Samsung XP941 and it kept throttling all the time.
Pity there is no copper variant, they are both aluminium.
I would much prefer a copper one, or a copper base with aluminium fins.
And maybe even an optional fan would be good.
The water cooling enthusiasts would probably want to see a water block instead.
As I understand it, copper is a better thermal conductor and aluminium is a better at radiating it away. But with a good airflow, copper is superior. (Aluminium - 200WmK and Copper - 400WmK from - http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/th...ity-d_429.html )
And there is no mention of the thermal pad stats.
Ever since I read an article at Puget Systems about how much M,2 SSD's produce (they include thermal photos of the hot spots - see below for a link), I have used the copper square heatsinks with a good fin setup, plus Fujipoly thermal pads (double sided mildly sticky) to help move the heat better. When changing M.2 SSD's, I have found these thermal pads lift straight off without causing any problems - also, I very carefully remove the M.2's label sticker and refit it later, and remember to try not to curl the edges (I understand that paper is a poor conductor of heat and acts more like a buffer or insulator - 0.05WmK).
And to assist with radiating the heat away, I use a small fan blowing across it.
Fortunately, my case allows the motherboard to lie flat, so I don't have to worry about things sagging or sliding off.
I have used 2x 950 Pros in a Skull Canyon NUC, and when gaming or other intensive workloads, I would remove the base and put it onto a laptop cooler which was upgraded with a 200mm Spectre Pro fan (plus a demcifilter in between). This had a marked effect on both the NUC's fan noise and the M.2's not throttling so much with the better airflow.
Puget Systems Samsung XP941 verses Plextor M6e - https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/ar...ification-575/
They have done similar tests and comparisons right up to the latest series of NVME M.2's (Samsung's 960's, et cetera) which is well worth going through.
I have never used thermal glue on my heatsinks, I use Fujipoly thermal pads which don't cause any problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunbuster
Wow they look amazing! Now I feel like getting an M. 2 just so I can put this heatsink on it...