Problems with my Peugeot 306 any ideas??

[dkmech]

Could it be anything to do with a fuel pump? We used to have a 309 which would struggle going up hills and generally misbehave because of that.

[Disco Beaver]

Hi all, wondering if anyone can help me? ive driven my car the last couple of times, 306 1.6 from 1996, and basically it has conked out, and wont start again for hours, called out the AA and he checked all the electrical conections and apparantly they were fine, so he said it would be a new fuel pump? but ive tried it the next morning and it started??

just wanted to confirm whether that is the fault? and anything else may go on it?

Many Thanks

Adam

[SilentDeath]

funny how many people register just to make one post about broken 306

When you turn the key, before starting engine, you should hear the fuel pump prime. If you dont get that ever, then the fuel pump could be dead (might take several hours for gravity to push fuel down to engine...)
If you only hear the niose sometimes, then it might just be electrical like a bad connection... does it run ok once its started? or cut out very soon after?

[Disco Beaver]

lol thanks for replying, well yeah i mean it started and ran ok this morning, but you can bet had i driven it half way down the road it would have stopped and not restarted, and the AA guy checked all electrical connections and they were all fine...

Regards

Adam

[riccorixon]

hi all, im probably well behind the times looking at the dates of some of these posts!! but alas im a pug 306 xsi (m reg) owner and yesterday the car would cut out at junctions etc.

i have read all the advice here, and have now rectified the problem for no cost! (just half an hour in the cold and dark!!)

all i did was remove the air pipe to air filter housing, unplugged all electrical connectors on throttle body (and breather pipes). then undid 3 x 5mm Allan Key bolts, removed throttle body, clean round butterfly valve to remove excess dirt and grime. i also unscrewed the "stepper" motor with a t20 torx screwdriver and cleaned.

after cleaning i replaced everything as it was...turned the key...and voila!! starts 1st time, idles at 800rpm

hope this helps any other unfortunate peugeot owner

[elss-bro]

Originally Posted by Gavpug

I Have just started to get the same sort of problem. I had the lamba sensor or whatever it is done a little while ago now it has started revving up and down constanty between 10-25,000 rev's. I have a couple of garages look at my car and they think it could be a fuel sensor problem. If anyone can pin point this problem please let me know cheers.....

yeah i had the problem with a 1.4i 97 model 306

my mate whilst under the bonnet as a joke did it when i told him to set it back to a steady idle and decent revs he unplugged the injection sensor timing set the idle with the screw behind the injection box and then plugged the injection timing sensor back in and all was fine was 20 second job


as for the head light i have a scrappy or two to go to but dont know exaclty how to take front headlight out you have to take slam panel off and under light panel thing and it looks like the front drivers side wing too!

help

[alanmcg]

Old thread I know.. but my 2 pence after googling across it.

I've had the bunny hopping, engine light and loss of power symptoms with the 1.4 petrol (1998 version). These are nasty but once traced shouldn't be expensive to resolve, just don't let them carry on or else they can ruin your catalytic converter. First thing to do is to make sure that the car is fully serviced, new filters & new spark plugs. Not expensive and should be done yearly. The 1.4s had a few different ECUs, IIRC Haynes mentions two key variants with differences in injection management, sensors, etc.

Get a Haynes Manual - this will give you a rough idea of how to remove things and what you're looking at. Get an error code reader (£40 or less for a basic one), this will spot any codes which show up and could very quickly identify the issue. The problem is that codes won't always show up, or stay stored, it is only if a sensor is totally screwed and the control unit turns over to its backup settings (with the accompanying loss of power & engine light & sometimes cutting out) that you'll get the codes stored. You'll also loss em if the car loses power (disconnected battery, surge during a jump start, etc). Nasty fueling problem causes:

- The Lambda or O2 sensor, a sensitive little bugger that sits in the exhaust manifold on the front of the engine, dodgy fuel tends to bugger this up. About £50 off eBay, apparently they can sometimes be cleaned, but a new one is probably wise. Shouldn't be a problem to fit.

- Idle control valve or stepper motor, £30 off eBay, common problem, results in lumpy idling, stalling, etc. Easy to fit, plastic part that screws onto the throttle body.

- (inlet) Manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor, primary issue with my car, another simple plastic part that screws onto the throttle body. Again about £30 on eBay.

Don't mess with the idle speed, you'll just confuse matters and waste fuel that way. Consider adjusting the throttle cable/making sure it isn't stopping the stepper motor from kicking in properly at idle.

[dingaling1983]

does anyone now if a gear box of a xsi 2.0 16valve will go on my xsi 2.0 8 valve

[wazi]

Originally Posted by dingaling1983

does anyone now if a gear box of a xsi 2.0 16valve will go on my xsi 2.0 8 valve

get soem number from the 16 valave one and compare them

[al1989]

the bunny hopping could be caused by a worn out coil, distributer(dizy( could be out of time with the rest of the engine)) or HT leads . low revs poor spark and miss fires ect high revs good spark no problems
for the headlight try a web site called 'breakersyard.com' its great for cheap parts and ypu get fast delivery.