Knight Rider CWC

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Let me give you a little background story on Knight Rider CWC. Knight Rider is referring to the old show Knight Rider with the car call K.I.T.T
The case was started as a school project that I can do anything I want as long as I can relate it back to design process so I grasped this chance to mod and get marks.

The case will be all black panels, candy red chassis and peripherals accented with candy red. My original idea called for a tail pipe out the side of the case. But I am scraping that. I am going to do a nice window.

So you might be asking what CWC mean. CWC is a project that was started for school this year, and basically designed my own water cooling system. Other then the pump it was suppose to be custom. I started design on the water block and kind of came to a road block when I needed it CNCed. I was also suppose to make a custom res, and in line water filter. But now I am going to stick to getting the water block done on a drill press. Although recently a few people have approached me to CNC it for me but they have been a little slow on replying back.

This summer I pledged to finish off Knight Rider case cause last June was one year since it was started. Also I had CWC in my hand and I was like what the hek why not combine the two. So now you got Knight Rider CWC case mod.
BTW CWC=Custom Water Cooling

Case Mod Gods seem to be the heart of many great mods so I present with no farther ado

Knight Rider CWC Project Work Log

Enjoy and please comment it will only make my project only better when I get advise from veterans. But do not think I am a modding noob.

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I got the camera again

Here I go again.

Here she is, under UV light.





For some reason, again there is crap in my water. I think its crap or might just be foaming up of the water as it gettes air rated. That swiftech stuff made my water kinda foam up. BTW Guy red dye and swiftech addtive dont mix. I added the red dye stuff and still the water is UV green. I didn't know the swiftech stuff had UV dye in it.



This bad boy will be mounted some were for easy acces later.


Test PSU.


As you can see still need to get a screw and nut that are long enough go through the Rad, but that are still thin.

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Now to talk a little about the rad. I was planing on putting the rad in the front of the case and now I choose to put it, on the top. Under this air cleaner cover from early 90's Ford Truck.





The air cleaner cover has dual 80mm holes. Perfect for a nice cycder ling res's or two 80mm fans.


It going to be sitting on this panle, why not mount the rad here any way.

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Here are some more stuff that I am working for this case.


HDD mounted in PSU box and were PSU use to go.



Remember the side panle I was working on. Well for the LAN I shot it with a coat of black and toke it. But as soon as I got back I started to sand. I stoped though. Will be back at the Bondo thing soon.


This is a plexi glass pump cover I am designing. Not sure to use it or not. Also if you can see, because of all the flame talk lately here at wizd forums I have drawen out a nice set of flames that I will cut out if I get a nice scroll saw with super thin blade.

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Today I did more some more marking-up and taping-up.


Like I told you the Air cleaner cover is going on top of the top panle as a rad shround.

Here it is all clamped down.



Now time for marking.




The places I missed because of the clamps I used a ruler to finish.


You can see that there is a 2cm difference from the edge of the cover to the inside of the cover space.


Nice and marked up. Marquee Mods Rules!


Time to game for a while.

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Well back to modding now.

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I am back at it guys. Today I am cutting the top panle. This is were the air cleaner cover will go and the the rad also. The air cleaner cover will act like a shroud for the rad also.

My tools and work area



Modding is FUN! Sparks are a moodder's shadow, sparks are a modder's inner fire, sparks are the reason we mod, we are modders, we are flames, but together we are a blazing fire.




Getting up and close with the sparks m8s.
Really close.




Just when you think you can finish the cutting with one blade the blade gets smaller and smaller.


I thought I was finished cutting then this. Hanging by a thread.


Now time to grrind down the sides.
I used the metal blade first then the stone sander.


All done for now.

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Modder and daily things.

TV and modding tools go together well.

Wolds first TV remote and dremel


Fixing switchs with dremel. The only tool you will ever need as a modder..


Trying to type with dremel. Don't need fingure dremel does it all with more then 50,000 tips.


Modder.


I also bought some stuff to start the Knight Rider Lights.

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Ok some more work was done. It was very small but work was still done.

I lined up the holes and started to drill.

This is the mock-up. Just showing the massive amount of air flow.




Tools needed to make a perfect hole. Hammer, drill bit, sharp object (nail will do), and clamps. I only used one clamp when marking the drill spot. After marking it, make sure to make it dented with a starter punch (sharp object) so that the drill bits catchs. I like to slowly drill for a nice clean drill hole.



Mr.Hammer and sharp object. I dont recoumed using dremel bits thoug.


The right drill bit for the right hole.




All done drilling

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All layed out waiting for the dremel. This brought to you by Marquee Mods, your future source of modding products.


Damn I am down to the last few mm of the blade. At least these real dremel blades last longer then the stuiped mastercraft blades.


Since I was low I started cutting the hard to reach area the curves.



This is the difference betwean the three blades I have. The super small one is a used dremel blade.



Grinding time now

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Toke a break to enjoy the out doors.

Now time to drill the holes. I used a broken fan and carfuly alined the holes and put presure on the fan to keep it in place and drill the holes.



All done.



Here is the worlds first 2" mid tower frame. LOL

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Today I broke out the bondo and worked on the Chassis. There were a few holes that needed to be filled. Also there are some areas that are shallow and need to be filled.

Here are the two brother before bondo.


Areas that will need to be watched












On the first layer I put allot of bondo. Its because I am going to sand it with a machine so I was a little muddled and excusive

BTW this is what happens to $2000 Cisco router when its gets obsolete.

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Ok to day was sanding day. I was also suppost to put anther layer of bondo but I was to lazy. School work lately has been killing me.

Well any way here is todays work.

Dress right guys. In Canada it has started to snow. The snow anit keeping on the ground but its could.



Tools







When I was finished areas that I will need more bondo work later.

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Today I went out and got a cheap rivetor, some rivets and some plexi glass.

Plexi glass is .220" 24 x 12



Some of the plexi will be used for the side window which I hope to etch, but also for the pump cover.


You know what this means Starbuck. It means I can make you one 1250 pump cover too.

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Bondo Time




Front Bezel design



Switch mock-up.





Now back to BF2

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Ok guys today was big day. I tried drilling the copper. it worked but not as well as I wanted. I released that the copper block were not big enough to have 3 barbs like I intened so I am changing my design to a 2 barb block. Also released that the the mistake I made while drilling are not that bad and work well when water was sprayed on.








I also worked on the chassis. I put the putty on. I also started to prime the top panle. When I started priming, I then wanted to mod my MX 1000 again. I wanted to paint it like a red. A candy red, or a dark deep metalic red. So I started to take apart my MX1000, and then wanted the keyboard rist rest painted the same as the mouse too. So I to that sanded with 240 using sander, then 320 wet sanding by hand.























I also filed down the copper block and sanded it with 240. Looks better now.