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About LinkBacksHaving just bought a WD cavier blue 1tb hdd thinking it would be reliable i was wondering which drives are both good performers for pc gaming and also very reliable. Is it better to buy higher capacity drives?
Having just bought a WD cavier blue 1tb hdd thinking it would be reliable i was wondering which drives are both good performers for pc gaming and also very reliable. Is it better to buy higher capacity drives?
I would say not really.
Personally in the past I had bad/dead drives only from Seagate.
As of this Monday I been delivered a dead Toshiba 2TB to my big surprise.
No other Hitachi or Toshiba dead before with me (the Hitachi drives in my NAS done around 16500 on power hours).
I would say if you value your data: backup-backup-backup !!! Or some SSDs (Crucial, Samsung or Plextor for value, Intel or Pro class if you have cash to spare).
If you have enough space and a bit extra money, buy two used (but good and tested of course) drives and just backup one to the another.
Otherwise for gaming and performance WD Black with 5 years of warranty (longer warranty) or SSHD drives (better performance).
The WD blue is about as good as it gets, so if you had one fail that is bad luck.
All drives have a chance of failing, but sounds like you want to know how to help your luck. The rules I go by:
1/ Buy something with a decent warranty. WD blue is pretty good, WD Black is I think the only consumer one with 5yr atm.
2/ Small and big capacity drives tend to be the same inside, except big ones have more platters and more heads generating more heat so more to go wrong.
3/ Be really careful putting the drive in. It is a finely engineered bit of kit.
I'd agree with all bar the last one - the last HDD I looked at the label on was rated for some ridiculous G shock (I want to say 500G but that might be made up)Originally Posted by DanceswithUnix
Generally they're mechanical things, they fail, and are probably the least reliable (and potentially most disastrous) component to fail in a modern computer. I'm not convinced SSDs are any better, they're more physically robust but they still die.
Realistically a decent backup strategy is the only way to protect yourself, but you need to decide whether cost, uptime or data integrity is the most important thing. I'd say two cheaper drives (a pair of 2TB reds looks about the same price as a black) are likely to give you better uptime and data integrity than a single expensive one. Although obviously the warranty is shorter, the chances of both failing simultaneously (other than a manufacturing fault) are lower
Good advice. I've always upgraded before my hdd failed so was a surprise to me to have one fail so soon. Luckily my sky drive backed up all my important stuff. I bought a samsung sdd and now I think I'll go for a small WD red and maybe a big green drive for security.
If the data on the drives is important to you, back it up. Herulach is right, it's the only way to protect yourself. Otherwise, assume that sooner or later, a drive will fail and you'll lose some or all of what's on it.
Perhaps consider, at a minimum, an external HD and sync important data from drives in the PC to that external drive. Or to cloud backup if you trust it, which personally, I don't. But that's your call.
Ir's always a balance though, with the value of the data on one side, and the cost, inconvenience and nuisance of backing up on the other.
Last drive I bought was a WD Black 2.5in which is rated at 350G operating shock, 1000G non-operating. That sounds really high, and certainly I couldn't shake a drive that hard (my hand would probably fall off). But if you fumble it during installation, then you are probably bashing into the edge of the metal which isn't going to give. So the drive is decelerating in a really short distance of a fraction of a mm. In fact in that sort of collision it is probably better to say it isn't decelerating at all, it is doing a momentum transfer impulse.
Hard drive makers know about these problems since Quantum worked it out decades ago. Still, hitting delicate objects is never going to help, so that time between unwrapping a drive and getting it in the protection of all that surrounding crumple zone we call a PC case I tend to be very careful.
I wonder if during the operation long term exposure to 350G would bend the platters or how they would look like while being non-operational under 1000G :-D I think manufacturers state the time period as for how long can your drive be under those conditions.
2ms of half sinusoidal wave movement with the 1000G at the peak. A tricky manoeuvre, perhaps some karate training would help
I must be one of the lucky ones then with my Seagate lasting 5 years without any problems...
Wonder how many power ups and power on hours are recorded by your SMART...
There are plenty of lucky ones, I'm sure they are in the majority. It just really sucks to be one of the unlucky ones, re-installing your OS is a faff that you usually don't need.
That's bad luck WD Blue is probably the most reliable HDD.
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