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Thread: Important: ABIT AW9DMAX " A mod Guide"

  1. #1
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    • gilgamesh's system
      • Motherboard:
      • abit IP35 PRo
      • CPU:
      • 8500 wolfdale
      • Memory:
      • 2x2 gigs (4 gigs) of OCZ REAPER X Ram
      • Storage:
      • 500GIG WD SATA 2
      • Graphics card(s):
      • Vvikoo 8800GT (1GIG MAX)
      • PSU:
      • Gigabyte ODIN 1200W
      • Case:
      • Mountain MODS U2 UFO CASE original top WATER COOLED TO HELL!!
      • Monitor(s):
      • cibox 22"WD LCD

    Important: ABIT AW9DMAX " A mod Guide"

    Before I startthe guide, this guide is not a like-for-like test as when re-installing the northbridge the studs flew off with thier prings to parts unknonw in my house, so I had to go with the water-cooled northbridge (with no liquid installed)
    until I find some or ABIT can kindly provide me with the replacement northbridge studs and springs please.

    Comments: The AW9D MAX is a very versitile motherboard and allows for a great deal of modification. The AW9D MAX is a great motherboard but their are a number of issues that CAN be improved. The most significant factor arethest two issues.

    Abit have sprayed the BOTTOM of the heatsinks black to match the motherboard. In theory is a small error as the paint itsself will act as an insulator rather than a conductor. Secondly the brown rubber-like substance that is used does not tansfer heat as efficiently as it should, so by addressing these two issues can make a eight degree temperature diffiernce.

    Before the guide, please note these following isses, take the usual anti-static precautions (needless to say) and TAKE YOUR TIME! No doubt a better job can be done on the northbridge block than I did, however the results are worth it even with my modest job.

    The before and after ambient room temps were set at 23.5 ( The room where I did the modifications was maintined at this temp through-out the 'mod' and NO other electronic equipment apart from the computer was switched on to help maintain this temp)

    The guide:

    Tools you need, needle-nosed pliers, flat bladed screwdriver a couple of sheets of fine grade sand paper (idealy a few sheets of course sand paper aswell), Isypropol alcohol, a box of cotton bud cue tips, a self-sealing bag or surgical gloves and a tube or Artic Silver 5 compound.

    Assuming your motherboard is disconnected and out of the case. Use the pair of needle-nosed pliers and squeeze the ends of the northbridge retraining studs togetherand pull out the studs carefully retaining the springs. Take off the abit logo on the top of the heat sink and carefully prize off the heatpipe.
    PULL off the brown-rubber like substance at the bottom of the block whihc should come away with no difficulty
    Using course sand paper, lay the sand-paper flat on a table and rub the bottom of the northbridge heatsink on the sand paper to strip of the paint underneath. Note I had to use a flat bladed screwdriver for this as I had no course sandpaper. If you do have the sand paper repeat the process with finer paper until you have a smooth almost mirror-like finish.
    Clean off any access dust from the heat sink and squeeze a SMALL amount of Artic Silver 5 compound on the bottom of a heatsink. Either waering a surgical glove , or in my case your finger in a self sealing bag smooth out the compound all over the bottom of the northbridge block. This prevents oils from your fingers/ hands from spoiling the compound and preventing it from doing its job.

    Next using Icypropol alcohol and a cotton bud cue-tip, dip the tip into the alcohol and GENTLY clean the northbridge core (which is a naked core). Until the core reflects in a mirror like way. Once the alcohol as evaporated put small AMOUNT OF AS5 on the core itsself (about the size of a grain of rice)
    DO NOT put the brown rubber like substance back underneath the block as this whole mod replaces this. Next carefully replace the block inserting the retaining studs (lol be careful as mine sprang off into parts unknown).

    Next do the same for the heatsinks near the power regulators around the CPU. Note: I have yet to do the mod for the massive (four stud) heatsink just above the CPU and the southbridge.

    You should now experience a much lower system temp reading in the BIOS.

    NOTE as the studs flew off for my default northbridge block I could not do a real like-for like test so the best I could do is put my northbridge water-block on BUT NOT fill it with liquid so in essence the block is just a passive heatsink like the default.

    Before the mod the defualt temp of the system at an ambient room temp of 23.5 was 33 to 34c on idle AFTER the mod my temps on idle were 26-28C! A massive difference I would say!

    Below is a link the the photos with a screenshot of the bios (please ignore the cpu temps as they are very high as there was no liquid inside of the tubes, to best replicate the test as best as I can.

    http://uk.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/chr.../ph//my_photos

    I hope this helps
    In the immortal words of Ali-G "Is it cos I is an Overclocker?"

  2. #2
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    • d3fiant's system
      • Motherboard:
      • GB X58A-UDR3 FB11
      • CPU:
      • Core i7 950
      • Memory:
      • Corsair 12GB DDR3 1600
      • Storage:
      • 2x 120GB OCZ Agility SSD + 500GB SP F3
      • Graphics card(s):
      • GB Windforce GTX670 2GB
      • PSU:
      • 850W Akasa
      • Case:
      • Fractal R3
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 7 x64 HP Retail
      • Monitor(s):
      • 24" 1920x1080 Iiyama LED
      • Internet:
      • 60MB VM
    sounds like a nice setup, roughly how much did the h2o setup cost, also does the lack of airflow around the PWM cooling not have a knockon effect. Thinking of doing something similar to my AB9 Pro

  3. #3
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    • gilgamesh's system
      • Motherboard:
      • abit IP35 PRo
      • CPU:
      • 8500 wolfdale
      • Memory:
      • 2x2 gigs (4 gigs) of OCZ REAPER X Ram
      • Storage:
      • 500GIG WD SATA 2
      • Graphics card(s):
      • Vvikoo 8800GT (1GIG MAX)
      • PSU:
      • Gigabyte ODIN 1200W
      • Case:
      • Mountain MODS U2 UFO CASE original top WATER COOLED TO HELL!!
      • Monitor(s):
      • cibox 22"WD LCD

    MY H20 setup

    Quote Originally Posted by d3fiant View Post
    sounds like a nice setup, roughly how much did the h2o setup cost, also does the lack of airflow around the PWM cooling not have a knockon effect. Thinking of doing something similar to my AB9 Pro
    TO tell you the truth, much of the spec of a H20 system has to do with the design of the case (which is why I chose my case) For example

    I will give you the specs fo my system and the reasons why I chose those parts)

    LIAN-LI V2000B+ Case (lots of room for upgrades BRILLIANT for w/c setups, can use a THERMOCHILL PA160 rad with NO case modiciations)

    THermochill PA160 RAD (BEST single 120mm fan using rad on the market NOTHING can touch it, plus I know the owners of the company Note therochill have been acknowledged as the best performing rads inthe world)
    NOTE PA160 rad and can dissapate upto half a kilowatt of heat.

    FAN= you have a choice here most pro -overclockers or w/cers use NExus Nexus have a CFM of 36.4 and a DB of 22 and the XUrillian have a CFM of 65CFM nad DB of 40

    cpu bLOCK Swiftech APOGEE or STORM IMPORTANT NOTE: (if you plan on COOLING anything else other than the CPU DO NOT PURCHASE THE STORM !! as the liquid has to pass through the storms jets and so slows the flow rate down I.E higher TEMPS. The apogee does not suffer from the same error even though the apogee is much cheaper) to sum up Storm cool CPU ONLY, Apogee if you want to cool n/b and or GPU! LOL I found out this to my cost so I went back to the APOGEE which does a much better job.

    Northbridge Block You need the Dangerden MAZE 4 Northbridge block, I have this and it fits ABIT boards a treat!

    EK 7900GT GPU W/C Block £20 cheaper than the dangerden one and performs just as good.

    PUMP you can have a choice here, the best pumps to go for arethese, THE Dangerden DDC ultra with the aplhacool explitop or the Dengerden DDC5 Vario (both perform well and are quiet to boot)

    RES Degerden 5/15" Bay res cheap and its dangerden

    Tubing

    Muskclear 7/16" tubing. Using this and using the hot water expand and then shrink onto the half inch barb trick you will have no need for hose clamps therefore saving a little money.

    Brbs, if you choose teh DDC ultra pump you will need (ALL SIZES ARE BRITISH) dangerden g1/4 thread to Half inch ID HIGH FLOW barbs for the pump and res . If using the DD DDV5 vario you just need these for the res. For the RAD you need 3/18" nickel BSP thread to HALF INCH ID barbs.

    TOTAL COST (NOT INcluding case) £290 this cools the CPU, Northbridge and 1X GPU. Lack of airflow around the PWM with my motherboard I dont have that problem on my motherboard. iFyou feel differnt feel free just to put a 120mm nexus fan around there.

    Glad to help

    Gilgamesh
    In the immortal words of Ali-G "Is it cos I is an Overclocker?"

  4. #4
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    • gilgamesh's system
      • Motherboard:
      • abit IP35 PRo
      • CPU:
      • 8500 wolfdale
      • Memory:
      • 2x2 gigs (4 gigs) of OCZ REAPER X Ram
      • Storage:
      • 500GIG WD SATA 2
      • Graphics card(s):
      • Vvikoo 8800GT (1GIG MAX)
      • PSU:
      • Gigabyte ODIN 1200W
      • Case:
      • Mountain MODS U2 UFO CASE original top WATER COOLED TO HELL!!
      • Monitor(s):
      • cibox 22"WD LCD
    UPDATE:
    for modders thinknig of upgrading the aw9d max via the mod guide. It is a myth that the heatsinks MUST be 100 % flat see waht cooling myths exposed on the forums of www.over-clock.co.uk. You can full any valleys of the heatsink with Artic Silver 5 and THEN smooth it out

    cheers

    Gilgamesh
    In the immortal words of Ali-G "Is it cos I is an Overclocker?"

  5. #5
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    The PWN sinks on these boards do nothing. Better off loosing them. The springs are weak and the sinks do a crap job. The PWN mosfets don't get that hot anyway, even pumping a fair bit of voltage into the CPU.
    As for the large sink, again uses the same crappy brown "rubber" sheet as the NB/mosfet sinks do. Reallistically you don't need the heatsink on these either. However, because the NB sink is basically a flat piece of metal connected via heatpipe to the rear heatsink it is required. That is unless you choose to switch to water/other cooling.
    .:. X2 @ 2.9 .:. E6600 L628 @ 4.73 .:. AB9 @ 512 FSB .:. E6300 @ 100% OC Stable

  6. #6
    Senior Member
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    • gilgamesh's system
      • Motherboard:
      • abit IP35 PRo
      • CPU:
      • 8500 wolfdale
      • Memory:
      • 2x2 gigs (4 gigs) of OCZ REAPER X Ram
      • Storage:
      • 500GIG WD SATA 2
      • Graphics card(s):
      • Vvikoo 8800GT (1GIG MAX)
      • PSU:
      • Gigabyte ODIN 1200W
      • Case:
      • Mountain MODS U2 UFO CASE original top WATER COOLED TO HELL!!
      • Monitor(s):
      • cibox 22"WD LCD
    Quote Originally Posted by Highland3r View Post
    The PWN sinks on these boards do nothing. Better off loosing them. The springs are weak and the sinks do a crap job. The PWN mosfets don't get that hot anyway, even pumping a fair bit of voltage into the CPU.
    As for the large sink, again uses the same crappy brown "rubber" sheet as the NB/mosfet sinks do. Reallistically you don't need the heatsink on these either. However, because the NB sink is basically a flat piece of metal connected via heatpipe to the rear heatsink it is required. That is unless you choose to switch to water/other cooling.

    Ofcourse but you forget that some overclockers oc using the standard heatsinks on the board, and spraying the underside with paint defeats the object of the heatsink in the first instance. The whole mod guide is for those whom use the STOCK heatsinks. Like I said by taking care and removing the crappy brown sheet and using as5 renders and 8 degree difference. Granted that most of this is by modding the n/b heatsink. I changed the PWMS for peace of mind more than anything else, however there will be SOME heat in those modules stands to reason passing an eletric current through a semi-condoctor always produces heat. SO stands to reason why the heat sinks are there.

    I have no idea why abit chose this rubber substance instead of a decent thermal compound. Personaly I would put copper heatsinks on the northbridge etc..

    Gilgamesh
    In the immortal words of Ali-G "Is it cos I is an Overclocker?"

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