Quiet 40mm fan for Abit IN9 32X-MAX

[Flanno]

After much searching I found a fan that is very quiet and bought 2 of them

It's a Rasurbo 40mm 3pin fan rated at 19dba and does 4300rpm.
http://www.quietpc.com/gb-en-gbp/products/40mmfans

It's a hell of a lot quieter then the Akasa AK-160 BL-S 40mm Blue LED Fan
which while it does 5000rpm is an unnacceptable 23.97db so is at least twice as loud.

Just thought people might be interested.

[gilgamesh]

After much searching I found a fan that is very quiet and bought 2 of them

It's a Rasurbo 40mm 3pin fan rated at 19dba and does 4300rpm.
http://www.quietpc.com/gb-en-gbp/products/40mmfans

It's a hell of a lot quieter then the Akasa AK-160 BL-S 40mm Blue LED Fan
which while it does 5000rpm is an unnacceptable 23.97db so is at least twice as loud.

Just thought people might be interested.

Nice one mate

I hope one of those fans is going on that southbridge, as you will certainly need it. If you just have a fan on the northbridge you will find that it does not make any difference as the heat from both north/southbridge is far too much for the fan to dissapate.

If I were you try and geta fan on both of them.

Enjoy mate

Gilgamesh

[Flanno]

Thanks for the tip.
Not sure if there will be enough room to fit it on the SB over the G80 pcb overhanging it. But doesn't the heatpipe conduct the heat from the southbridge towards the northbridge and then out to the heatsink near the back of the case ? Or have I my south and north the wrong way around
Anyway, I will try to get the 2nd fan on.

Also, my NB only gets warm not roasting to the touch. My quad while not overclocked (waiting for new bios with unlocked multiplier) with the Tuniq is idling in mid 40's, and only orthos brings the cores close to 70. Gaming it rarely hits 60. This is according to CoreTemp. Using uGuru knock 10 degrees off. My case temps are in low to mid 30's. And my pwm temps (according to uguru) are always in the very low 60's and I have never seen them go over 70This is in a very warm room with radiator on full 24/7. (stuck at home with flu). Are these temps reasonable in your book ?

[Johnny Bravo]

Also, my NB only gets warm not roasting to the touch. My quad while not overclocked (waiting for new bios with unlocked multiplier) with the Tuniq is idling in mid 40's, and only orthos brings the cores close to 70. Gaming it rarely hits 60. This is according to CoreTemp. Using uGuru knock 10 degrees off. My case temps are in low to mid 30's. And my pwm temps (according to uguru) are always in the very low 60's and I have never seen them go over 70This is in a very warm room with radiator on full 24/7. (stuck at home with flu). Are these temps reasonable in your book ?

I concur on the coretemp vs uGuru, a 10o discrepancy exists. Having remounted my PWM heatsink I find that even at 1.6volts on the x6800 my temps for the PWM are around 60-70oC I would say that this aligns well with a stock Quadcore as you'll be pulling alot more current for a given voltage.

[gilgamesh]

Thanks for the tip.
Not sure if there will be enough room to fit it on the SB over the G80 pcb overhanging it. But doesn't the heatpipe conduct the heat from the southbridge towards the northbridge and then out to the heatsink near the back of the case ? Or have I my south and north the wrong way around
Anyway, I will try to get the 2nd fan on.

Also, my NB only gets warm not roasting to the touch. My quad while not overclocked (waiting for new bios with unlocked multiplier) with the Tuniq is idling in mid 40's, and only orthos brings the cores close to 70. Gaming it rarely hits 60. This is according to CoreTemp. Using uGuru knock 10 degrees off. My case temps are in low to mid 30's. And my pwm temps (according to uguru) are always in the very low 60's and I have never seen them go over 70This is in a very warm room with radiator on full 24/7. (stuck at home with flu). Are these temps reasonable in your book ?

Heatpipe issue

THi is the problem I have found with the heatpipes on this board.

Firstly You are correct that the heatpipe should transfer the ehat away from the southbridge. However the reason why I did my mod guide is beceause of a problem (a minor one). Although the heat is being taken away from the southbridge it is dumping this heat onto the northbridge therefore the northbridge is getting hotter than it should be. This is why the 40mm fan on the northbridge ONLY does not make any differnce at all. There should ONLY be a heatpipe on the north to the PWM'S You will also find that the southbridge is doing alot more work now and is actually HOTTER than the northbridge, after 30 mins of use if you put your finger on this heatsink you will find that i will burn your finger" This is why I butchered my lovely board to find out this problem.

I have some test results for you on the temp of the northbridge before and after modification, if this helps you at all

ambient temps on both times is 18.5c i.e room temps)

Northbridge WITH a 40mm fan before modding 43 degrees on full load 41 to 42 on Idle after 30 mins (on cold boot 32c)
CPU temps WITH water Cooling Full load 29c to 30 degrees c IDLE 27 to 28 on cold boot 23 to 26c

AFTER modification I.E taking OUT the heatpipe between the south and northbridge and replacing the heatsink on the southbridge via a COPPER waterblock!
Northbridge on full load with 40mm 36 degrees on full load 34 on idle and 28 to 29 on a cold bootup
CPU temps Full load where the same.


As for the PWM'S 58 degrees on full load without a 120mm fan there
with a 120mm placed nearby PWM'S were 45 degrees on full load

Anything else you need mate?

cheeers

Gilgamesh

[Flanno]

Cheers mate. That is interesting info. Will try the 40mm fan on the SB.
To be honest I am not a huge overclocker like yourself. I bought this board for stability and to be able to run SLI as my EVGA gave me a terrible time. Would have kept my Intel Bad Axe 2 only for I wanted SLI. I will be happy if I run my quad at 2.93ghz by just upping the multiplier. Should not add to much extra heat I think. And that is why I want the bios fixed. Alas my Bad Axe 2 ran it at 3.3ghz and ran it about the same temp underload (according to CoreTemp) as the Quad at stock on the Abit. And when idle it ran it about 10 degrees cooler then the abit (according to CoreTemp). Come to think of it Intel implemented EIST properly on their board and my multiplier dropped to 6x and my vcore dropped along with my cpu speed (1.6ghz), which explains the low idle temps. And I am just after realising this does not work at all on the Abit board despite it being turned on in the bios. My IN9 board always runs the quad at 2.66ghz. Should it not be running it at 1.66ghz if EIST is working ?? Another bug perhaps in the bios !!

As it stands now, even without the 40mm fan on the NB (and none on the SB), I have gamed at stock settings (except gpu's overclocked to 650/2000 and memory unlinked at 1066,4,4,4,12,2T) for over 8 hours non stop and never saw my cpu pass 60, and my pwms seems fine too. As you say the SB is probably roasting away. But heh..if the board blows from the SB overheating and Abit only recommend cooling the NB to dissipate heat more quickly - then that is what warranty is for I guess

Right now I think I am reasonably well ventillated....I am using an Akasa Mirage case. Have a 120mm Noctua 1200rpm fan as intake, and another on the Akasa thermal sidepanel, and a 3rd as an rear exhaust. Runining one of the better air coolers (Tuniq) though it is a tight fit and I probably need a thinner layer of AC5. May step up to a basic water cooling or TEC at some point. Will definitely try the fan on the SB anyway.

Thanks

[BUFF]

Kustom also stock that fan
http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/acatalog/info_2514.html

[gilgamesh]

Cheers mate. That is interesting info. Will try the 40mm fan on the SB.
To be honest I am not a huge overclocker like yourself. I bought this board for stability and to be able to run SLI as my EVGA gave me a terrible time. Would have kept my Intel Bad Axe 2 only for I wanted SLI. I will be happy if I run my quad at 2.93ghz by just upping the multiplier. Should not add to much extra heat I think. And that is why I want the bios fixed. Alas my Bad Axe 2 ran it at 3.3ghz and ran it about the same temp underload (according to CoreTemp) as the Quad at stock on the Abit. And when idle it ran it about 10 degrees cooler then the abit (according to CoreTemp). Come to think of it Intel implemented EIST properly on their board and my multiplier dropped to 6x and my vcore dropped along with my cpu speed (1.6ghz), which explains the low idle temps. And I am just after realising this does not work at all on the Abit board despite it being turned on in the bios. My IN9 board always runs the quad at 2.66ghz. Should it not be running it at 1.66ghz if EIST is working ?? Another bug perhaps in the bios !!

As it stands now, even without the 40mm fan on the NB (and none on the SB), I have gamed at stock settings (except gpu's overclocked to 650/2000 and memory unlinked at 1066,4,4,4,12,2T) for over 8 hours non stop and never saw my cpu pass 60, and my pwms seems fine too. As you say the SB is probably roasting away. But heh..if the board blows from the SB overheating and Abit only recommend cooling the NB to dissipate heat more quickly - then that is what warranty is for I guess

Right now I think I am reasonably well ventillated....I am using an Akasa Mirage case. Have a 120mm Noctua 1200rpm fan as intake, and another on the Akasa thermal sidepanel, and a 3rd as an rear exhaust. Runining one of the better air coolers (Tuniq) though it is a tight fit and I probably need a thinner layer of AC5. May step up to a basic water cooling or TEC at some point. Will definitely try the fan on the SB anyway.

Thanks

HMM did you say your cpu temps were 60c? thats a little hot for the cpu, they say the cpu fails at 65c. Forgive me im not too much up on quad core atthe moment, I know they run hotter but at 60c? that sounds a little dangerous to me! As for tec coolers I wouldnt bother if I were you, they jsut cool the CPU down and with this motherboard you need to cool both the north and southbridge down.

Water cooling is the way to go. You need to get a Thermochill PA 120.2 (AT LEAST) radiator, how ever if you do not fancy butchering your case and ahve the space for a 120mm fan you can use a PA 160 radiator. For this motherboard you will need two 6800 chipset waterblocks, dangerden do them.
The Swiftech Apogee GT waterblock will be out in the UK very soon.

As for tec coolers remember you need a seperate PSU to get the most out ofthem and dotn forget that will also be dumping heat inside of you case. This will only cool the CPU down but not the north or southbridge.

Links for the rads and blocks

http://store.over-clock.com/ThermoChill.html
http://store.over-clock.com/Pumps___Accessories.html
http://store.over-clock.com/Chipset_Blocks.html

have a good one mate

Gilgamesh

[Flanno]

Sorry mate but the internal temp readout of core temp is always higher then the like of abit guru. 60 degrees is perfectly acceptable core temp readout even on a dual core. An X6800 has a cpu tjunct of 85 degrees and on the best aircooling (tuniq, xp-120, scythe) with Intel speedstep working can maintain low 30's idle but inevitably when running Orthos will hit 60+. So perfectly safe. The QX6700 quad has a Tjunct of 100 degrees so is safe up until that point (for what duration noone knows). And can easily hit 70 or 80 running Orthos. Just look on any of the forums with people running orthos and prime and on air and you will see what I mean.

Anyone who is running on air will hit 60 degrees plus in Orthos with either of these cpu's and if they tell you they don't they either live in Alaska or are lying. It's all the bs'ng that actually annoys the hell out of me. At least 2 people on other forums I know with similar rig to mine and similar ambient temps told me their quads overclocked never go over 50 in Orthos. Complete ****e. And then there are the fan boys who go on about it being dangerous to go over 50 degrees. More ****e. Intel made these cpu' to take a lot of punishment. Otherwise Dell would not be offering 3 year warranties on air cooled quads, and your average Joe is not going to able to watercool. But it's like cars or binge drinking. Ask someone and they tell you their fiesta can do 140mph or they drink 17 pints the weekend. Most people are bull****ters.

I may look at watercooling down the road all the same

[gilgamesh]

Sorry mate but the internal temp readout of core temp is always higher then the like of abit guru. 60 degrees is perfectly acceptable core temp readout even on a dual core. An X6800 has a cpu tjunct of 85 degrees and on the best aircooling (tuniq, xp-120, scythe) with Intel speedstep working can maintain low 30's idle but inevitably when running Orthos will hit 60+. So perfectly safe. The QX6700 quad has a Tjunct of 100 degrees so is safe up until that point (for what duration noone knows). And can easily hit 70 or 80 running Orthos. Just look on any of the forums with people running orthos and prime and on air and you will see what I mean.

Anyone who is running on air will hit 60 degrees plus in Orthos with either of these cpu's and if they tell you they don't they either live in Alaska or are lying. It's all the bs'ng that actually annoys the hell out of me. At least 2 people on other forums I know with similar rig to mine and similar ambient temps told me their quads overclocked never go over 50 in Orthos. Complete ****e. And then there are the fan boys who go on about it being dangerous to go over 50 degrees. More ****e. Intel made these cpu' to take a lot of punishment. Otherwise Dell would not be offering 3 year warranties on air cooled quads, and your average Joe is not going to able to watercool. But it's like cars or binge drinking. Ask someone and they tell you their fiesta can do 140mph or they drink 17 pints the weekend. Most people are bull****ters.

I may look at watercooling down the road all the same

Strange I hope wre talking about celcius and not farenheight? As I read an offical Intel guide somewhere about this and they recommend never to let the CPU go over 60c. hmm Im willing to be prooved wrong on this matter. As with water cooling the thing about water cooling is that it keeps the FULL LOAD temps VERY CLOSE to IDLE temps (depending on ambient room temps ofcourse)

gilgamesh

[Flanno]

It's C. Where is this guide ?
I work in the PC manufacturing business and I can guarantee you there is no such thing as a 60 degree limit. Don't you use CoreTemp ? It reads the correct temp of your cpu and compares it to the max value your cpu is qualified for. In the case of the quad it's 100 degrees and the X6800 it's 85 degrees. This is virtually the temp inside the cpu and not the temp other programs read (uguru, asus probe).

http://www.thecoolest.zerobrains.com...owitworks.html

"The temperature readings are very accurate as the data is collected from a Digital Thermal Sensor (or DTS) which is located in each individual processing core, near the hottest part. This sensor is digital, which means it doesn't rely on an external circuit located on the motherboard to report temperature, its value is stored in a special register in the processor so any software can access and read it. This eliminates any inaccuracy that can be caused by external motherboard circuits and sensors and then different types of programs trying to read those sensors"

Also - programs like Orthos or Prime while they stress the cpu to it's max, and it's rare enough in gaming it would go so high. It's more of a guide on what max temps your cpu can reach under 100% load to verify stability. Anyone who has used these programs with overclocked Core2Duo's or Quads on forums like harddforums, extremeoverclocking, and extremesystems will see there temps easily hit 60 and beyond on air. I don't know how many times I have seen posts like I got me a QX6700 and it runs at 36-45 idle according to eastune, mobo monitor, asus probe, uguru etc.. And then 5 mins. later they come back and post that Intel Tat or Core Temp shows it idling at 52-54 and hitting 71 with Orthos. Perfectly fine. The trick with the quad is not to overclock it too much as it's hitting 70 under 100% load. I found from past experience a combination of multiplier increase and fsb increase to around 3.2 or 3.3ghz only increased the load temps slightly. I can prime my IN9 with my quad at 3.0ghz (fastest I can go as Abit haven't bother their arse unlocking the multiplier upwards) for 24 hours, and it maxes just below 70.

[Johnny Bravo]

Strange I hope wre talking about celcius and not farenheight? As I read an offical Intel guide somewhere about this and they recommend never to let the CPU go over 60c. hmm Im willing to be prooved wrong on this matter. As with water cooling the thing about water cooling is that it keeps the FULL LOAD temps VERY CLOSE to IDLE temps (depending on ambient room temps ofcourse)

gilgamesh

Quad cores run very high temps. Air cooling is only feasible at stock voltages and speeds, any form of overclocking will require decent watercooling at the very least. There as several users with vapochill and mach II phase coolers who have killed the coolers when overclocking the Q6700 due to the massive heatload it produces.

[Flanno]

Maybe so. They must have been overclocking massively as quads are designed to take more heat then a core2duo to begin with. And while you cannot overclock them much I disagree with your statement that "any form" of overclocking will require decent watercooling. That is not true at all. I and many people I know have run quads at the following speeds with only a 5-6 degree increase in temp under load. *300 x 10 = 3ghz,320 x 10 = 3.2ghz,300 x 11 = 3.3ghz* All at stock vcore. Dell have also released a watec/tec cooling system for their XPS710 which comes preoverclocked to 3.2ghz or it could be 3.3ghz now, but this was tested extensively on air at that speed as well. If a cpu works within the manufacurers tolerances then it's not a problem for me.

[Johnny Bravo]

Maybe so. They must have been overclocking massively as quads are designed to take more heat then a core2duo to begin with. And while you cannot overclock them much I disagree with your statement that "any form" of overclocking will require decent watercooling. That is not true at all. I and many people I know have run quads at the following speeds with only a 5-6 degree increase in temp under load. *300 x 10 = 3ghz,320 x 10 = 3.2ghz,300 x 11 = 3.3ghz* All at stock vcore. Dell have also released a watec/tec cooling system for their XPS710 which comes preoverclocked to 3.2ghz or it could be 3.3ghz now, but this was tested extensively on air at that speed as well. If a cpu works within the manufacurers tolerances then it's not a problem for me.

I can accept that without an increase in vcore the temps will not really go up so much, though from what I have seen people have been struggling to get temperatures under control with even Tuniq Tower coolers. Many have found this cpu to be quite a handful in terms of thermal output when overclocking.
I should have worded my reply better, and for that I apologise.

I must stress this is second hand information, I myself have not tested a Q6700, and am going on what I had read.

[Flanno]

No worries mate. Apologies if I came accross as confrontational.
Just got a new car on Friday and am stuck in with the flu and it's staring at me out the bedroom window

But I agree, once you increase the vcore on that quad forget it. It runs at stock of 1.35v. Putting it past this can have a huge increase in temps. I am happy to use stock vcore and settle for 3.2 or 3.3ghz. Doesn't really get past 70 under Orthos and stays well under 60 in gaming. Unfortunately as the 680i chipset has an inherent issue with fsb's on quads I can't go higher then 300mhz. That's why I absolutely need the multplier to be fixed. Then I could run at 3.2 or even 3.3ghz no problem.

I am honestly scared of cutting up my case as I am pants at diy and can't really afford a decent water cooling setup right now. And as advised already TEC presents it's own disadvantages.

But I was thinking of buying this. A handy all in one ready to go water cooling system. It should run colder then the Tuniq, plus I hear the Laing pump is very decent.

http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/7508/43730ma0.jpg
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/6237/43731fc2.jpg


http://www.alphacool.de/product_info...ol-answer-iii-[laing-pro-agb-edition]-120-compact-12v.html

The only minus I can think of is the fan which is now cooling the rad would have to outake all the hot air from the gpu and hard drive area. (already have an intake for the hd and side intake for the gpu). So I might have to add a top blowhole to the case to channel some of that hot air. I have someone that can sort that for me no problem.

[BUFF]

Ihis is virtually the temp inside the cpu and not the temp other programs read (uguru, asus probe).

I think that you will find that uGuru reads from the same on-die sensor as Coretemp but displays it as if it was being read from an in-socket sensor (i.e. - 10C or so).
If you remember all the complaints about temps when on-die sensors came in most mobo mfrs then adjusted the reported temps - I had a DFI that reported the idle temp of my CPU as below ambient after a BIOS update (DFI admitted that they had adjusted the reported temps).