Had a minor heart attack this weekend

Fitted a nice new boost gauge since my old one was a bit on the big side, and it was silver/white faced. Since I went back to black dials, I wanted a smaller black boost gauge. Not a problem, spoke to Mark at Splitfire UK and picked one up the same evening. We fitted it and then took it out for a drive to make sure it was working...

OMFG! :eek:

Whereas before I was running 14psi, it's magically gone up to 16, spiking to 17! :eek:

So.. which one's telling the truth?


Luckily if it is running 16 psi it's not detting (good old Grp A carb and Optimax!) and I've been assured it's OK running at that sort of pressure. :)

Can you get hold of a gauge that has been calibrated... must be something kicking around where you work ;)
At least something (not car based) that could give you a baseline to work from?

A good indication that a guage is working resaonably well is to check it in 2 areas -

1. Run the car at idle. The boost guage should be around 10-12psi in VACUUM i.e. neg boost

2. Switch car off and make sure the needle shows 0



Failing that you need to use a compressor setup which you know is accurate to begin with....

My boost gauge is plumbed into the top of the carb so I don't get a negative reading on vacumn...

I guess I need to try someone elses gauge. :D

I'm thinking that the new gauge is correct, since I played around with my bleed valve a bit and it didn't seem to register on the old gauge. :)

Quote:

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Originally posted by Lowe
My boost gauge is plumbed into the top of the carb so I don't get a negative reading on vacumn...

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Is this the same with the pipe going to the ECU to tell it what boost is running ??


Bleed valves are the devils work :o ..... Na, only kiddin..... Its only a problem when the owner is an arse with it :)

Sounds good whatever it is :P

Don't post threads with topics like that! Scared me, nearly gave me a heart attack :)

Quote:

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Originally posted by Richie
Is this the same with the pipe going to the ECU to tell it what boost is running ??


Bleed valves are the devils work :o ..... Na, only kiddin..... Its only a problem when the owner is an arse with it :)

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That pipe will read vacumn, but it's not as accurate as the carb top. :)

I know the bleed valve is poo, but it's the only easy way of adjusting the boost. CBA with faffing with the acutator. :D

Tell me about it...... Spent ages adjusting the frikken actuator at one point :(

Quote:

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Originally posted by Lowe
That pipe will read vacumn, but it's not as accurate as the carb top. :)

I know the bleed valve is poo, but it's the only easy way of adjusting the boost. CBA with faffing with the acutator. :D

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go get a dawes ( bren) device from apex its much less prone to spiking than the bleed valve and only costs about 30 quid. I've got an adjustable actuator on mine but it looks like a pig to change ( not putting my hand near a hot t28 ! )

Quote:

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Originally posted by Moby-Dick
( not putting my hand near a hot t28 ! )

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Fondly remembers burning all the hair on his arms trying to adjust the actuator on a KKK-K16 :o

Problem is with a Dawes device, or similar ball and spring is that it puts a *lot* of strain on the actuator since they're not designed for on/off opperation.

Have a read of this.

http://www.rtoc.org/boards/thread.as...&TopicID=18849

most of the sxoc lot have one ( hence the name bren device as he is the main man at apex ;-) )
dont think I've seen ayone claim to have a failed actuator though !