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Thread: Cutting holes in 3mm aluminium case

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    Senior Member Ulti's Avatar
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    Cutting holes in 3mm aluminium case

    Hi Hexites,

    Not sure where to ask so decided to post here.

    If I got this Dremel, would it be powerful enough to cut through 3mm thick aluminium "smoothly"? I've never used a dremel or any rotary cutting tool before although I do have some DIY experience from GCSE DT from 3+ years ago where I got an A*!

    EDIT: I just measured the aluminium and it's actually 3mm! What I want to do is cut a hole for an SD card reader in the front of the case, and a hole for a low profile PCI-E card in the back of the case. What I'm concerned about is that the aluminium is painted black I assume, if I cut a hole in the front, won't it become silver where I cut it?

    I'm a student so I don't really want to spend £80 on a Dremel that I'll use perhaps once.

    Also, can I use the Dremel for polishing? I know how to hand polish (my method involves using 2500g sandpaper and then using a microfibre cloth + rubbing compound followed by micro fibre cloth + metal polish) but can the dremel speed up polishing to a mirror finish?
    Last edited by Ulti; 17-01-2012 at 11:33 PM.

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    Re: Cutting 5mm-10mm thick aluminium

    How much cutting?

    I certainly wouldn't use a dremel for cutting sheets of thick aluminium, small inch sized chunks maybe.

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  4. #3
    Pancake
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    Re: Cutting 5mm-10mm thick aluminium

    Yeah, cutting lines is a MASSIVE PAIN (Unless im just crap at it)

    I always use a Jigsaw

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    Re: Cutting 5mm-10mm thick aluminium

    Quote Originally Posted by Pancake View Post
    Yeah, cutting lines is a MASSIVE PAIN (Unless im just crap at it)

    I always use a Jigsaw
    This.

    5MM to 10MM of aluminium is better suited to a jigsaw with a suitable blade or maybe a circular saw. Make sure you have decent blades as el-cheapo ones can heat up quickly and start warping.

    I am not certain how good a multi-tool will handle metal sheeting of that thickness TBH.

    BTW,Ulti I would have got a higher end Dremel or probably a Proxxon if you want a general purpose multi-tool. From I have read Proxxon tend to have better motors and also have a decent resale value.

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    Re: Cutting 5mm-10mm thick aluminium

    hacksaw, then file, then sand.

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    Re: Cutting 5mm-10mm thick aluminium

    The cutting wheels on a Dremel are abrasive, they don't have teeth to cut like a saw.

    In general abrasive wheels and soft metals like aluminium, copper or lead are a definite no no. The soft metal does not form sparks like steel would. Instead it melts slightly and gums up the wheel making it useless.

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    Re: Cutting 5mm-10mm thick aluminium

    Ah well it's only to cut a small hole in a case, which means a saw would be impossible to use wouldn't it?

    How about polishing with a dremel then? I can't really imagine how you use a dremel to sand though...

    EDIT: Ah, there are sanding discs for Dremels, perfect! How much quicker would sanding with a dremel be, compared to hand?

    EDIT2: Will edit first post to make it clearer what I'm planning to do.
    Last edited by Ulti; 17-01-2012 at 11:24 PM.

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    Re: Cutting holes in 3mm aluminium case

    For a one-off hole cut into aluminium, I would have thought a metal hole saw (/hole cutter) would do a much more consistent and clean cut than a hand held Dremel with a cutting wheel. And it would be much cheaper too, especially if you already have a conventional drill.

    FWIW, I do have a Dremel and have used it in the past to mod aluminium/steel/plastic parts of PC cases. I found the reinforced cutting wheels don't do a great job on aluminium or plastic, and it's very difficult to achieve a clean looking job in the end, without doing multiple cuts and a lot of sanding afterwards.

    Don't get me wrong, I do like my Dremel... I just don't think that this kind of work is its forte.

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    Re: Cutting holes in 3mm aluminium case

    Well bring a student, I don't actually have a drill to hand.

    For a "Metal hole saw" what would I need? Just the drill and metal hole saw bit?

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    Re: Cutting holes in 3mm aluminium case

    Yup - and some lubricating oil (most HSS hole saws require lubrication of some sort). But that would create a round hole, which I didn't think was what you were after? Besides, half-decent hole saws are notoriously expensive.

    Maybe you could post a pic of the SD card reader you want to mount? Since you'll presumably need to cut a narrow slot in both cases, there could be an alternative option: drill a line of holes of the appropriate width using a standard HSS drill bit, then use the dremel to grind the "tabs" out to make a straight slot. The width of a PCI slot happens to be 13mm, which is a fairly standard drill bit size, and if the SD card reader is *just* an SD card reader I anticipate it would be narrower than that, so you should be able to source a drill bot of appropriate size for that too.

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    Re: Cutting holes in 3mm aluminium case

    Yup scaryjim, as you say, I'm not after a round hole, I'm actually after a 27mm x 3mm rectangular hole in the front (for the SD card slot) and I've not got my half height PCI-E card yet so haven't got any measurements for the back. I'm not sure buying a dremel and drill is feasible for me to be honest.

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    Re: Cutting holes in 3mm aluminium case

    Sorry I'm late here.

    As chrestomanci posted a grinding disc is far less effective on aluminium (not the melting part, that's true for lead tin and such not aluminium, the density is too low and melting point too high)
    You can cut aluminium with a rotary tool but it takes more work than steel and goes through disc's faster.

    Esp with that thickness, one key thing is don't try to cut it in a single pass, you'll probably need to make 3 or 4 passes to cut through 3mm thick aluminium, don't press too hard, let the tool do the work.

    Best thing to use for a square hole is a jig saw with a blade for metal cutting with 20-30 teeth per inch (TPI)
    A hole saw or a Knock out Punch (lovely but very expensive, currently $700 for a 120mm hole knock out punch http://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-730BB.../dp/B00125D9DW ), a hole saw is your best bet.

    What you can use a rotary tool for is to cut a slot to get the jigsaw blade in so you can start a cut.

    Remember to tape over, with good masking tape or blue painters tape, the whole surface you're going to be cutting, not only will this help protect the underlying surface from damage but you can also draw out your plans on the tape.

    Don't use very cheap masking tape, as that doesn't stick well and lifts off.

    Also don't leave the tape on too long, esp if using a rotary tool, you'll get fine particles of metal and grinding disc mixed in with the tape gum, which will solidify and then is a pig to remove without wrecking and paint work/anodising/surface.

    Yes the edges of your cut will be exposed metal, but it's easy to touch up, a simple permanent marker can be used to cover it.

    When cutting metal with a jigsaw I find it best to turn off the pendulum action, this rocks the blade forward and back as it cuts, good for helping keep the jigsaw straight on MDF or wood, but metal cuts slower so pendulum action causes more problems.
    To help keep a jigsaw straight on metal clamp a bit of straight bit of wood onto the metal to act as a guide rail, clamp it to the outside of the hole area, so if you do wander you'll wander into the area being cutout, not the area you wish to keep.

    Remember you can always file off excess metal, but you cannot put back metal you've removed.

    Sanding and polishing with a rotary tool.
    Depends on what you're trying to polish/sand, if you're trying to polish or evenly sand a large flat surface, then No, the tool spins too fast and the heads are too small to work any large flat area evenly.
    You can use a sanding drum to sand down cut edges and remove burrs, it works very well although you need to go carefully if you want to keep edges straight, as over sanding in one spot is easy to do.

    Files for metal, time and patience are really needed with aluminium, but you can get very good results.
    Always cut on the inside of the line when cutting a hole, esp if using sharp pencil lines, ie don't cut on the line but cut so that the outside edge of the cut is on the line, or even not quite touching.

    Again remember that you can always file off excess metal, but you cannot put back metal you've removed.

    If you want to polish paint work, forget it. I've tried on test pieces with just a buffing wheel and the lowest speed setting and it still just eats through the paint rather than buffing it.
    It does work well for buffing bear metal, but again not large flat areas.

    If you're a student at school/college/uni then go talk to the metal working/technology department, they'll have lots of tools and resources you can use.
    Just the basic pillar drill is great for drilling straight neat holes.

    PS you don't need a "dremel" brand rotary tool, yes they are nice and the snap in discs used by the current ones is a nice feature, but a cheap one will work fine.
    The GMC one I'm currently using is nice http://www.amazon.co.uk/GMC-DEC003AC...6924405&sr=8-1 it's not quite up to the overall quality of a Dremel 500 or Black & Decker RT650KA (uk version of the RTX, many people actually rate it above the Dremel 500) However at uder £20 the GMC DEC003AC is great for the cost, esp if you're not going to use it heavily.

    If you do get a rotary tool get some good cutting discs, the Silverline 580480 are good http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-5...6925163&sr=1-1 They are not the best I've used but they are good and not too expensive, they are larger than normal which makes cutting straight lines easier, also slightly thicker these two factors combine to make them last longer and generally cut better.
    They are also reinforced with mesh bonded to each side, this make them far more robust, they don't shatter, I've had them split and chip if it gets jammed in the cut, but never shatter.

    And don't forget to get some safety glasses, this is very important for any power tool but more so with a rotary tool.
    They throw off a lot of fine dust which is a mix of the grinding wheel and metal powder, which can seriously mess up your eyes, grinding disc are made up of aluminium carbide gritt mixed with resin, that's the same stuff used in wet&dry sand paper, so getting the dust in your eyes is like sand papering your eyes, and if a disc shatters bits fly off in all directions at high speeds.
    More than once I've felt bits of cheap disc bouncing off my face and safety glasses when they've shattered.

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    Re: Cutting holes in 3mm aluminium case

    Quote Originally Posted by Ulti View Post
    Yup scaryjim, as you say, I'm not after a round hole, I'm actually after a 27mm x 3mm rectangular hole in the front (for the SD card slot) and I've not got my half height PCI-E card yet so haven't got any measurements for the back. I'm not sure buying a dremel and drill is feasible for me to be honest.
    You could use the method of drilling a row of holes close together in a row called "chain cutting"

    then remove the rest of the ally with small needle files. It's about as easy as you will get for such a small cutout DIY fashion.

    If you have never done this before practice on an old bit of metal first until you are confident you can do the job without a mess up.

    You will need to clamp the work securely in a vice or to a bench to make it safe to drill and work on.

    A power tool may spin the work piece as the drill can bind or snatch, so take care.

    A 2 mm bit in a hand drill would be fine on aluminium.

    Just as an aside, if you use a hole saw to cut out a holes, drill the center with a drill bit 1/4 inch etc as needed, then use a 1/4 inch plain bar in the hole cutter rather than the drill bit as it gives a better finish to the hole. They used to be 1/4 inch when I used them but whatever size they come as now, you get the idea.

    Hope this helps.

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    Re: Cutting holes in 3mm aluminium case

    Would a hold cutting kit be suitable and I have seen on JML I think and square hole cutting kit but for wood though.

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    Re: Cutting holes in 3mm aluminium case

    Thanks for all the advice guys, however some of it is actually not so doable.

    For example:
    -I'm a student at LSE, and AFAIK, we don't have any "DIY" sort of workshop, it's also not so convenient carrying the case around although it would probably save me time and money overall as with a bigger bag I could fit the case in it easily and it's rather light.
    -At home, I only have my room and a garden in which I could probably really work. We've not got a "usable" shed or garage or anything so I'm afraid things like a clamp or workbench are out of the question. Would this still hinder my ability to proceed with this?

    I should be getting a 6570 either today tomorrow and I'll post a few pics and actual dimensions. I may also move my components to the new case to get an idea of what I'll need. My PicoPSU is also due to arrive but there's no ETA on it as the seller on eBay seems to be lacking in communication.

    The GMC does sound like a brilliant student budget friendly option! I've already spent a lot on this build now (well obviously it won't match what people spend on a i7 2XXXK or whatever the super expensive socket 2011 CPUs are).

    Just remembered I need to buy an SD card reader! Sigh I'm not very good at this at all, I'm not sure how I'm going to link the SD card reader to the motherboard and how to attach it to the case. I'm thinking of just buying one of those adapters, taking off the plastic shell, somehow attaching the reader to the case, and then buying some sort of USB cable to make it work.

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    Not a good person scaryjim's Avatar
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    Re: Cutting holes in 3mm aluminium case

    Quote Originally Posted by Ulti View Post
    ... At home, I only have my room and a garden in which I could probably really work. We've not got a "usable" shed or garage or anything so I'm afraid things like a clamp or workbench are out of the question. Would this still hinder my ability to proceed with this? ...
    It means you'll have to be more careful when you're cutting and drilling, but for something like a case it shouldn't matter too much. Ideally you'll need a table to keep everything at a sensible working height though.

    As Pob says you can cut the larger slot with a jigsaw, but I personally wouldn't get a jigsaw unless you plan on doing a lot of case modding and other DIY work in the future - they're not really a very adaptable tool! A good drill and a good rotary tool will serve you in many more situations, and the slots you describe are ideal sizes / shapes to chain cut, like I described earlier.

    What wattage is the PicoPSU you're getting? I'd be a little concerned about trying to run a PC with a discrete card on a Pico - they tend not to have massive 12v output. Check very carefully the current that can be supplied on the 12v will be enough to power the rig.

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