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Thread: H100 with slim fans

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    H100 with slim fans

    Hey everyone,

    Just after a bit of advice really, I'm currently using an old Corsair H50 with 2 Enermax Batwing fans in a push/pull config in my Corsair 300R. It's mounted as an exhaust at the back of the case.

    When I bought the case, I was planning on replacing the H50 with a H100 after a few months, little did I know that Corsair decided to design their case with no clearance at the top for their own H100!

    A friend of mine recently bought a H100 and let me check it in my case before installing it in his rig, I can just get it to fit by mounting the rad to the top of the 300R, then the fans as exhausts pushing air out of the case.

    The problem is, I didn't go through a full install in my rig might so while it should fit, I might literally have 1mm clearance from my Dominator GTs.

    Therefore, I've been checking out some slim 12cm fans and come across some 12cmx20mm Yate Loons that run at 1800RPM, 62CFM and 28.5dBs.

    Will these be good enough to run on a H100 with my i5-3570k at 4.4GHz? I'm currently getting 40c idle and up to 80c load with my H50, but it is very warm in the room atm due to the weather.

    Any advice you guys have about a H100 with slim fans, or even recommend some other fans that are below the standard 25mm depth, would be great.

    M_Taylor40

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    Senior Member Pob255's Avatar
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    Re: H100 with slim fans

    The 300R is designed to use the H100 with a single set of fans, ie as stock, not two sets of fans in push pull.
    It's tight but it fits.

    You'll probably want to remove the ram, fit the rad and fans then re-insert the ram. You should only need to flick the catches when removing ram, when fitting ram pushing it down causes the catches to engage.

    As to slim fans, at the same rpm they will have reduced air flow, how they'll perform on an H100 rad I couldn't say, you'd have to do some of your own testing.
    Yate Loon fans are generally fine, often have a slight motor tic at low rpm, 1000rpm or less, this means it's near impossible to get them really silent but they are still very low noise and for the price they are decent fans.

    At 1800rpm those fans are going to be quiet loud at full speed but are going to move quiet a bit of air even though they are slimmer, probably worth running them with some form of fan control to adjust the speed and thus the noise.

    Only other slim fan I know of off hand are the Scythe Kaze-Jyuni Slim Slip Stream, these are just 12.5mm thick, the big problem here is that they don't have much static pressure resistance so they are not ideal for radiators or coolers. (even though scythe use them on a few of their coolers)

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    Re: H100 with slim fans

    Thanks for the advice Pob255.

    Yeah I'll only be installing the H100 in a push config (Exhaust). It should just fit with the stock fans, but it will literally be 1mm clearance between the blades and the RAM if I'm lucky.

    I've read a few places of people struggling to fit the H100 in the 300R, normally due to issues with the 4/8pin motherboard connector being at the top of the motherboard blocking the access, but luckily for me, my Asus P8Z77-V LX doesn't have any connectors along the top edge of the board.

    I'd be connecting the fans (Stock or Yate Loons) to the built in controller in the H100 pump so it can manage the fan RPM depending on the load.

    A slight tic doesn't bother me too much as I have a Netgear ReadyNAS next to my case which makes more noise than my PC at idle anyway! At load it won't bother me too much either, as if I'm running the computer that hard, it already gets a bit noisy, but I'll generally be gaming and I doubt I'll hear the fan noise over the explosions in BF3 lol!

    I looked at those Scythe fans as well, but decided against them as they just don't seem up to the job due to their (lack-of) thickness and low static pressure.

    I'll have to put off buying a H100 for now anyway, as I'm planning on getting a HD7850 first and those have just dropped in price! But hoperfully be getting one towards the end of September/beginning of October.

    Thanks for the advice and if anyone else has anything to add or can suggest anything, please just post away!

    M_Taylor40

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    Senior Member Pob255's Avatar
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    Re: H100 with slim fans

    If you'll be using the h100 controller then I'd say those yate loon fans look ideal, although maybe a 1600rpm version might be a better noise/performance point, non-PWM fans have a far smaller rpm range before the voltage gets too low to be able to turn them so getting a fan with a lower base speed would give you a lower minimum speed too.
    Again it's hard to tell without actually testing them, I'd not go below 1600rpm for a controlled fan on a cooler just because that gives you the extra power should you need it.

    If your spec's in your profile are correct then a new graphics card is going to be a better place to spend money for BF3
    You might want to consider turning off your overclock as well as that is going to be pushing up the heat generated by your cpu, so just by dropping it back to stock you should see a good drop in temperatures.
    With what you're currently running you shouldn't see any noticeable drop in performance ether.

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    Re: H100 with slim fans

    Hey Pob,

    Thanks again for the info, never crossed my mind about low RPM means low starting RPM, I was just looking at the highest CFM at a reasonable dB. I'll check the website I found those Yate Loons on when I'm home as I'm sure there's a lower RPM model to see what those are like, I know there are some 2000RPM models and those push upto 35dB!

    My temps are currently ok with my H50, hitting upto 80C after about 12hours of Prime95, or it could have been after a couple of hours of IBT, I can't remember now. Anyway, that was during the ridiculous couple of weeks of hot summer weather we got during April/May, it currently hits around 75C last time I checked.

    Main reasons I want to replace the H50 are due to some pump noise every so often that sounds like trapped air, the size of the pump/CPU block makes my case cramped compared to the low profile pump from the H100 and to lower temps that little more by better cooling.

    If the CPU was hitting higher than 80C then I'd remove the OC, but for now it's running nicely.

    Those specs are correct for now, but I'm buying another 8GB RAM on Friday to push it upto 16GB, which will generally mean I'll need to redo my OC anyways lol. Then as soon as Scan (Hopefully) start stocking the Asus HD7850 DC2 V2 I'll be buying one of those as my 8800GTS is struggling with games now, 6 years old and only just showing it's age!

    I'm just forward planning with my upgrade path as after the H100, I'm thinking of some SSDs, maybe a couple of 120GB Corsair GTS in RAID0, but those will have to wait until I actually need them.

    Thanks again,

    M_Taylor40

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    Senior Member Pob255's Avatar
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    Re: H100 with slim fans

    You shouldn't need to redo your overclock, on the sandy/ivy bridge cpu's overclocking is purely cpu core multiplier, fsb is untouched, ram multiplier is untouched, you will be putting more current over the ram controller but that shouldn't have an impact on the overclock.
    The extra heat generated is the only thing that might cause issues.

    Personally I don't like running a cpu over 70c

    On the subject of dBA, unfortunately you cannot trust them, all sorts of environmental factors vastly skew the results; the position of the microphone, the background sound levels, the pitch of the sound, the air pressure, the audible scale used, etc, etc
    What this means it that the exact same fan can give you two vastly different results in two different testing setups or the same fan but by something as simple as using a different microphone can effect the results, this is because there is no standardised test.
    Same goes for CFM, change the test equipment and/or test setup and the results will change, again no one standardised test setup.

    What this all means is that you cannot take the dBA figures from two different companies, you can generally trust the numbers from one company, ie if they say fan X has less dBA than another of their fans, fan Y, then it's generally safe to say that fan X will make less noise than fan Y

    RPM is generally the key factor, higher RPM = more noise + more air flow, a 1000rpm fan should always sound quieter than a 1600rpm fan and will also move less air.
    I say "generally" and "sounds" because there's another key factor in noise, Us, the human ear and brain notices different pitched sounds at different levels, what this means is that you can have two different pitched noises which are both the same "volume" however due to the pitch one will sound louder to the other to us.
    A couple of good examples here, the old Antec tri-cool, due to the shape of the blades they generate a lower pitched noise than most fans which actually makes them more noticeable.
    Another is the much praised scythe gentle typhoon, which has a higher pitched sound than most, which makes it sound louder at lower rpm than other fans at the same rpm, however at higher rpm it sounds quieter than other fans at the same rpm.

    general rule of thumb for 120-140mm fans
    near silent = 900rpm or below (this is where baring and motor noise come into play)
    quiet = 1000-1200rpm
    lowish noise = 1500-1600rpm
    noisy = 1800-2000rpm (but a lot of air)
    Turn your pc into a vacuum cleaner = 2000rpm+ lots of noise and lots of air flow

    This is a very rough rule of thumb not just because some fans break the rules but because sound is subjective and heavily environmentally effected.

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    Re: H100 with slim fans

    Quote Originally Posted by Pob255 View Post
    general rule of thumb for 120-140mm fans
    near silent = 900rpm or below (this is where baring and motor noise come into play)
    quiet = 1000-1200rpm
    lowish noise = 1500-1600rpm
    noisy = 1800-2000rpm (but a lot of air)
    Turn your pc into a vacuum cleaner = 2000rpm+ lots of noise and lots of air flow.
    Sorry but I have to disagree with this. There is HUGE variation between different fans, not to go in to specifics of the technical differences but take this as an example:

    http://www.scan.co.uk/products/140mm...500rpm-33db(a)
    http://www.scan.co.uk/products/140mm...lade-quiet-fan
    These are 2 140mm fans, both roughly the same speed (1500/1600RPM). But look at the difference in sound level: 33dB vs 26dB (that's about double the volume), and the CFM 70 vs 110 (again nearly double).
    So this example shows that a good fan can give (nearly) double the airflow with half the noise.

    The main things to look at when buying a fan is NOT the RPM speed, but look at the sound level and CFM (CFM is cubic feet per minute - i.e. how much air it moves per minute). Then its just down to what you want, silence or high air flow (or a balance).
    But remember that the decibel scale is not a straight line (its a log scale), i.e. the difference between 10dB and 20dB is more than double (its about 10 times), same with 20dB to 30dB.

    My rule to thumb is:
    Noise: 0-30dB is quite/silent, 30-40dB is moderate, 40dB+ is loud (xbox 360 runs at 55dB).
    Air Flow: 0-50CFM is low, 50-70CFM is moderate, 70-100CFM is Good, 100CFM+ is great.

    p.s. the akasa Viper is one of the few fans that can give high CFM and low noise (I own 2 of the & they're *fan*-tastic).

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    Re: H100 with slim fans

    i'd avoid the h100 ive had to rma 3 of them because of the pump noise thats happened like 2 months into use with each and its hapenning with the 4th but im not bothered to rma it.

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    Re: H100 with slim fans

    Quote Originally Posted by Samwood View Post
    Sorry but I have to disagree with this. There is HUGE variation between different fans, not to go in to specifics of the technical differences but take this as an example:

    http://www.scan.co.uk/products/140mm...500rpm-33db(a)
    http://www.scan.co.uk/products/140mm...lade-quiet-fan
    These are 2 140mm fans, both roughly the same speed (1500/1600RPM). But look at the difference in sound level: 33dB vs 26dB (that's about double the volume), and the CFM 70 vs 110 (again nearly double).
    So this example shows that a good fan can give (nearly) double the airflow with half the noise.

    The main things to look at when buying a fan is NOT the RPM speed, but look at the sound level and CFM (CFM is cubic feet per minute - i.e. how much air it moves per minute). Then its just down to what you want, silence or high air flow (or a balance).
    But remember that the decibel scale is not a straight line (its a log scale), i.e. the difference between 10dB and 20dB is more than double (its about 10 times), same with 20dB to 30dB.

    My rule to thumb is:
    Noise: 0-30dB is quite/silent, 30-40dB is moderate, 40dB+ is loud (xbox 360 runs at 55dB).
    Air Flow: 0-50CFM is low, 50-70CFM is moderate, 70-100CFM is Good, 100CFM+ is great.

    p.s. the akasa Viper is one of the few fans that can give high CFM and low noise (I own 2 of the & they're *fan*-tastic).
    manufacturer specs are usually pointless, each one measures differently so its difficult to know how they woud really compare with other fans if they were on an even test bed. There are a couple of fan tests around if you do some googling, the results often show that there is no hard or fast rule to choosing a good fan. Pobs generalisation is pretty accurate for a generalisation in my experience though... if that makes sense
    I also have the vipers and they are pretty good companions for the H100 (not in use currently), but they are not slim

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