Home Theatre Advice...

[bsodmike]

Hello guys,

First of all, I'm expecting a bit of flame for what I'm about to say, as I've already made a few purchases and everyone has an opinion etc

Right now what I've got is as follows:

B&W DM602 S3 (120w)
B&W DM601 S3 (100w)
LCR600 (150w)
Denon AVR 3805 (7x120w per chan and TONs more!) click here for a review!

My problem is deciding between these two stands:

1st pref: http://www.superfi.co.uk/index.cfm/p...Product_ID/808
&
2nd pref: http://www.superfi.co.uk/index.cfm/p...roduct_ID/2175

Spikes: Are these for carpeted floors only? What about granite floors?

Wall Mounting



I want to wall mount teh 601s (rears) and am wondering if these would suffice: http://www.superfi.co.uk/index.cfm/p...Product_ID/181

Thanks a lot,

Mike

[Legin76]

I like option 1. The spikes will be removable from the stand. So you can use it on almost anything. The rear stands should be fine.

I would also recommend that you look at the Custom Design RS Range of speaker stands which cost about the same. I couldn't possibly tell you where to find any though.

[Timmy!!!]

I just read the review on the Denon amp - it sounds great! I hope you have tried that bi-amp option out! I myself am using the Bi-amp function on my 7.1 reciever (Pioneer vsx-d1011) and it really does enhance sound quality.

[bsodmike]

Timmy:

There are two ways to Bi-Amp. One is to feed the same signal to the HF and LF (however HF and LF are isolated) and the other would be to use the 'rear surround' amp to increase the power sent to the front speakers but the DM602 S3s are rated 120W, and 120w x2 = 240W...which would go kaboom when the volume is above 50%!

Which way have you got yours connected? From what I understand having the LF connected to Zone 3 one is able to 'fine tune' it separately??!?

[bsodmike]

I would also recommend that you look at the Custom Design RS Range of speaker stands which cost about the same.

Well I took a look @ them and I'm wondering if that store would be willing to ship to Sri Lanka, any ideas?

Thanks, Mike

[Timmy!!!]

Timmy:

There are two ways to Bi-Amp. One is to feed the same signal to the HF and LF (however HF and LF are isolated) and the other would be to use the 'rear surround' amp to increase the power sent to the front speakers but the DM602 S3s are rated 120W, and 120w x2 = 240W...which would go kaboom when the volume is above 50%!

Which way have you got yours connected? From what I understand having the LF connected to Zone 3 one is able to 'fine tune' it separately??!?

I have mine connected the first way you said - seperate signals to the HF and LF, isolated from each other. Although this is not true Bi-amping, it does still make a difference to sound quality (I find the treble more controlled). To get true bi-amping you need two seperate amplifiers and active crossovers.

Your amp does not really support Bi-amping, there is just a little work around to make it work. However you can fine tune the HF and LF seperately by using the built in EQ on the front channel (for the high frequency) and the EQ on the surround channels (for the low frequencies).

I'm sure your speakers will not go kaboom. If you seperate the HF from the LF then the volume will stay the same (It did for me)

Have a go, some people say its great, some people don't notice any difference and some people think its a waste of time.

[Legin76]

Well I took a look @ them and I'm wondering if that store would be willing to ship to Sri Lanka, any ideas?

Thanks, Mike

Mike

Unfortunatly not. Sri Lanka is one of the countries that many internet companies will not deliver too. Mainy due to the amount of credit card fraud that comes from there, which is extreamly high. Nigera is by far the worst though.

Maybe Superfi will though.

[bsodmike]

Your amp does not really support Bi-amping

I'm sorry if I'm a bit mixed up here but I've read a few reviews including this one: http://www.audioholics.com/productre...5_review04.php

If you look nearer to the end you can see that I could use the zone 3 linked to VDP and make use of this left over amplifier to feed another 120w to the fronts. I.e. this achieves 240W biamped to the main front speakers. Now how is this not true bi-amping? (lack of active crossovers?!?)

I'm sure your speakers will not go kaboom. If you seperate the HF from the LF then the volume will stay the same (It did for me)

Yup doing this is easy, I'd only need a new set of speaker cables haha...I will however give it a try and see Of course they won't go kaboom as they will only get 120W (still)

Legin76: Yea I know what you mean. It is a shame, all it takes is one person to tarnish your 'race' lol. I think I'm going to first see what kind of speaker stands are available locally, I can then think about getting a decent set later on.

[Timmy!!!]

I'm sorry if I'm a bit mixed up here but I've read a few reviews including this one: http://www.audioholics.com/productre...5_review04.php

If you look nearer to the end you can see that I could use the zone 3 linked to VDP and make use of this left over amplifier to feed another 120w to the fronts. I.e. this achieves 240W biamped to the main front speakers. Now how is this not true bi-amping? (lack of active crossovers?!?)

I am not 100% sure about this but I will try to explain

To get true Bi-amping you need to have 2 seperate amplifiers, not one amplifier with 4 channels going to the front speakers - the four channels can 'bleed' or 'crosstalk' into each other (I think). I think there are other reasons why 2 seperate amplifiers are also beter but I am unsure why.

An active crossover is a device that is designed to pass certain frequencies via an electronic circuit. Active Crossovers are used before the amplification (amplifier) stage - this means that one amplifier could only amplify the low signals and the other can only amplify the high frequencies.

if you were to setup bi-amping the 4 channals would be producing the full frequency and the crossovers in the speaker would be used to filter out the correct frequencies. (This is what i do and to me it sounds great) I think also some people state that passive crossovers are bad because they electronically link the hi and lo signals. I read somwhere that to get a true bi amping setup you need to have an active crossover before the amps, then have 2 amps, one driving hi, one driving lo, then remove the passive crossover in the speakers and feed the lo signal to the woofers and the hi signal to the tweeters.

I hope i explained it ok, I am still a bit unsure of it myself and all the articles on it are so long to read!! You might as well try bi-amping, it really made my speakers sound better. Personally i think that active crossover stuff is way too ott!

Tim

[bsodmike]

Ah heh. Well luckily for me the Surr/Multi amp is isolated and I do believe this unit *does* support active crossover, adjusted via menu options. What I realized tho is that of course this results in 240W being sent to the front 2 so it would be EASIEST to do it like you have, isolate the HF & LF and two sets of wires connecting @ the same post. I.e. the Front Left post will have 2x 2core wires, connecting to HF/LF on the left speaker and same for the right one.

Thanks, I'll give it a shot