My 6600K DELID steps and overclocking results! (With advice from Hoonigan)

I kept reading about deliding Intel sky lake CPU's and the more videos i watched the more confident i got.

So i bought a Delid Diemate 2 (For taking the lid off),
Conductonaut (for replacing the thermal compound under the lid),
liquid metal applicator (Crap black ear buds),
Kryonaut (Thermal compound for under the Heat-sink),
Surgical spirit from Superdrug (for cleaning the old thermal compound off)
Cotton balls, ear buds, toilet roll, kitchen towel, sellotape,plastic card and clear nail polish.

Quite a list..

I didn't know Conductonaut came with 2 applicators with it and 2 alcohol wipes, so i didn't need the surgical spirit or separate applicators.

Well anyway the Diemate was soo easy to use took the lid off with ease, i put the CPU and lid on some kitchen towel.

https://i.imgur.com/5y44Xd7.jpg

I cleaned the thermal compound off with toilet tissue, scrapped the silicon off the CPU and lid with my nail lightly, then used an old plastic card (like a credit card) to get the rest off.

https://i.imgur.com/KtYqqRO.jpg

Used the alcohol wipes to clean the CPU and lid and then put sellotape around the core of the CPU and sellotape around the inside of the lid then applied the tiniest drop of Conductonaut to the CPU core and spread it with the applicator once i was happy with that i used the excess on the inside of the lid then took the sellotape off carefully.

https://i.imgur.com/fncpNyl.jpg

Then i applied a tiny amount of nail varnish to the gold contacts on the CPU as i did not want liquid metal touching those not good :(

then i put the CPU back into the socket on the motherboard matching it up with the arrow, then put the lid carefully on top. i then put the CPU retention clamp down slowly putting two fingers onto top with a little pressure as the lid can move..

Once clamped i applied a pea size drop of Kryonaut into the centre of the lid after cleaning the heat-sink and top of lid first of course.:o

then put the PC back together and it booted and straight away i noticed how much quieter it was, i tested with the rise of the tomb-raider benchmark and then temperature has dropped from 68c to 48c and OCCT went from 67c to 56c and whereas it used to get very noisy it is quiet now.

I have had it like this a few days and decided to overclock, i have the 6600K upto 4.5ghz at the moment and also my DDR4 ram is up from 2400 to 2800mhz voltage on CPU is 1.3V and DDR4 is 1.35V

Rise of the tomb raider benchmark temperatures are 51C!(happy with that) and OCCT is 73c which seems a little high..

I will try lower voltages by small increments to get the temperature down, but all in all i am very happy i have done the delid :):juggle: and it is quiet in intense gaming and strangely it seems smoother even without the overclock less spikes in FPS I am guessing.

P.S. also a thank you to Hoonigan for his advice,pm's and support.

Nice to see a success story, what was the price breakdown of all the parts & equipment?

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Originally Posted by virtuo

Nice to see a success story, what was the price breakdown of all the parts & equipment?

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Around about £53, even if the overclocking wasn't successful getting the temperature down from roughly 70c to 50c in most games is amazing by itself.

Fallout 4 which is quite heavy on CPU and used to get the fans spinning high (and noisy) is below 49c now with the 4.5ghz overclock.

Forgot to mention this is on air using a thermaltake contac 21 heatsink with has two 120mm fans, and there are 2 inlet fans on the front of the case one outlet at the back and one outlet on top all 120mm inside a Corsair spec01 case..

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Originally Posted by Ravens Nest

Around about £53, even if the overclocking wasn't successful getting the temperature down from roughly 70c to 50c in most games is amazing by itself.

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I'd definitely say knocking about 30% from your temps is a success - if your chip isn't a good clocker then it just isn't, no big deal.

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Originally Posted by virtuo

I'd definitely say knocking about 30% from your temps is a success - if your chip isn't a good clocker then it just isn't, no big deal.

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It seems stable now, couldn't get the CPU voltage below 1.3 without instability, i was able to drop the DDR4 Voltage to 1.3 from 1.35 so that helps with temps a little.

Was shocked how easy it was to be honest, obviously i could have messed it up but i researched and researched before attempting and actually the clear nail varnish on the gold contacts was a last minute thought.

it hasn't been relidded by the way but most people say you do not need to unless your selling it lol..

Very interesting to read about.

I'd still never risk trying it myself though if I had a CPU that would benefit from it.

Thanks for sharing how you did it - it might be worth stickying it??

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Originally Posted by Ravens Nest

Around about £53, even if the overclocking wasn't successful getting the temperature down from roughly 70c to 50c in most games is amazing by itself.

Fallout 4 which is quite heavy on CPU and used to get the fans spinning high (and noisy) is below 49c now with the 4.5ghz overclock.

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BTW,a quick tip for improving FO4 performance - make sure you have it running off a suitably fast SSD. Its also very I/O bound too.

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Originally Posted by Output

Very interesting to read about.

I'd still never risk trying it myself though if I had a CPU that would benefit from it.

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Thanks i hope i made it easy to read and follow, if anyone wants to attempt it themselves.

Made me on edge when i attempted it as i do not have a lot of spare money and could only afford the parts i needed from birthday money i had received so if i had failed then a new i5 or i7 skylake would have been an expensive and financially painful fail for me.

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Originally Posted by CAT-THE-FIFTH

Thanks for sharing how you did it - it might be worth stickying it??



BTW,a quick tip for improving FO4 performance - make sure you have it running off a suitably fast SSD. Its also very I/O bound too.

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I do not mind you stickying it as i put the post on here to help anyone if they had ever had thoughts of delidding, That is a good tip about FO4 i have it on the SSD already and Witcher 3 benefits from that as well.

I just need to find a way to attach photos now.

Glad you got the results you wanted man :D

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Originally Posted by Ravens Nest

I do not mind you stickying it as i put the post on here to help anyone if they had ever had thoughts of delidding, That is a good tip about FO4 i have it on the SSD already and Witcher 3 benefits from that as well.

I just need to find a way to attach photos now.

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Some pictures would be useful too! :) Yeah,but interestingly enough if you do notice more recent jumpiness in performance its down to the spectre/meltdown patches which can be temporarily deactivated AFAIK(but means you should avoid using the internet).

I have just added photos (Sorry there quite blurry)

It's really odd that on a £190 processor, Intel won't spend a couple of extra pence on a proper solder thermal compound under the IHS. Why would they deliberately shackle the performance of the product, especially now that AMD are actually competing with them again?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrJim

It's really odd that on a £190 processor, Intel won't spend a couple of extra pence on a proper solder thermal compound under the IHS. Why would they deliberately shackle the performance of the product, especially now that AMD are actually competing with them again?

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Apparently its for environmental reasons IIRC.

Up until Ryzen the main reason as I saw it was Intel didn't want to go into competition with itself. For example nobody would buy a more expensive i7-6700 if you could easily overclock an i5-6600k to similar or better performance.

You'd hope Intel will now change its ways to compete with AMD. Really doesn't matter if they lose sales on their more expensive premium models if they can at least snatch some sales back from AMD by sell more Intel CPU's lower down the stack by soldering on the IHS.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrJim

It's really odd that on a £190 processor, Intel won't spend a couple of extra pence on a proper solder thermal compound under the IHS. Why would they deliberately shackle the performance of the product, especially now that AMD are actually competing with them again?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CAT-THE-FIFTH

Apparently its for environmental reasons IIRC.

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That along with a few other reasons, sourcing material from conflict free countries, mechanical strain from thermal cycling, wasn't, and probably still isn't, a need to push for higher clock speeds, and easier/quicker to assemble the final package to name a few. That's not to say price doesn't come into it just that it probably features pretty low on the list of reasons why.

I also think its a way to shorten the life span of the CPU's (20 degree higher in temperatures by using thermal compound and not soldering must shorten the life of the CPU)

Intel until recently had no competition, and every intel CPU i3-i5-i7 generation was never a massive jump in performance on release not like it used to be in the 386-P2-P3-P4-Athlon64 days.

I mean i have a i7 920 2.6ghz CPU in a drawer when the motherboard died i moved onto Z170 i5 3.5ghz skylake and did not see an increase in performance really actually maybe a small decrease. (it was an i7 to i5 downgrade though, but a 8 year gap should have been a massive upgrade and it was not)

Ryzen has changed all that and when i do upgrade thanks to AMD, an 8 core CPU's will be the minimum i will be buying.

The link below is an i7 920 vs a Skylake i7 6700k not a massive jump in performance for 8 years is it?.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/qkhzaBzvp9M

SKL/KL/CFL did see some decent jump in games though, especially FO4 partly due to the improved memory controller since the game loves high speed RAM.

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Originally Posted by CAT-THE-FIFTH

SKL/KL/CFL did see some decent jump in games though, especially FO4 partly due to the improved memory controller since the game loves high speed RAM.

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Yes thats why i tried to overclock my DDR4 2400mhz to 2800mhz or higher as it is noticably better in some games, but sadly i have had to remove the ram overclock 1.35V is the highest safe voltage i could get the DDR4 upto but kept getting POST problems (this happened before the CPU overclock) so now i have stuck with the 4.5ghz overclock and leaving the RAM at defaults sadly.. :(

I suppose newer Intel are much better at power usage too.

beautiful thread :)

good work , thats saved you hundred and hundreds of pounds on a new rig.

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Originally Posted by Zak33

beautiful thread :)

good work , thats saved you hundred and hundreds of pounds on a new rig.

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Thank you, i am hoping it will save others hundreds and hundreds as well especially in this uncertain brexit world we live in now.

So thought i would give an update, i am still overclocking the delidded 6600K to 4.5ghz from 3.5ghz and its had one post error which seems strange so a friend give me a better heat sink for it.

It is a Coolermaster tpc800 not the easiest to fit, when i took my old heatsink off i had used the pea application and i could tell it was not in the centre of the CPU and maybe not quite enough of it, so after quite a bit of research i settled with the X for the thermal application as it give the least air bubbles and covers the whole CPU when it is clamped in place with the Heatsink.

Here are the results..

Rise of the tomb raider benchmark temperatures are now 48c vs 51c (which is a small improvement) and OCCT is now 52c down from 73c which is massively better! my idle temp is down from 34c to 28c (from cold its 17c) so very happy with the results so far.

Just hope i dont see another post error, then i will get greedy and try for 5ghz :rockon:

I wouldn't personally go much above 4.7-8 friend. I used to have a 6600k now I'm on R1700

it's a lot better even at 3.9GHz

Thanks so much for the interesting thread. I believe the notional reason Intel is using hand cream as a thermal compound is due to the longevity of the thermal interface material compared to some industrial liquid metal products.

I may not have that accurate but I believe it's likely that and cost.

Great thread! Cat you made my head hurt lol :)

Thread 'stickied'. Very interesting and may be of use to others - of course anyone trying this is taking a risk, and will void the mfrs warranty. :)

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Originally Posted by Millennium

I wouldn't personally go much above 4.7-8 friend. I used to have a 6600k now I'm on R1700

it's a lot better even at 3.9GHz

Thanks so much for the interesting thread. I believe the notional reason Intel is using hand cream as a thermal compound is due to the longevity of the thermal interface material compared to some industrial liquid metal products.

I may not have that accurate but I believe it's likely that and cost.

Great thread! Cat you made my head hurt lol :)

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That maybe true, from what i have read liquid metal has to be changed roughly every 2 years (or when the temperature's start to rise) also soldering a CPU (Which intel used to do) causes a higher failure rate in manufacture so thermal is cheaper and more cost effective i guess.

Looked at benchmarks of 3.5ghz vs 4ghz vs 5ghz and from what i can see not much increase in FPS so i may stay with 4.5ghz (for now..) But i love it that no game goes about 58c or any benchmark so nice quiet and cooler :)

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Originally Posted by peterb

Thread 'stickied'. Very interesting and may be of use to others - of course anyone trying this is taking a risk, and will void the mfrs warranty. :)

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Yes that's why i waited at least a couple of years two do it, And thanks for the sticky (My first!)

Congratulations on getting it stuck! :D

I wonder if HEXUS would allow me to link my original article that Ravens Nest followed? :P

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Originally Posted by Hoonigan

Congratulations on getting it stuck! :D

I wonder if HEXUS would allow me to link my original article that Ravens Nest followed? :P

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sadly not Hoons. I love you site as much as many do, but it's a fully fledged hardware site, commerically driven and to drive traffic there isn't the right thing to do for HEXUS. Soz dude.

Well, just to add further credibility to Ravens Nest's thread, here are my personal results on my 7700K under a Corsair H150i Pro RGB.

Idle temps
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachmen...idle_temps.png
Left to idle for 10 minutes after booting

Load temps
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachmen...load_temps.png
Prime95 for 30 minutes - maximum core temperature measured

As you can see, the drop was absolutely massive and far more drastic than I'd ever thought it could be. For the sake of 30 minutes work, if that, the results are incredible. I was regularly hitting 70°C+ just during gaming and seeing temperatures into the 90s @ stock clocks during stress testing. The Corsair H150i Pro RGB is an insanely capable CPU cooler and is able to shift more than enough heat away from a CPU, but if the heat can't get out of the CPU Die efficiently, the whole process breaks down.

I even managed a 5.0GHz overclock on the 7700K while remaining way below the stock-TIM temperatures @ stock speeds.

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachmen...verclocked.png
De-lidded temperatures @ idle and load

firece temp drop :)

One thing I'm curious about - I thought the heatspreaders were aluminium, and so unsuitable for use with gallium-containing liquid metals?

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Originally Posted by Xlucine

One thing I'm curious about - I thought the heatspreaders were aluminium, and so unsuitable for use with gallium-containing liquid metals?

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Nah, the vast majority are nickel plated copper. But you're right about the gallium->aluminium being a bad thing.

Very interesting Hoonigan !

I would assume with the 8700k i7 part and the possible upcoming anniversary special edition intel Central Processor that 'delidding' and liquid metal may be really close to a necessity. More cores! Same tech! Same old 'engineering'!

I put that in quotes since Intel should have fixed Spectre and Meltdown many years ago, they were warned REALLY early and didn't do a thing.


I want my 7nm Ryzen and I want it now to be perfectly honest :)

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Originally Posted by Hoonigan

gallium->aluminium

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Mercury and aluminium is strange one, worth a google.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Xlucine

One thing I'm curious about - I thought the heatspreaders were aluminium, and so unsuitable for use with gallium-containing liquid metals?

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Both use nickel plated copper. However,the funny thing is the shape of the Intel IHS actually impedes things as they could actually shape it to have more surface area:

https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/3...pu-rockit-cool

GN tested an aftermarket copper IHS and temperatures dropped a few degrees. With the AMD APUs it made much less of a difference as the normal IHS is larger in surface area anyway:

https://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreview...ven-ridge-apus

So its not only the TIM they use,but also the fact the IHS could also have a larger surface area which is not helping Intel.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Millennium

Very interesting Hoonigan !

I would assume with the 8700k i7 part and the possible upcoming anniversary special edition intel Central Processor that 'delidding' and liquid metal may be really close to a necessity. More cores! Same tech! Same old 'engineering'!

I put that in quotes since Intel should have fixed Spectre and Meltdown many years ago, they were warned REALLY early and didn't do a thing.


I want my 7nm Ryzen and I want it now to be perfectly honest :)

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I reckon that liquid metal or going back to solder will be there secret weapon after Ryzen 2 comes out.. then again something else might be waiting in the wing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hoonigan

Nah, the vast majority are nickel plated copper. But you're right about the gallium->aluminium being a bad thing.

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Its the Heatsink's you have to watch for, i would love to put liquid metal under mine but seems too risky. (Its a coolermaster TPC800 which is supposed to have a polished copper base)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CAT-THE-FIFTH

Both use nickel plated copper. However,the funny thing is the shape of the Intel IHS actually impedes things as they could actually shape it to have more surface area:

https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/3...pu-rockit-cool

GN tested an aftermarket copper IHS and temperatures dropped a few degrees. With the AMD APUs it made much less of a difference as the normal IHS is larger in surface area anyway:

https://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreview...ven-ridge-apus

So its not only the TIM they use,but also the fact the IHS could also have a larger surface area which is not helping Intel.

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5 Degree extra drop in temperature, then again £20 for 5c drop is expensive vs the 20c drop for delidding.

Still tempting though..

Thought it was interesting on the Ryzen results that no adhesive holding the IHS was lower temperature than a relidded IHS?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ravens Nest

I reckon that liquid metal or going back to solder will be there secret weapon after Ryzen 2 comes out.. then again something else might be waiting in the wing.



Its the Heatsink's you have to watch for, i would love to put liquid metal under mine but seems too risky. (Its a coolermaster TPC800 which is supposed to have a polished copper base)



5 Degree extra drop in temperature, then again £20 for 5c drop is expensive vs the 20c drop for delidding.

Still tempting though..

Thought it was interesting on the Ryzen results that no adhesive holding the IHS was lower temperature than a relidded IHS?

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Higher Z height due to the layer of adhesive??

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Originally Posted by CAT-THE-FIFTH

Higher Z height due to the layer of adhesive??

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That's exactly it. The gasket seal around the base of the IHS increases the distance the heat has to travel through a TIM between the IHS and the silicon. Every little helps when getting the heat away from the CPU.

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Originally Posted by CAT-THE-FIFTH

Higher Z height due to the layer of adhesive??

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I guess it acts like an oven if you have a larger area under the IHS.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hoonigan

That's exactly it. The gasket seal around the base of the IHS increases the distance the heat has to travel through a TIM between the IHS and the silicon. Every little helps when getting the heat away from the CPU.

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I have seen different ways people relid there IHS some use a small dot of superglue in each corner
(big no no, the superglue can melt at high temperature and doesn't come off very easily if you need to delid again and can cause damage to the CPU)

Tiny dab of gasket seal in each corner just to stop the IHS moving or falling off
(if i was reliding i would do it this way)

Gasket seal around the whole inside edge of the IHS
(Not good idea as you need a small gap to vent gases and excess air from reliding)

Gasket seal nearly all the way around the inside edge of the IHS leaving a small gap
(Good way but i guess as has been shown temperatures are higher as it raises up the IHS)

Thats the general idea im getting.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Ravens Nest

I have seen different ways people relid there IHS some use a small dot of superglue in each corner
(big no no, the superglue can melt at high temperature and doesn't come off very easily if you need to delid again and can cause damage to the CPU)

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I spoke to 8Pack at OcUK regarding relidding the CPU. A dab of superglue (Cyanoacrylate) in each corner will not melt until around 190°C, by which point your CPU will be toast. Cyanoacrylate also has a low shearing strength, and is often used as a temporary bond between two products, which makes it perfect if you need to delid the CPU again.

So I'm sorry, but whatever you have based your "superglue" facts upon, must be on a different type of glue and not cyanoacrylate, which is generally accepted as "superglue".

Don't forget that one of the other reasons for the IHS is to protect the chip, over tightening a cpu cooler could crack the cpu, killing it.

Interestingly lapping the IHS was a big thing on the early intel IHS, because the soldering casuse warping of the IHS leaving them concave, this doesn't happen with the pasted IHS and lapping has died out (although direct heat pipe coolers are also a lapping no no)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hoonigan

The superglue is also much easier to break due to its lack of elasticity, if you need to delid it again for any reason.

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Although I'm betting that it also has a greater chance to damge the surface of the substraight (that is the correct term for the pcb the chip and IHS is on isn't it?)
I'd say a dab of silicon at the corners i probably best, stick it into the motherboard slot before it cures and the pressure from the retension bracket will do a good job of squishing it as flat as possible.

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Originally Posted by Pob255

Although I'm betting that it also has a greater chance to damge the surface of the substraight (that is the correct term for the pcb the chip and IHS is on isn't it?)
I'd say a dab of silicon at the corners i probably best, stick it into the motherboard slot before it cures and the pressure from the retension bracket will do a good job of squishing it as flat as possible.

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I was only following the advice of one of the world's top overclockers, that's all :P

You may very well have a point about eventually damaging the PCB though, but that's all part of the risk really. However, in my experience, breaking the bond of a cheap superglue isn't that tricky.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hoonigan

I was only following the advice of one of the world's top overclockers, that's all :P

You may very well have a point about eventually damaging the PCB though, but that's all part of the risk really. However, in my experience, breaking the bond of a cheap superglue isn't that tricky.

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I wasn't saying it's not easy to break, super glue is brittle, the question is how easily the substraight surface will break?
And I'm guessing it's more of a case as to what you have to hand, most people will have superglue not silicon in a small applicator.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pob255

And I'm guessing it's more of a case as to what you have to hand, most people will have superglue not silicon in a small applicator.

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This probably has more to do with it, if it's readily available. It's just a couple of small dobs of superglue to hold the IHS in place until you've got it under the retention mechanism.

Need to be careful what silicon sealant you use - some liberate acetic acid as they cure - not good for electronic components.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hoonigan

I spoke to 8Pack at OcUK regarding relidding the CPU. A dab of superglue (Cyanoacrylate) in each corner will not melt until around 190°C, by which point your CPU will be toast. Cyanoacrylate also has a low shearing strength, and is often used as a temporary bond between two products, which makes it perfect if you need to delid the CPU again.

So I'm sorry, but whatever you have based your "superglue" facts upon, must be on a different type of glue and not cyanoacrylate, which is generally accepted as "superglue".

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I just read i few horror stories, one was using a delid tool to delid a superglue covered IHS again and it took some of the PCB off killing the CPU, another was putting superglue under the IHS and getting it onto the contacts and under the pins, and the last was the superglue eating into the PCB (But saying that he wasn't using real superglue, so there is a lesson there i guess)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pob255

Don't forget that one of the other reasons for the IHS is to protect the chip, over tightening a cpu cooler could crack the cpu, killing it.

Interestingly lapping the IHS was a big thing on the early intel IHS, because the soldering casuse warping of the IHS leaving them concave, this doesn't happen with the pasted IHS and lapping has died out (although direct heat pipe coolers are also a lapping no no)

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Very interesting, i never knew that and makes total sense.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hoonigan

This probably has more to do with it, if it's readily available. It's just a couple of small dobs of superglue to hold the IHS in place until you've got it under the retention mechanism.

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Superglue Gel looks interesting as a way to relid though, so only a drop on two corners would be enough do you think?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by peterb

Need to be careful what silicon sealant you use - some liberate acetic acid as they cure - not good for electronic components.

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Any ideas what a good and preferably cheap one can be found?:)

Cheap and good don’t always go together!

The instructions usually state if they liberate acetic acid (often bathroom sealants). They also smell of vinegar!

If I remember correctly you want the clear stuff not the white stuff.

The colour doesn’t matter - you need a neutral cure compound (not an acetoxy cure)

This is one https://www.sealantsonline.co.uk/Pro...alants/HAN2499

However I have not used it for sealing electronic components and make no recommendations for or against its use! (But it doesn’t liberate acetic acid!)

Thanks for the all the comments, and suggestions.

At this moment i am settling with 4.5ghz at 1.235V, seems stable so far, to be honest i do not see a massive improvement in performance from 3.5-4.5ghz :shocked2: so i am not really interested in trying to get to 5ghz.. now the lower temperatures are what have impressed me the most no game or benchmark goes above 52c @ 4.5ghz much better than i started at 3.5ghz failed overclocks and stock temps of 82c on OCCT.

Getting my DDR4 2400mhz ram on either tighter timed or higher frequency or both :devilish: is the next thing i am going to focus on.. i did get it to 2800 and 3000mhz and had a couple of post errors but when it worked it was noticable in games and windows (Windows loaded quicker and games low FPS were better)

And then re-applying thermal compound on my Gigabyte G1 Gaming 970 and overclocking it is my next mission. :geek:

The overclocking bug has well and truly infected Raven here. He'll be looking at LN2 and ice boxes next!

Goes to start googling the names...:crazy::eek:
Actually tempted to replace the Gigabyte G1 970 thermal compound with Conductonaut liquid metal, but seen horror stories about it reacting with aluminum but still researching the idea.

Just a quick update on things.. as you may have notice on another forum post I tinkered too much and broke my Asus Z170 pro gaming motherboard, I changed to a Gigabyte GA-Z270-Gaming K3 so all in all cost me £113 instead of £53 oh well.

Another nightmare i had was I decided to make a more permanent job with the IHS using Loctite superglue gel one blob on each corner, came back to install it (After letting it dry for an hour and a half.) and it was still wet got all over my hands and while I was cleaning them decided to dry on the i5 IHS(Wonky) in that small amount of time so had to use the Die-mate to remove the lid again..

So please please everyone attempting this don't use Loctite superglue gel.


Also i took my gigabyte g1 gaming 970 apart cleaned the heatsink and changed the thermal compound to thermal grizzly kryonaut temps dropped from 72c to 68c small drop but every little helps!

But the good news is now my PC is running beautifully, every game seems to run better as I guess it never seems to throttle due to the lower temperatures.

@Ravens Nest - the advice I was given was to use an activator if you're using super glue. You want it cure as quickly as possible when reapplying the lid.

My 7700K is still doing really well at 5.0GHz, topping out at around 80°C when the room gets warm at full load.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hoonigan

@Ravens Nest - the advice I was given was to use an activator if you're using super glue. You want it cure as quickly as possible when reapplying the lid.

My 7700K is still doing really well at 5.0GHz, topping out at around 80°C when the room gets warm at full load.

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An activator? always thought superglue especially loctite drys very very quickly.. so i guess the advice is Please please everyone attempting this don't use Loctite superglue gel (unless you use an activator)

80c at 5ghz is very good :)

The delid is responsible for most of the temperature drop, 15-20 degrees is regularly seen on Skylake and newer chips.

That being said, lapping does still does offer 3-4 degrees of improvement with some CPU coolers. IMO, it is better to just a flat pure copper IHS for $20 though, same effect with no time or sandpaper.