I was in a similar situation to you 3 months ago, and tonight will be my first night in my new property. However, my situation was one of the more straight-forward ways (new build that was almost complete, FTB, normal mortgage), which is why it was quick. It was also fairly easy for me as I am single and only moving 15 minutes down the road; so I'm using my own car rather than hiring a van. However, new builds have their own problems. For example, I had trouble getting insurance quotes since the address didn't exist (they asked for GPS co-ordinates). I also made a slight blunder in that I thought I could get Infinity (I tried the number above mine, and it was available). Turns out they had FTTP, which may have been something that was asked for during the build phase. Doesn't look like the cabinet is FTTC somehow, which is a bit confusing. So I've downgraded from 60Mbs to 2.5Mbs. I need to track down an Openreach guy on the estate at some point to try and clarify that. Seriously, this has been my biggest stress so far!
The way I started is what has been suggested here, looking at the guides on Money Saving Expert. Going by memory, here is the jist of it (I'm sure people will correct me if wrong)
1. Get an idea of your budget. Use “How much can I borrow?” calculators to give you a very rough idea of the maximum that you could borrow (chances are it will be lower). Also look into schemes (shared ownership, Help-to-Buy) if eligible. In addition to this you need to take into account the following fees: -
a. Stamp Duty (depends on property price, £1000-£10000)
b. Solicitor's fees(£500-£1500)
c. Land Registry fee (up to £500, also dependant on property price)
d. Seller's Solicitor's fees (£200) (might be new build only)
e. Mortgage Booking Fee (£100-£200 – Non refundable)
f. Mortgage Arrangement (£0-£2500, sometimes added to the mortgage)
g. Valuation (£300-£400)
h. Surveys (£400-£700)
i. Broker Fee if used (£0-£500)
j. Total around £5000-£6000 on average
k. There's also life/injury protection insurance on top of the mortgage repayments. (around £50 per month)
2. Using the above information, have a look around on Rightmove or estate agents to get an idea of the type and price of property you want.
3. Use that information to get a Decision in Principle for a mortgage. This is bit more in depth than step 1, but can still be done over the phone. I used a broker London & Country for this as recommended by Money Saving Expert and was free at this point.
4. You can also start getting quotes for solicitors around the same time. As mentioned, expect to be recommended some by the estate agent; there's no harm in looking and researching them as well. Again, research MSE forums; there are cheap online only ones that might be worth avioding.
5. Now you can start getting serious, viewing properties and making offers. For mine, I was only able to get 5% off the asking price plus another 3% in incentives (stamp duty, flooring+fixtures; this can affect your valuation though).
6. If the offer is accepted, you can now start the ball rolling with valuations, surveys and the mortgage process. With the valuation, you may find the property is valued below what you offered which can affect your Loan-to-Value (LTV) and possibly the mortgage you can get. You can increase your deposit to bring the LTV back.
7. As mentioned, expect to be interviewed by the mortgage broker/lender to calculate all your outgoings and affordability. At this point, I had swapped brokers to Mortgages First that were recommended by the builders and didn't seem all that bad. They were free and since it was a new build, I was against the clock for Exchange (1 month). I also knew which mortgage I wanted (thanks to L&C), so specified that to them. However, when the representative arrived, she had been misinformed at the mortgage I was going for (instead looking at one that I hadn't even discussed on the phone prior), so wasn't as good as it could have been. The amount I could borrow was lowered after this due to my Student Loan repayments (yes, they matter for once) and the fact that I am lease hiring my car, so I had to increase my deposit to cover the difference (I had planned conservatively anyway, so wasn't too bad). Obviously, this is something else to plan for.
8. At this point, either party can back out/mess around until the Exchange of Contracts.
9. When the Exchange is made, you have to pay your deposit (or at least part of it in my case) and now both sides are legally locked in, so neither can mess around too much (although still possible but at much more cost). Sometimes, you need to have buildings insurance in place at Exchange (probably new build only again); you definitely need it by Completion.
10. The final stage is completion; when you become the legal owner and get the keys (or in my case, the day after as I was away with work!). Your solicitor will basically give you a final figure you need pay by this point.