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Thread: Anyone know about chainsaws?

  1. #1
    ERU
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    Anyone know about chainsaws?

    I got a log fire and it's pretty expensive to run with coal and logs. So since moving in i have steadily been collecting the odd log. It has now got to the stage where i got out of my way to get it. So i was in the garden today with a mamouth load of logs/trees with my axe that i finally decided enougth was enougth - i need a chainsaw. I had palnned to use my circular saw and maul to chop them up into noice neat pieces but all i got after a good 2 hours of hard work is a complete mess, although i did get it all into small enougth pieces to put into the fire place. Short of actually sawing the logs up myself i deffo need a chain saw.

    So my questions are there; does anyone know anything about them? I'm a complete noob. Do i need a liecence as Sweenster was telling me on IRC just now? If so how big can i get one up to? Are electric ones any good? Do i need safety stuff? What do i need to do to look after them? What are the good makes? Anything i might not have asked that may be important?

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    The only actual thing i know about chainsaws is that a 14" chainsaw can cut a 28" diameter log (basically chainsaw length = half tree diameter) so 14" is good for domestic purposes.

    Get a petrol - just preference.
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    HEXUS.Metal Knoxville's Avatar
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    You only need a licence to use them commercially iirc, we run to log burining fires in our house and they run the central heating. Best bet for small stuff is to get an electric, they're easier to use imo, smaller for storage and last time I checked they were cheaper aswell.

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    ERU
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    Aye the elecric is cheaper but i've heard they dont work too well. Especially when the sap clogs the blades.

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    adamspestcontrol.co.uk
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    You asked in the right place Im a Tree Suregon

    Ill try and cover all your points in no particular order

    1. Electric Chainsaws DONT BOTHER!!!!! Really dangerous, underpowered etc etc

    2. Go for a decent petrol make. The only 2 contenders in my experiance are Stihl or Husqvarna

    3. Size depends on how big the logs are you are looking to cut, as I earn a living from it I have everything from 12 inch blades to 24 inch monsters my advice would be if the logs are fairly standard upto 16 inchs accross then a 14 to 16 inch blade is plenty. Get the most powerful engine you can afford the more power the easier the job

    4. When buying your saw by all means go mail order but dont go second hand, if you dont know what to look for its a minefield. Spend the extra and go new.

    5. Safety I cannot stress how deadly these thing are, I would invest in Steel Toecapped thick boots, protective trousers and a helmet with mesh visor and ear defenders, it will look overkill and set you back about £160 for the full kit. As a minimum Boots and Helmet, I often use mine without the trousers just be aware the chainbreak on the saw is your only protection and its not to be relied on.

    6. Buy or make a decent sawhorse to rest the wood being cut in.

    7. Spares and fuel, normal unleaded but you will need to put a mix in it, about £4 ish a bottle, oil for chain the same NEVER let this run dry!!! Also invest in a file, the saw will come with a comprehensive guide on using it (if not email me Ill send you one) this is one of those tools where REALLY they are not joking, RTFM and the read it again.

    Heres what I would go for

    stihl

    in 15 inch or

    Husqvarna 142 they also do a 137 which is a smashing little saw but it doesnt harm if the budget will allow to have the extra grunt of the 142

    You really dont need to worry about a pro or semi pro saw if all your doing in cutting logs.

    heres a saw horse link http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=17779

    bit pricey but good kit

    Re legalities to conduct any work for pay then you must have insurances and NPTC qualifications for own usage then you dont have to have anything except common sense. Use that read the manual and youll be fine, if in doubt dont cut it is my motto.

    Any thing else just ask away for what its worth the general concensus is that for delicate surgery work and pruning etc go for Sthil and for more manual grunt and felling, logging get a huskie Me Id go Huskie but its your call

    Oh and www.treelandcare.co.uk Nothing on saws yet but the pruning section will be done next few days as well as the felling section
    Last edited by Dakaras; 29-01-2005 at 05:28 PM.

  6. #6
    No more Mr Nice Guy. Nick's Avatar
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    And be REALLY careful if cutting sawn, reclaimed timber... you wouldn't BELIEVE the kick a chainsaw has when it hits a buried nail... at least, you wouldn't believe it until after you've given yourself an open top head...
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    adamspestcontrol.co.uk
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deckard
    And be REALLY careful if cutting sawn, reclaimed timber... you wouldn't BELIEVE the kick a chainsaw has when it hits a buried nail... at least, you wouldn't believe it until after you've given yourself an open top head...
    I second that and since a very nasty incident with a sleeper, a buried nail and snapped chain and wreaked blade I bow saw by hand or anglegrind

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    Studmuffin Flibb's Avatar
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    HAve you looked at getting a log splitter? Spent a few hours over my parents the other day splitting a large trailer load of logs, me and my Dad went inside and left my Mother doing the splitting. The beasty we used was hydraulic but there are lots of options on the market. We had a tripple head fitted so it cut the logs in to three in one go, incredible bit of kit. If the stuff you are getting is in the correct lengths and you want to split it, could be worth a look. Would be cleaner, safer, easier and quicker than using a chainsaw. My Dad picks his logs up free of charge, its not worth the tree surgeon taking them away, could be worth asking around your area. Notice you use coal as well, it can be a lot cheaper to buy a bulk load during the summer, they often drop the prices.

    Also agre with what the others say, chainsaws must be treated with respect and they are a high maintenance item. They require sharpening, tuning and lots of TLC. Many people get fed up when they get one out of a shed and it wont work, they are often good in theory but a pain in the arse if not looked after. We currently use both Stihl and Husqvarna, we killed several other makes after a few hours use. Dont even think of second hand, could cost you more than the saw is worth to get it serviced.

  9. #9
    ERU
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    Fantastic posts guys - cheers. I'm living and learning.

    Out of interest [MA]Dak[GSV] does your job pay well? What are the perks and trougths? What qualifications have you got and how long did it take you to get them? I ask as i am seriously thinking of a career change and this could be an option. In fact it suits me VERY well.

    EDIT: I have just seen one on Argos for £39.99. I know how bad this is but i'll pop over tomorrow and get this as a starter and learn about them abit. I am still on the lookout for a good petrol one later.
    Last edited by ERU; 29-01-2005 at 10:27 PM.

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    adamspestcontrol.co.uk
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    Quote Originally Posted by ERU
    Fantastic posts guys - cheers. I'm living and learning.

    Out of interest [MA]Dak[GSV] does your job pay well? What are the perks and trougths? What qualifications have you got and how long did it take you to get them? I ask as i am seriously thinking of a career change and this could be an option. In fact it suits me VERY well.
    Earning potential for a fully qualified surgeon is £25000 to £30000 per year plus overtime thats employed by a company or council. To earn the higher end you need the following

    NPTC

    Chainsaw Safety
    Chainsaw Maintenance
    Felling Small Trees
    Felling Medium Trees
    Felling Large Trees
    Felling Windblown Trees
    Felling Multiple Windblown Trees

    And thats just the stuff on the ground to give you an idea the 1st 3 take 1 week follwoed by a 1 day practical assesment total cost £675

    When you have that lot under your belt you can then start to train as a climber

    Theres about another 5 or 6 to do, including safety, Tree Rescue, dismatling, crowning etc

    In addition to that practical side to really make sure you earn top end money the RFS Certificate of Ariborculture which is a 10 month to 3 year home study course with written exams. cost £400. You must also have the 1st 3 above plus spraying, stump grinding and chipping.

    So in summary you need to part with at least £1100 just to fell small trees and give advice

    Perks

    Well your never short of firewood A great deal of job satisfaction because its not all about felling trees, you cover foresty, planting, woodland design etc.
    You get to work outside everyday

    Troughs

    Its graft, you HAVE to work outside everyday
    Last edited by Dakaras; 30-01-2005 at 10:52 PM.

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    Senior Member SilentDeath's Avatar
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    nm.. stupid idea..

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    ERU
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    This is all actually sounding very tempting [MA]Dak[GSV]

    I am actually a teacher atm but am a qualified outdoor pursuits instrutor too. I never wanted to teach people who dont care about the stuff i like doing so i though i'd try teaching. Now i'm thinking perhaps not - mainly cos it's way too much planning in your own time. I actually have my SPA which qualifies me to take people climbing, so would be at home prussiking up ropes. I know this would have no relevance; job wise, to tree climbing but it must be good experience :/
    I actually enjoy working outdoors and if you dress correctly it's not all that bad even in winter.

    The question is how do i earn and find time/money to get started out
    Last edited by ERU; 02-02-2005 at 09:18 PM.

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