Problem so strange I want to cry!

[Echoj7]

Hi, sorry but money is tight right now even if sold on ebay, so got to think out of the box and try a different solution. I've had a look at the PSU myself (it was my mate relaying the info) heres what it says exactly

AC input 230v Current 9.0A Frequency 50/60hz

Orange
3.3v = 22A
Red
+5V = 35A
Yellow
+12V=24A
White
-5V=0.5A
Blue
-12V=0.5A
Purple
5ab=2a

I understand what your saying about brand, I'm just not convinced its worth shelling out £50-70 on the guess that a branded PSU may fix the issue. Anywho is there any software that would help narrow down this problem with some more concerete results?

[Sema4]

If your looking for a whatswrongwithmypc.exe, then there is no such software that I am aware of....

For the record, I'm another advocate of the 'cheap PSU is false economy' club, you wouldn't buy a high performance sports car then go down the pound shop looking for hub caps for it, nor would you put cheap, low grade fuel in to it.

You asked the question, but it seems you don't like the answer, and whether you like it or not, facts are facts, however it's your money and your computer, and if your prepared to run your car on chip fat and run the risk it will blow up the engine, then you best be prepared to buy a new engine should the time come.

We see it time and again on these forums, but experience counts for nothing I guess...

Moving on, the 'instant off' that you describe could be caused by many things, including but not limited to, a thermal shut down for example. If the CPU cooling is inadequate, it will shut down the PC without warning to prevent CPU damage, it's an 'instant off' type shut down with no warning, like someone pulling the power cable out.

If you suspect this may be a possibility, then you should run everest or some other temp monitoring software to check how hot it's running.

Have you checked the event log to see if there are any indications there about system errors ? If the problem was caused by your hard drive, I would expect to see a 'disk controller failure' type error in the event log for example.

[toolsong]

Back in ye olde Socket A days when power first became an issue, my generic PSU blew and due to circumstance (limited Sunday retailers) I could only buy a name branded PSU as a replacement. It cost me $160 AUD.

If I had known beforehand the difference a quality PSU would bring to my overclocked system, I would have bought one before assembling any of my new kit. I could overclock further with far better stability.

[Hottentot]

Try running memtest to check your memory.
Orthos to check/stress your CPU
3D mark 05/06 to check/stress your GPU

Better run a CPU temperature monitoring program at the same time.

If its a PSU issue memtest will probably pass, Orthos might pass and 3d Mark will crap your system out sooner or later.

My money would be on the PSU, or an overheating system.

[Gr44]

You said you damaged the SATA Connectors... I don't know if a short circuit would cause this? though doesnt make much sense it runs for a time and then dies. You could try disabled that SATA controller on the bios ( assuming you have 2 )

That aside, a £17 PSU is not good, for any spec. I paid £35 for a PSU for an old 1.4Ghz Athlon with a 9800 card in it. You know why? Because I don't want the risk of it catching or fire or something equally dangerous.

I bought a cheapo PSU once, a Qtec, I'm sure many members on here will recall that company.... it caught on fire, luckily when I was next to it so managed to get it sorted before it went crazy. Not trying to scare you, but it's not worth skimping on a few quid over a unknown PSU.

For referance, my 720w psu was around £150 ~4 months back IIRC.

[Fabula]

If it's not the PSU, it seems like an overheating issue. Are all the fans working on chipset, cpu, gfx etc?



A cheap 600W may list that as the peak output, eg what it can put out for 30min before exploding. It may only sustainably do something like 450W. A proper (read expensive) PSU will output at that elvel for as long as needed.

[peterb]

Just compared your posted specs against a Corsair 520W

Corsair - 12 volt rails rated at 18 Amps

3.3 and 5V rails both at 24A

You couldn't buy the comp[onents for a 600W PSU for £17 - so how do the cheap manufacturers do it?

They have economies of scale so they do get parts cheaper than you can get them, but they cut back on the component specs to make them cheaper.

Then they cut back on testing and burn in (takes time - costs money) so the actual spec of the device may not even meet its design.

they cut back on regulation and overvoltage protection, so that if the PSU develops a fault (which one using substandard components is likely to) the protection that a more expensive PSU would have in that eventuality isn't there - so bang gfoes mobo/CPU/disks/memory or any combination of those.

Oh yes - not much warranty either.

And finally they exaggerate the specs anyway.

My guess is that the PSU isn't up to the job. When the system is lightly loaded it just about copes, but when you start running demanding tasks (and game playing is pretty demanding) the regulation on the PSU is so bad that the voltages drop - and the PC dies. If you want to prove me (and other more experienced posters) wrong, get a voltmeter and monitor the output voltages under load - or better, just shell out about £50 on a decent PSU.

Like this

Computer hardware and software at amazing prices, available online from Scan Computers UK

or this

Computer hardware and software at amazing prices, available online from Scan Computers UK

[Agent]

If cheap PSU where dangrous or below the advertised wattage, they wouldn't sell them.

I know its been said, I just want to make sure its heard

This is 10000000% untrue.
Search these forums for "Q-tec" for example

[iranu]

midway through Fire & Flames....zooom switched off again!

It's the fire and flames that makes us suspect the PSU. Where did you see the fire and flames? Was this coming from the PSU? Did you have the side of the case off and saw flames coming from the motherboard or graphics card? Does the PSU have a burnt electronic smell to it?

I doubt the sata pins would be to blame because the PC was working "fine". If there had been a short then the it is most likely that the system would have issues on powering up.

A PSU with 24A on the 12V rail should power your system however a £17 600W PSU will be of the lowest build quality possible. See peterb's post.

You should be able to get a full refund from the place you bought the PSU from. £45 will get you a model that will power your system (if it's not fried) eg Computer hardware and software at amazing prices, available online from Scan Computers UK 33A on 12V rail and 5 year warranty.

[Sema4]

It's the fire and flames that makes us suspect the PSU. Where did you see the fire and flames? Was this coming from the PSU? Did you have the side of the case off and saw flames coming from the motherboard or graphics card? Does the PSU have a burnt electronic smell to it?

ummm, I wouldn't take 'fire and flames' too literally when used in the context of 'guitar hero iii'

Blue Monster: Guitar Hero III: Through the Fire and Flames

[sleepyhead]

In all honesty, the advice given here is very sound (after all I have posted problems here and had a correct diagnosis after following the advice given on this forum) so please try not to dismiss the idea that the PSU is possibly at fault.

Just to add my 2p on the "q-tec" front;

Yes we had one installed and it almost caught fire. Puff of grey smoke out the back and "boof". Dead PSU within a few months of ownership/installation. Luckily it didn't seem to take any other components with it. Suppose this was a couple of years back now.

[spiral out]

Got to add to this thread and say that i agree with everyone else here i think the power supply is not upto the job.

The corsair 450w PSU should be fine. I really can't see the point of splashing out on a computer and not paying £20 - £30 more for a decent power supply, it just doesn't make sense.

[Blitzen]

I fail to see how the different in brand would resolve this issue, considering I had the exact same issue with a 400w. I've never used branded PSU and I've never had a problem. If cheap PSU where dangrous or below the advertised wattage, they wouldn't sell them.

I appericate the help though but buying a branded PSU is not a solution IMO

You bought an 'El Cheapo', rubbish, no name, low amperage, PSU that obviously delivers dirty power.
If its not changed it will destroy the rest of your system (if it hasnt already).

If that thing delivers half of the stated 600W i would be astonished.

I understand what your saying about brand, I'm just not convinced its worth shelling out £50-70 on the guess that a branded PSU may fix the issue. Anywho is there any software that would help narrow down this problem with some more concerete results?

How much more advice do you need????? YOu have 2 pages worth already saying EXACTLY the same thing.

YOu have 2 choices:

1. Change your PSU for something that may actually be up to the job...you have had plenty of recommendations.
or
2. Be stubborn and carry on using the rubbish you are trying with at the moment. Then, post back when it dies, killing most, if not all of you components, and we can all say you were warned.

This is 1000000% a PSU issue.

[Agent]

Even if its not a PSU issue, you simply can not trouble shoot with a crap PSU in your system. A bad PSU can make anything else look like its at fault.

If you change your PSU and still have the same problem, its still not wasted money. That system simply should not be run on that PSU.

[iranu]

ummm, I wouldn't take 'fire and flames' too literally when used in the context of 'guitar hero iii'

Blue Monster: Guitar Hero III: Through the Fire and Flames

lol. I went back to read the OP remembering the fire bit and not knowing anything about guitar hero obviously mistook the meaning.

[Echoj7]

Hi thanks for the comments, as it turned out it was the harddrive with the faulty SATA connection. I installed windows onto another HD on a small partiton, ran the PC on various games and benchmarks and it didnt crash after 6hrs of stress testing (And is yet to crash after running for 30hrs)

I then did the ultimtate test and managed to complete Fire & Flames on easy! (Its stupidly hard even on medium) Bunged in the faulty HDD and powered off at the same point.

In the distant future I'll be getting a new PSU - thanks for the advice & help.