USB-C Release 2.1 spec raises power delivery max to 240W

[HEXUS]

Increase in the limit should mean more charging options for powerful laptops.

Read more.

[Ulti]

This is really interesting stuff, not only for laptops but think of desktops too - especially mini ITX and so on.

Maybe not so relevant for the latest power hungry GPUs but my desktop with a Ryzen 5 3600 and GTX 1070 consume around 250W at 100% load. In theory if I underclocked a bit, I would not need a standard PSU and my whole PC could be powered by USB-C. Obviously not quite so straightforward due to the 24 pin CPU plug, 8 pin CPU, 8 pin GPU plug all needing power but potential is certainly there.

I wonder how big the wall plugs/adapters will be for these and how efficient/hot they will run. I bought my gf one of those 65W GaN PD plugs for her laptop as it support PD and it's a neat little piece of work. Doesn't heat up too much either from what I remember but haven't done much testing in all honesty.

EDIT: Did some quick googling and saw this 240W PD charger:
https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/t...-with-pd-3-0#/

Looks like they'll still be pretty compact and it quotes a 94% efficiency rating so in theory, assuming that means 240/0.94 = 255W drawn from the wall, it should be 15W to dissipate as heat which shouldn't be too bad.

Assuming the same calculation for a 65W one, 65/0.94 = 69W so I guess that only has 4W to dissipate which I guess explains why they don't get hot at all and only a bit warm.

[CAT-THE-FIFTH]

I hope there is reliable certification for cables otherwise I can see a lot of fires happening.

[philehidiot]

I hope there is reliable certification for cables otherwise I can see a lot of fires happening.

Indeed, I won't be buying those sorts of cables off Ebay/Amazon...

Interestingly, I recently decided that a travel power strip off Amazon was probably dangerous and opened it up. No fuses anywhere, stray bits of wire dangling around the live connections and soldering that made even me nervous... and my soldering is awful. It was one of those multi-sockets which takes loads of different international plugs. As a result, they usually bypass a lot of the safety features for compatibility's sake and not having a fuse anywhere (not even the plug) is an utter disgrace.

There were stand offs where the fuse holder was to be attached...

An excellent device if you are planning on cooking in your hotel room (pun intended).

[kompukare]

Wiki says the voltage for USB power deliver is 20V, so to get 240W that's 12A.
Those had better be some thick cables.

[badass]

Wiki says the voltage for USB power deliver is 20V, so to get 240W that's 12A.
Those had better be some thick cables.

You've not read the article fully, have you

[philehidiot]

Wiki says the voltage for USB power deliver is 20V, so to get 240W that's 12A.
Those had better be some thick cables.

You've not read the article fully, have you

I'm assuming that at 50V/5A it'll be converted back down at the laptop side. Yay! Another thing to break in the Mac charging circuit!

[CAT-THE-FIFTH]

Indeed, I won't be buying those sorts of cables off Ebay/Amazon...

Interestingly, I recently decided that a travel power strip off Amazon was probably dangerous and opened it up. No fuses anywhere, stray bits of wire dangling around the live connections and soldering that made even me nervous... and my soldering is awful. It was one of those multi-sockets which takes loads of different international plugs. As a result, they usually bypass a lot of the safety features for compatibility's sake and not having a fuse anywhere (not even the plug) is an utter disgrace.

There were stand offs where the fuse holder was to be attached...

An excellent device if you are planning on cooking in your hotel room (pun intended).

I have one of those too which I got on holiday and I made sure it was used with a fused adaptor beforehand.

[philehidiot]

I have one of those too which I got on holiday and I made sure it was used with a fused adaptor beforehand.

I'd consider opening it up and checking the internals. The one I got was a prime candidate for swapping a fused plug into it or even just putting a fuse in line where it was designed to go. But even then the wiring was so janky and the sheath on the flex wasn't up to spec. If it's anything like the one I have, it's easily opened with no risk to the device and any severe non-cromulence is immediately evident. For me it was near direct shorts from live to earth. Probably fine unless you have a device connected with the casing earthed and / or are abroad somewhere with questionable wiring / RCD protection.