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Thread: How hard is it, to fit Thermostatic Valves?

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    Seething Cauldron of Hatred TheAnimus's Avatar
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    How hard is it, to fit Thermostatic Valves?

    You have to drain the whole loop right?

    I've realised I've a few that could do with replacing, as it appears they are jammed on no matter what, I'm in a hard water area an I assume they are 25 years old.

    So I'm asking, from a non-professionals point of view, how hard is it?
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    Treasure Hunter extraordinaire herulach's Avatar
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    Re: How hard is it, to fit Thermostatic Valves?

    No. Just the rad, you can get stopper kits (I've used them when replacing a trv and once when changing to a towel radiator and putting chrome ones on) still needs an empty rad so probably rebalancing etc, but much less faff (especially if your muppet plumber mounted the drain behind a bloody cupboard about an inch under the worktop) tool station part 31768.

    If you're really quick you could probably grab a cap (not a stop end, they'll be the wrong sex) and get away without draining the rad. I was decorating at the time so needed it empty to move it so didn't try.

    Ninja: if you can turn a spanner, bleed a radiator and mop up after its easy.

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    The late but legendary peterb - Onward and Upward peterb's Avatar
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    Re: How hard is it, to fit Thermostatic Valves?

    Depends on the system. If it is a vented system with a header tank, you need to block the vent and the feed from the tank. The stopper kits referred to by herulech usually contain two bungs for that purpose. You can then make one break in the system and in theory air pressure prevents too much leakage.

    In practice, you may find that air gets into the radiator in the same way that water drains from a full inverted bottle, and some water may drain from the feed pipe, but there will be much less. If you have a lockshield valve on the radiator outlet, shutting that off enables you to drain the radiator. You will probably need to change the 'tail' that screws into the radiator.

    If the system is pressurised, no header tank, you will need to de-pressurise it, and possibly drain it. If you are changing all the valves on a vented system, you may find it quicker and easier to drain it and do them all in one go.

    Flush the system at the same time, and add a corrosion inhibitor when you refill it.. Then re-pressurise an unvented system to the correct operating pressure. You also need to ensure that there is a bypass so that if all the TRvs are shut, there is still a closed circuit for water to flow round. That is true whether TRVs are fitted or not, but you need to make sure that you don't inadvertently close that off, there may be a simple bypass, or sometimes a towel rail is used for that purpose. (It won't have radiator valves if it is being used for a bypass)
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    Seething Cauldron of Hatred TheAnimus's Avatar
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    Re: How hard is it, to fit Thermostatic Valves?

    Honestly if it wasn't for the fact my light cream carpets are really at the end of their life and I've no money for such replacements I'd have a crack at this next day off....

    As is, I think I'm a little bit scared about carpet damage, I fear to think what the water is like in the loop. So I think I'll take the puss option and wait, hopefully 2014 will be kind and I'll have the dosh to replace everything, maybe go digital.

    The thought of the corrosion inhibitor is another reason, I hadn't thought about that, the only type I've used before stain like the devil....

    It's just given the current situation of valve wear I reckon I'll burn an extra £30 or so this winter. So it's not as if replacing them all will pay for itself just yet.
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