I need to find a bulletproof Invisible lock I can use like thison a small wood door , does any one have any suggestions?
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I need to find a bulletproof Invisible lock I can use like thison a small wood door , does any one have any suggestions?
That'll be this one then
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Remock-Locke.../dp/B009W1QM1E
I think this is the same as the one you linked to. It is Korean in origin (Hyundai). Not cheap, but probably more reliable buying it from Amazon in the UK, rather than eBay from the US.
how secure is the key encryption? presumably it's sufficiently robust that people can't simply open your door with a master fobb like those cars that were in the press recently?
longevity wise, will they still be robust in say 5 years time?
Most important question is 'are they covered by insurance'.
Also remembering that alarms/etc often increase the chance of left, rather than lower it.
Worth checking with your insurance company. Is this intended to be a primary lock or a secondary one? By that I mean one that you would use when you are in the property (to let someone in remotely) or as a primary lock which is the main form of defence?
If it is secondary, there maybe lower cost alternatives, such as an electromagnetic latch plate that releases the main lock although that would have to be fitted carefully so as not to compromise the strength of the door jam.
If you are in (say) a block of flats with a secure common entrance, other security considerations apply. Hacking attacks might be harder (and as these locks are relatively uncommon, a potential attacker may not consider an electronic attack)
How would a locksmith get past that when it fails and you are on the wrong side of the door?
That consideration applies to any form of non- key operated lock though, including mechanical digital locks. The answer is usually some form of brute force solution. (Unless a copy of the code or, in this case, a spare transmitter, has been left with a trusted friend)
I would be wary about using it as the sole primary security device. There is a warning led when the battery level falls to a level where they need changing, but if that is ignored, it looks as if it fails open.
It is difficult to assess the strength of the device, but from the illustrations, it seems to be surface mounted, while a conventional mortise lock is mortised into the door which, if done properly, can give extra strength against forcing.
Where it does offer advantages over a conventional lock is its resistance to picking and other forms of physical attack (apart from brute force).
The encryption security is 'probably' OK, although the technical detail is sparse.
You need to assess the risk of a likely attack, and the ability of the lock to resist them.
As I mentioned earlier, you could use a remote latch release in conjunction with a conventional lock, but of course a conventional lock may be vulnerable to picking etc. Or you could use this device like a night latch, good enough for general use, but supplemented by a conventional (mortise) lock for maximum security, for example at night or if you are Albert in the premises.
However, that is a judgement call that only you can make, based on your particular circumstances.
An oubliette? :)
I think the batteries are disposable rather than rechargeable. I don't think the batteries hold the lock closed, they just throw the bolt. Presumably at low voltage, they throw the lock open. I presume the lock is on the closed side of the space the trapdoor gives access to, in which case failing open is essential ( unless the space is occupied....)
Here's my concept design - all freehand on PAINT !
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/651/2...1aa0654a_o.jpg
Just heard that there is concrete foundation underneath the whole building & lawn , will this rule out my trap door , or should there still be some space available for my trap door / storage compartment ?
Depends on what type of floor the property has.
If it's poured/solid concrete, you'll struggle to get a batcave under there without major works.
If it's suspended concrete, it may be possible to remove a concrete block, but I wouldn't fancy doing that.
If it's suspended timber you may be able to get under it with relative ease. Floorboards are easily lifted.
What are you going to be keeping safe in the batcave? If it's small trinkets, a floor safe might be a better/easier option.
a floor safe is sort of what I had in mind , but ones I see are not really stealth but more like this
whereas what I needwould need to be more like this. but prob no bigger than 10 x 10 " for the trapdoor.
Here is another underside / upsides down view of my utopian vision ... all On PAINT !
not exactly to perfection , but you get the idea...I hope
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/588/2...5687b5a2_n.jpg
It all depends on what floor you have to butcher and how much room you have beneath said floor.
Love the idea in the second video (despite hating the video!) and with your 1:1 scale professional blueprint above, I think you've got potential. Could you put a floor safe beneath the secret trapdoor? You've got stealth and security then.
Yeah the 2nd video is my preference too - just not the bloody awful music .. trouble is my joints are so bad i cant even do the basics to investigate whats there or I would ( the cheapest / only quote I got was 25 quid an hr ) :(
Where the hell are all the cheap Foreign workers when you need them ?? :censored:
be careful about going through a ground bearing floor. You need to know whether it is a raft slab in which case it is part of the main foundation system, or whether it is simply a floor slab. Even in the latter case you will be breaching waterproofing, possibly insulation too. You could compromise the performance of the room above, and create a cold and damp problem. Forming any sort of excavation for permanent construction within 3m of a party wall or boundary requires notification under the Party Wall Act 1996, and you may need a party wall award. You will also need to notify building control and obtain building control approval. You may require planning consent - particularly if in the inner boroughs of London where increasing restrictions are being placed on people constructing into the ground.
NB also to check for any buried services - undertake a utility asset search and tracked CCTV drainage survey. Also CAT scan as a minimum before digging anything near to or under an existing building.
Edit - just saw the links above. That\'s so small it\'s very unlikely it would need Party Wall Award or the like, so long as you don\'t go too deep with it. Sorry, for some reason I thought you trying to build a cellar room.
Getting sued by disappointed clients if my recent experiences are anything to go by. 3 different projects, 3 different contractors, 3 different law suits. The old adage is true - pay peanuts, get monkeys. And it's only getting worse with CDM2015 now extending the regulations to include private domestic properties. Most small contractors don't have a clue what to do to comply with it, yet it is the client who can be held liable!