Cheers. That's the sort of thing.
Problem is that the fitting seems to be one sealed unit with no obvious starter.
Is there a sealed unit that I could just wire in ? There's one of those junction bloc things under there.
Cheers. That's the sort of thing.
Problem is that the fitting seems to be one sealed unit with no obvious starter.
Is there a sealed unit that I could just wire in ? There's one of those junction bloc things under there.
Society's to blame,
Or possibly Atari.
My other half used to love, from early years, playing with a cocktail cabinet that lit up when opened, at her gramps. She got herself a lovely internally mirrored cabinet and I installed strip lights from led hut.
They had permanentish double tape backing, so I just temporarily taped them in, pending site approval, but then 6 months later the cabinet was chucked our, nvm
BTW regarding LED bulb light quality, it is NOT whether the colour temperature is: 2700K: 3000K: cool white;warm white that is important, rather, look at the colour rendering index value (aka CRI or Ra) - needs to be over 90.
Most retailers/electricians that I've spoken to don't know about CRI - they think that I mean colour temperature, very frustrating!
Cheers
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I’ve used the Lumi life from Led Hut, and the basic ones from B&Q, both without problems.
I think any branded one from a reputable retailer will be OK, I'd avoid ones from dubious sources on places like on-line auction sites, where there is scope for selling sub-standard items.
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Biscuit (02-11-2017)
Incredible that they use 10% of the power of traditional bulbs. What a time to be alive!
These are the ones I have tried, so far none of them have failed after ~6months:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ascher-dimm...eywords=ascher
Pretty cheap at the moment
I've tried Rexel and Mirrorstone - I think that they're rebranded and if I knew at the time of purchase what I know now, I would not have bought them - colour quality is poor.
Civilight and Philips Master Expertcolor have high CRI values - Philips do 25 degree and 36 degree beam angle versions.
I'm trying to find a GU10 with 60 degree beam angle and cri higher than 90, but might have to settle on the Philips Expertcolor.
Biscuit (02-11-2017)
CRI does have some fairly serious problems as a light quality measurement too, so some 90 CRI LEDs will be better than others. Some of the 90 CRI Fluorescents were awful.
What's really frustrating is that the LED manufacturers categories their products excellently. If you want to buy LEDs directly then you can choose the model, tint, efficiency, CRI rating with a pretty fine grain.
For example if you wanted a batch of White Cree XP-G3s then you'd look at the data sheet and first choose your tint, which is a version of colour temperature that operates in two dimensions. The first number ranges from 0-8 which is the colour temperature and the second ranges between purple and green tinted:
http://flashlightwiki.com/images/c/cb/Ansi-white.jpg
Let's pick a nice neutral white 4C which comes under the E4 kit.
That gives us eight efficiency options and four CRI options, ranging from 107 lumens@0.35A to 164 lumens@0.35A and 70 CRI Typical to 90 CRI minimum.
Not all combinations are available, so if we go for the 90+ CRI option it restricts us to the three least efficient bins, R3, R2 and Q5. Which one we choose would depend on our use. A strip with them all spread out would be fine with the cheaper lower efficiency models, a torch or bulb where you want maximum light output in a confined space would be better with the more efficient ones.
And yet do we get XP-G3 Q5 4C 90+ CRI stamped on the outside of our products? Nope, we get 'warm white' (or 'cool white', the marketing crossover point varies considerably).
You could argue that protective glass/plastic will unevenly absorb the light coming out of the LED so the product doesn't produce the same. That's true, but it's still much more accurate than the currently available information.
Screwfix, reason being they are cheap and you have a store nearby in most cases as you are bound to get ones that pop within the warranty, the latest offerings are a lot more reliable and have I think a 2 year warranty. output per watt is good, colour is good.
If you are replacing 12v AC ones then I bought Samsung from CPC as they work with either AC or DC 12v
https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrica...ttingtype=gu10
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Necropost!!!
I just got done fitting and wiring in a few of those 2' T8 lights from LED-Hut.
Not bad... quite bright, but also quite localised light. Good thing is I used a bunch of junction boxes, so I can add more in future, if I feel the need.
Zak33 (31-05-2018)
and I purchased an LED baton light yesterday which is going in with the flood lights this weekend
Originally Posted by Advice Trinity by Knoxville
40w
I'm hoping for power!!!!!
Originally Posted by Advice Trinity by Knoxville
I still havent had a single one of my GU10 bulbs fail either which is good. I've actually bought quite a lot more and also a different types, the standard cheaper Ascher ones are really crazy bright, so in the lounge I bought more expensive, but less intense ones.
In the Kitchen I have the Sainsburys ones that I swapped off my mum (I accidentally bought some dimmable ones, didn't need them. She accidentally bought none-dimmable, but needed dimmable). My honest recommendation to anyone looking at dimmable would be to stick to eco-halogen though. LED dimmables I have tried have all worked, but not had a great range.
I also bought some for the little girls room that have RGBW so she can have a bit of fun with them. Be careful on that front, a lot of the ones available on Amazon are actually the wrong size to use in ceiling fittings.
Zak33 (01-06-2018)
Part of me wants to see what wattage I can get 2' T8s in... part of me thinks this defeats the energy-saving purpose of going LED... and another, slightly more practical part of me thinks I might be able to get some proper-powerful 4' tubes of some kind up along the roof apex...!
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