Printable View
This is PeterB's fault :-)
new house, new garage, need it like daylight in there please
LED Hut was the suggestion... got a bit bemused cos I iz old.
https://www.ledhut.co.uk/led-strip-l...etre-roll.html
5m long? or 5x1m or what ? I'm bemused...
5m long light? Cant be......
I assume I need a transformer but do I need 1 75w per 75w "tube"
It's a roll of 5m. I have used them for our "truck shack" at work. You can cut them to length (there's a cut line every few cm's) and parralel them up if you want. You need 14.4W per m, so yes you would need 72W+ for the 5m length; or if you split it into 2 x 2.5m lengths which is what I did.
a ROLL?
lol... proper lol... wasn't expecting that reply :)
how do you join them? Solder?
Forgot to mention you need some of these if you decide to cut the strip up. There are 2 different widths (8mm and 10mm, or 12mm, can't quite remember). They clip around the end of the strip onto 2 contacts you can see in the picture, which is why you can cut across them.
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/led-cables/8904468/
You can then either solder or crimp extensions onto them. The LED driver I had then just had a couple of screws to connect the strips to.
Edit:
Some better pictures of them in a roll: -
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/c/displa...exible-arrays/
this is a whole new world!
They're pretty great, i got a roll from ebay for quite cheap, come with a laptop adapter basically to power it.
I think i got 5m but i could do worth more, just not got around to it.
Bear in mind there ARE different types of LED, i dont recall exactly but some are brighter than others so you need less for the same length.
https://www.ledhut.co.uk/search/?q=t8
You need t8 lamps/luminares (t8 refers to the pin connections on a conventional fluorescent tube)
The tubes themselves just need a 240v connection. the inverter is built in. The liminaires are IP65 rated (probably overengineered for a garage, but if it isnt heated it will be damp. Again they just need a 240v connection - no need to faff about with rolls of LEDs, inverters ('transformers') or any control gear. They are just plug and play.
THEY ARE JUST PLUG AND PLAY AREN'T THEY PETE?
Mains cable in the end, 240v, and they do the biz.
I think that's the ticket bud :)
thank you.
So those T8 fittings - Do you wire them in series, or does each need its own separate cable off a junction box?
Obviously I don't know much about this, but it's suggested that my old 40w fluro tube is something like 3000 lumens...? Those T8 tubes don't sound very bright at 1600lm.
Or is this just down to how each works differently?
Zak - Would it be a good idea to merge my thread with yours, perhaps, to save tennising peeps back and forth?
https://forums.hexus.net/home-garden...-workshop.html
Wow,RGB has now spread from Asus ROG to Zak's house.
When you buy LED bulbs, dont get cool white. Makes everything feel really cold as they have a "blue" tint.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ttaskmaster
Each luminaire is self contained. You treat them like a conventional fluorescent luminaire and wire them in parallel direct to a 230 volt AC supply. (NB, this does not apply to the rolls of leds on a tape - which are low voltage and need appropriate control gear)
So you can use RGB to make pure white??Quote:
Originally Posted by Biscuit
Finally a use for RGB!!
All hail the RGB!!
OK - I have T4 Fluro tubes under my kitchen cabinets.
Is there a simple LED solution for these ?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is T5 - I bought one this year - seems OK
Dont forget that you may need to remove any ballast equipment and/or short out any starter (and if you do, you should label any fitting accordingly)
Cheers. That's the sort of thing.
Problem is that the fitting seems to be one sealed unit with no obvious starter.
Is there a sealed unit that I could just wire in ? There's one of those junction bloc things under there.
My other half used to love, from early years, playing with a cocktail cabinet that lit up when opened, at her gramps. She got herself a lovely internally mirrored cabinet and I installed strip lights from led hut.
They had permanentish double tape backing, so I just temporarily taped them in, pending site approval, but then 6 months later the cabinet was chucked our, nvm
BTW regarding LED bulb light quality, it is NOT whether the colour temperature is: 2700K: 3000K: cool white;warm white that is important, rather, look at the colour rendering index value (aka CRI or Ra) - needs to be over 90.
Most retailers/electricians that I've spoken to don't know about CRI - they think that I mean colour temperature, very frustrating!
Cheers
Something lie this?Quote:
Originally Posted by Phage
https://www.wholesaleledlights.co.uk...8aAhb4EALw_wcB
or
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_In...ngs/index.html
On a related note, has anyone tried the GU10 LED lights and have particular brands they can recommend.
I have tried the Ascher ones on Amazon (Warm white, dimmable and non-dimmable), so far so good.
I’ve used the Lumi life from Led Hut, and the basic ones from B&Q, both without problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by Biscuit
I think any branded one from a reputable retailer will be OK, I'd avoid ones from dubious sources on places like on-line auction sites, where there is scope for selling sub-standard items.
Incredible that they use 10% of the power of traditional bulbs. What a time to be alive!
These are the ones I have tried, so far none of them have failed after ~6months:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ascher-dimm...eywords=ascher
Pretty cheap at the moment
I've tried Rexel and Mirrorstone - I think that they're rebranded and if I knew at the time of purchase what I know now, I would not have bought them - colour quality is poor.Quote:
Originally Posted by Biscuit
Civilight and Philips Master Expertcolor have high CRI values - Philips do 25 degree and 36 degree beam angle versions.
I'm trying to find a GU10 with 60 degree beam angle and cri higher than 90, but might have to settle on the Philips Expertcolor.
Phillips are so expensive though :(
CRI does have some fairly serious problems as a light quality measurement too, so some 90 CRI LEDs will be better than others. Some of the 90 CRI Fluorescents were awful.Quote:
Originally Posted by snedger
What's really frustrating is that the LED manufacturers categories their products excellently. If you want to buy LEDs directly then you can choose the model, tint, efficiency, CRI rating with a pretty fine grain.
For example if you wanted a batch of White Cree XP-G3s then you'd look at the data sheet and first choose your tint, which is a version of colour temperature that operates in two dimensions. The first number ranges from 0-8 which is the colour temperature and the second ranges between purple and green tinted:
http://flashlightwiki.com/images/c/cb/Ansi-white.jpg
Let's pick a nice neutral white 4C which comes under the E4 kit.
That gives us eight efficiency options and four CRI options, ranging from 107 lumens@0.35A to 164 lumens@0.35A and 70 CRI Typical to 90 CRI minimum.
Not all combinations are available, so if we go for the 90+ CRI option it restricts us to the three least efficient bins, R3, R2 and Q5. Which one we choose would depend on our use. A strip with them all spread out would be fine with the cheaper lower efficiency models, a torch or bulb where you want maximum light output in a confined space would be better with the more efficient ones.
And yet do we get XP-G3 Q5 4C 90+ CRI stamped on the outside of our products? Nope, we get 'warm white' (or 'cool white', the marketing crossover point varies considerably).
You could argue that protective glass/plastic will unevenly absorb the light coming out of the LED so the product doesn't produce the same. That's true, but it's still much more accurate than the currently available information.
Screwfix, reason being they are cheap and you have a store nearby in most cases as you are bound to get ones that pop within the warranty, the latest offerings are a lot more reliable and have I think a 2 year warranty. output per watt is good, colour is good.Quote:
Originally Posted by Biscuit
If you are replacing 12v AC ones then I bought Samsung from CPC as they work with either AC or DC 12v
https://www.screwfix.com/c/electrica...ttingtype=gu10
Necropost!!!
I just got done fitting and wiring in a few of those 2' T8 lights from LED-Hut.
Not bad... quite bright, but also quite localised light. Good thing is I used a bunch of junction boxes, so I can add more in future, if I feel the need.
and I purchased an LED baton light yesterday which is going in with the flood lights this weekend :)
You mean the LED one is 40w, or is designed to replace a 40w fluorescent tube?Quote:
Originally Posted by Zak33
Mine are only 9w, but still pretty bright...
40w :)
I'm hoping for power!!!!!
I still havent had a single one of my GU10 bulbs fail either which is good. I've actually bought quite a lot more and also a different types, the standard cheaper Ascher ones are really crazy bright, so in the lounge I bought more expensive, but less intense ones.
In the Kitchen I have the Sainsburys ones that I swapped off my mum (I accidentally bought some dimmable ones, didn't need them. She accidentally bought none-dimmable, but needed dimmable). My honest recommendation to anyone looking at dimmable would be to stick to eco-halogen though. LED dimmables I have tried have all worked, but not had a great range.
I also bought some for the little girls room that have RGBW so she can have a bit of fun with them. Be careful on that front, a lot of the ones available on Amazon are actually the wrong size to use in ceiling fittings.
Part of me wants to see what wattage I can get 2' T8s in... part of me thinks this defeats the energy-saving purpose of going LED... and another, slightly more practical part of me thinks I might be able to get some proper-powerful 4' tubes of some kind up along the roof apex...!Quote:
Originally Posted by Zak33