We had a good chat about lighting a stove here on the forums so I thought we'd go forwards and discuss Top Down Fires
When I was a kid I was taught to light a little fire, and then gently add larger and larger pieces of wood above it to get it going properly. And while this works, there are a few major flaws in it. And in particular with a modern wood stove, the'y're fundamental flaws.
I am going to assume using a STOVE and good quality, well seasoned fire wood with a moisture contrent of way under 20%. The lower the better because otherwise burning wood takes up loads of energy just drying the water out from within before the firewood does a proper job or warming you up!
Right here goes - a Top Down Fire, or an Upside Down fire involves laying out your largest pieces of wood first at the base, then medium sized and finally building a little fire of kinding on the top. You light the small fire on top and as it burns, it begins to heat up the wood below it and falls in on itself to catch the lower wood alight.
But there's a more complex thing occuring - the air around the wood and the wood itself, up to about 275'C is only just letting go of the moisture and some creosote. The outter edges of the wood that are burning, are hotter, clearly, but you're not getting the full use from the wood yet.
This is primary combustion
As the wood heats up further, it begins to let out the combustible gases from within itself, and for them to burn they need a flame becuase the stove isn't hot enough yet to help the combustion. These are secondary gases. It's where LOADS of your heat comes from IF you can use these secondary gases.
If you light a fire under, like I used too....and stack wood on top of it, the combustible gases whoosh up the chimney and don't burn and you lose the benefit. Becaus there is no flame above.
If you have the fire and the associated flames ABOVE the wood, as the gases excape, they are burned better by the fire on the topand not only do you get more heat, the stove heats faster AND the chimney gets less crap in it
But we're not done
Moving on...
As the fire temp increases further (I'm talking about the core of the fire temperature, not the temp of your whole stove!!) different gases are released and they COULD burn better, but they need a mixture of the right high temp (nearly 600'C) and the right amount of oxygen.
Too much air and the temp drops too far, not enough and the combustion slows. Those secondary gases are methane and methanol, and you all know those are fuel gases... to get them to be released properly (and burn efficiently) you need a hot burn. Flushing loads of cool air in won't work - That's why we have air controls on stoves. Most stoves allow the air wash to control this and on my own stoves I have found different settings for both. Good fires, burning well but, using less wood and creating huge heat.
Finally you are left with charcoal, and that too needs to burn but its not as calorific. We still want it though and it will burn as the next layer of wood is added to the stove.
BUT remember... you are no longer in Top Down mode ... the fire is HOT and adding the logs drops the firebox temp until the door is closed and the temp comes back up.. the wood heats.. moisture is driven out.. the wood starts to burn.. the first gases are released... the flames in the stove from the last logs help them to ignite and then the secondard gases are released and it all goes again
A word of caution- before opening a stove that's been running low levels of air to reload it.. open the air intake full for a minute. It will burn off the gases I have described above . If you don't do that you CAN get a sheet of flame erupt out of the stove. I know.. I have acheived it![]()


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and not only do you get more heat, the stove heats faster AND the chimney gets less crap in it 
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