Omg What Has Gone Wrong Please Help

[G4Z]

to be honest m8, I would look to get a replacement, my old drive did exactly teh same thing and I got it RMA`d no problem, if u have had it 20 months I think its unlikely its under warranty.

when you delete the controllers and restart it should reinstall them at the level the HD should operate at in your case probably DMA 5. It is possible that it is repoting so many CRC`s that it is dropping to DMA 2 straight away. If it is making a clunking noise I would back all your data up right now becase its a sure fire sign its about to fail.

remember hard disks are mechanical devices its not a matter of if they fail but when. fortunatley for you HDD`s are very very very cheap atm and you can pick up a 120gb drive for around £70.

couple of weeks ago I got a brand new 160gb 8mb cache 7200 maxtor for £100, that is a lot of storage for your money

[Steve]

Well, if the POST screen says you're running UDMA 5, then it isn't your cabling or drive jumpers. It MUST be something that Windows is doing - whether this is due to a driver issue or hardware fault is unknown.

If you want to have a go - delete the "MasterDeviceTimingMode" (and Slave...) keys and reboot.

OK, this doesn't sound like the best idea ever - but windows has a habbit of fixing itself - also, export the registry section with those values in (as you already have) and put them somewhere you can get to easily - then if it goes wrong - boot to safe mode and just merge the .reg files with the registry again.

[bigjonnyauk]

unts right mate i did that and rebooted still the same i think we are beat but i still cant understand why it is saying ultra dma mode 5 in the post screen

as gaz said maybe my drive is riddled with that many errors it windows is picking it up and reducing it straight the way i just dont know

what do you think i mean i aint that very advanced in these areas and have done stuff you said that i didnt even know exsisted, so even if we fail you have taught me some very valuble information that i never knew lol

@gaz yeah i know a hard drive is cheap enough and my data is already backed up mate

but i would need to add the cost of a original windows xp to that as this is a old old version i got from ahem ahem a mate i cant even get sp1 on

was gonna hold on as saving for a new system but it aint gonna be yet so may have to shell out what i have saved already damn



unless there is something else we can try lol

[Steve]

Go the drive manufacturer's website and download their disk checking tool - it'll probalby be a floppy you create and boot from.

Then you'll be able to see if the drive is OK (though those tools aren't always right, lol.)

[bigjonnyauk]

well thanks for sticking with me on this

got the dft tool from ibm it made a bootable floppy booted up did the advanced test

came up

ok 0x00 whatever that means but it reported no errors and gave me no fix options so that must be ok

[bigjonnyauk]

ok ok calm down mr mannering i think i may have sorted this prob!!!!!!!!!

right i just happened to read on ibm site that a faulty dvd/rom may slow down things

i do have a fairly old dvdrom an affrey one

WELL I HAVE DONE THE FOLLOWING

i have just attached the ide cable from h/d to mobo as master with no slave i left the dvdrom out completly and rebooted my sytem went into ide devices and now my current transfer rate between hard drive and comp is now showing as DMA ULTRA 5

as i have tried severel leads in the h/d and dvdrom i can rule out a faulty lead

that leaves me with the assumption that my dvdrom is faulty it has been playing up very slightly but only on reading disc i got this 2 years ago

so you think that is prob guys cuz im gona order a new one in the next 30 mins from ebuyer lol i dont have a spare to test

[Steve]

Stick it on the other IDE channel and test it on there - perhaps the IDE controller on it is just bitchy with your hard drive.

Or, perhaps your hard drive is jumpered to be master with no slave and that's causing the problem?

[bigjonnyauk]

RIGHT ITS UPDATE TIME LOL LOL

a few test i have done and the results

h/d>mobo= ultra dma5 mode
hd>cdwriter=ultra dma 5 and ultra dma2 for writer
cdwriter>ide2=ultra dma 2
hd>dvdrom>mobo=ulra dma 2 and udma2 for dvdrom
dvdrom>ide2= udma2

so in conclusion i dont think there is anything wrong with the bus on the mobo i think there just maybe a prob with this drive as the cd writer and h/d connected are showing normal results but dvdrom on its own is showing normal

anyways at the minute i have my h/d and cdwriter as master and slave

and my dvdrom as master on ide2

i have ordered a new dvdrom sony(litoen rebagde)

but will i have any probs burning as writer is now connected to h/d

and what you think of results unts

[Steve]

The results are exactly as I expected.

If your CD writer has buffer underrun protection you should have no problems burning from HD to it.

On a plus side, if you install software from CD's using the DVD drive - they should install a little quicker than when it and the HDD were on the same channel.

[bigjonnyauk]

so when my new dvdrom comes you think it would be ok to revert back to my previous setup or just put it straight onto the ide2 channel

also i would like to thank you very much for all your help you stuck it out with me where others fell by the wayside


stick around cuz next week my aerolite4 cpu fan comes and i gotta install it lol

got a good idea to do it but when i was cleaning current standard heatsink i noticed that the thermal pad had melted itself to the top of the processer whats the best way to get this off so its nice and smooth

someone suggested a credit card to scrape it off ?????

[Steve]

I could go through the reasons to have the drives set up whichever way for ages - just go with whatever setup you think brings the least conflicts to the type of stuff you do (CD copying, burning from HDD, program installation etc.)

Thermal pads are a load of rubbish - they're cheap and nasty. You need something like arctic silver. Credit cards are great for scraping thermal pads from heatsinks, however this is a used pad, so it might be more tricky. Have some isoprophyll alcohol handy to wipe down the CPU, perhaps use a razor blade to get the pad off - just don't go etching things into the CPU die, hehe.

If you do want to use something like arctic silver instead of the supplied pad, follow the instructions (eg www.arcticsilver.com) and make sure that if the pad comes pre-attached to the heatsink, that you remove it properly and give the heatsink base a good clean before you start applying the new stuff.

Any problems, just make a thread here.

[bigjonnyauk]

yeah might invest in some of that artic silver but this heat sink comes with a copper circle on it so would i need to put it on there

ah blow it ill start a new thread later

[G4Z]

glad its all sorted mate. would agree with unts on the artic silver tho, great stuff. I just use thermal grease tho because that all I have around atm but it is still far better than using the TIM that comes with the heatsink.

[Steve]

Originally posted by bigjonnyauk
yeah might invest in some of that artic silver but this heat sink comes with a copper circle on it so would i need to put it on there

Yes and no, reading the arctic silver instructions will make things clearer.