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Thread: Quad Core Thread: Overclocking, Cooling, Motherboards, Troubleshooting & General Info

  1. #81
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    If you go with a Thermalright, or zalman, they come with a backplate..well, at least some of them do.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blitzen View Post
    stupid betond belief.
    You owe it to yourself to click here really.

  2. #82
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    • daza's system
      • Motherboard:
      • DFI P35 (the green one)
      • CPU:
      • X3210 @ 3.6ghz 1.38v
      • Memory:
      • OCZ Sli PC8500 @ 1050 mhz
      • Storage:
      • 6x 160gb hitachi Deskstars.
      • Graphics card(s):
      • 8800GTS (640mb) @ 630/2000
      • PSU:
      • 750w Corsair PSU
      • Case:
      • Lian LI V2000
      • Monitor(s):
      • 2x 19" daewoo @ 1440x900
      • Internet:
      • 8meg BT.
    Right looks like I'm stable 3ish hrs of orthos and a few hours of 2142, will leave orthos running in the background for tonight.

    Final stats are 3.4ghz (360x9) @1.30v in windows 1.35v in bios, vtt is 1.3v, mch is at 1.45v in bios 1.50 in windows, temps are 53~55c through all cores.

    And what I will say is use the line of thermal compound like cluck linked to as I just put a circle on like I do with my other CPU's, just used the line method and dropped 5c off my temps.

    Oh and can someone pass me another motherboard as mine wont go above 360fsb with this Quad.

    And all my pwms are loading round the 70c mark even with watercooling.

  3. #83
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    Yeah, those PWMs do get hot, wait till you get to 1.6v/500fsb
    Quote Originally Posted by Blitzen View Post
    stupid betond belief.
    You owe it to yourself to click here really.

  4. #84
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    • daza's system
      • Motherboard:
      • DFI P35 (the green one)
      • CPU:
      • X3210 @ 3.6ghz 1.38v
      • Memory:
      • OCZ Sli PC8500 @ 1050 mhz
      • Storage:
      • 6x 160gb hitachi Deskstars.
      • Graphics card(s):
      • 8800GTS (640mb) @ 630/2000
      • PSU:
      • 750w Corsair PSU
      • Case:
      • Lian LI V2000
      • Monitor(s):
      • 2x 19" daewoo @ 1440x900
      • Internet:
      • 8meg BT.
    I know got them upto 110c on air before scared the living hell out of me.

    Think I'll keep these clocks as my 24/7 speeds and start pumping up the speed tomorrow to see how far it can go.

  5. #85
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    Right, I now have a backplane, which I nicked from a Zalman cooler and drilled the mounts out of. My full load temps (still using the D-Tek Fuzion waterblock and PA120.2 radiator) are now:

    Core0: 54°C
    Core1: 54°C
    Core2: 50°C
    Core3: 51°C

    Temps were measured using Core Temp and with Prime95 providing the load (on the maximum heat setting). Still seems a bit high for watercooling, although the Arctic Silver Ceramique will need time to cure, I suppose. I've tightened the waterblock mounting screws as tight as they will go.

    Cheers,
    Stephen

  6. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by fat jez View Post
    Right, I now have a backplane, which I nicked from a Zalman cooler and drilled the mounts out of. My full load temps (still using the D-Tek Fuzion waterblock and PA120.2 radiator) are now:

    Core0: 54°C
    Core1: 54°C
    Core2: 50°C
    Core3: 51°C

    Temps were measured using Core Temp and with Prime95 providing the load (on the maximum heat setting). Still seems a bit high for watercooling, although the Arctic Silver Ceramique will need time to cure, I suppose. I've tightened the waterblock mounting screws as tight as they will go.

    Cheers,
    Stephen
    Before;

    Tjunction 100°C
    Core 0 61°C
    Core 1 60°C
    Core 2 57°C
    Core 3 58°C

    After;

    Core0: 54°C
    Core1: 54°C
    Core2: 50°C
    Core3: 51°C

    Result, I would say

    Hooray for the backplate.

    Edit: Do the tweaking thing, you should be able to get them fairly even with a bit of fiddling.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blitzen View Post
    stupid betond belief.
    You owe it to yourself to click here really.

  7. #87
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    You can also try taking the springs off, and just use the nuts and 1 washer on each corner. Thats how I do it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blitzen View Post
    stupid betond belief.
    You owe it to yourself to click here really.

  8. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clunk View Post

    Result, I would say

    Hooray for the backplate.

    Edit: Do the tweaking thing, you should be able to get them fairly even with a bit of fiddling.
    Yeah, but are they acceptable for stock? Or do Intels really run that much hotter than I am used to?

    Not sure whether I can tweak much more, as I would imagine that cores 0 and 1 are on the same die (more or less the same temp) and the same for 2&3?

    Oh yeah, I also took my radiator out and cleaned a shed load of dust out, which might have made a difference!


    Cheers,
    Stephen

  9. #89
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    • daza's system
      • Motherboard:
      • DFI P35 (the green one)
      • CPU:
      • X3210 @ 3.6ghz 1.38v
      • Memory:
      • OCZ Sli PC8500 @ 1050 mhz
      • Storage:
      • 6x 160gb hitachi Deskstars.
      • Graphics card(s):
      • 8800GTS (640mb) @ 630/2000
      • PSU:
      • 750w Corsair PSU
      • Case:
      • Lian LI V2000
      • Monitor(s):
      • 2x 19" daewoo @ 1440x900
      • Internet:
      • 8meg BT.
    Simple question what temp you idling at.

  10. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clunk View Post
    You can also try taking the springs off, and just use the nuts and 1 washer on each corner. Thats how I do it.
    Might well give that a go. seems strange to have something in the way which is trying to push the waterblock away from the CPU. It's got a metal heat spreader on it, it's not as though the core will get crushed!

    Cheers,
    Stephen

  11. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by daza View Post
    Simple question what temp you idling at.
    Idle, is fluctuating slightly, but currently:

    Core0: 42°C
    Core1: 39°C
    Core2: 36°C
    Core3: 40°C

    Cheers,
    Stephen

  12. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by fat jez View Post
    Yeah, but are they acceptable for stock? Or do Intels really run that much hotter than I am used to? Lets not forget that its a quad core CPU. It runs hotter than a dual core C2D.

    Not sure whether I can tweak much more, as I would imagine that cores 0 and 1 are on the same die (more or less the same temp) and the same for 2&3? Yes they are, but the tweaking thing works, try it.

    Oh yeah, I also took my radiator out and cleaned a shed load of dust out, which might have made a difference! Could well have done.


    Cheers,
    Stephen
    Try taking the springs off as mentioned above..you dont need to have the nuts as tight as they will go, if you do that, it can have a negative effect on temps.

    Also, keep in mind that if the waterblock is just a fraction out from being flat on the IHS, your temps will be affected, thats why you need to do the tweak thing (see the first post in the thread for how to do it).
    Quote Originally Posted by Blitzen View Post
    stupid betond belief.
    You owe it to yourself to click here really.

  13. #93
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    • daza's system
      • Motherboard:
      • DFI P35 (the green one)
      • CPU:
      • X3210 @ 3.6ghz 1.38v
      • Memory:
      • OCZ Sli PC8500 @ 1050 mhz
      • Storage:
      • 6x 160gb hitachi Deskstars.
      • Graphics card(s):
      • 8800GTS (640mb) @ 630/2000
      • PSU:
      • 750w Corsair PSU
      • Case:
      • Lian LI V2000
      • Monitor(s):
      • 2x 19" daewoo @ 1440x900
      • Internet:
      • 8meg BT.
    And now how hot (about-ish) is your room and is your rad warm to the touch as it should be nice and cold, as I personally suspect the amount of air going through the rad to be the culprit either that or the pump, as for stock there still pretty hot as I'm on 55c on all cores at 1.3v and 3.2ghz

  14. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clunk View Post
    Try taking the springs off as mentioned above..you dont need to have the nuts as tight as they will go, if you do that, it can have a negative effect on temps.
    OK, I've done that, but I do have the nuts as tight as I can get them. How tight should they be?


    Quote Originally Posted by Clunk View Post
    Also, keep in mind that if the waterblock is just a fraction out from being flat on the IHS, your temps will be affected, thats why you need to do the tweak thing (see the first post in the thread for how to do it).
    I'll go back and read your first post again. Is it a case of perhaps slackening one at a time and seeing what happens?

    Cheers,
    Stephen

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    Quote Originally Posted by daza View Post
    And now how hot (about-ish) is your room and is your rad warm to the touch as it should be nice and cold, as I personally suspect the amount of air going through the rad to be the culprit either that or the pump, as for stock there still pretty hot as I'm on 55c on all cores at 1.3v and 3.2ghz
    Room is about 23-24°C. Radiator is cool to the touch. Pump is a Alphacool DDC.


    Idle is now after some playing with the tension on the nuts.
    Core0: 39°C
    Core1: 36°C
    Core2: 34°C
    Core3: 38°C

    Cheers,
    Stephen

  16. #96
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    Just reapply the thermal paste, as per the first post (maybe a touch less).

    Push the block onto the screws and hold it flat aginst the CPU with your thumb, or finger so that all the pressure is in the middle.

    Loosely fit all the nuts with one washer, and make sure that you tighten them down evenly, because if you do one of them, it lifts the opposite corner of the block up, and you loose contact. So, make sure they are evenly tightened so that there is no play in the block, and then do the tweak thing.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blitzen View Post
    stupid betond belief.
    You owe it to yourself to click here really.

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