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Thread: H2O cooling spec - have I done it right?

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    H2O cooling spec - have I done it right?

    hello,

    I've done my research (along with a lot of help from the members here, thanks!), and I've come up with the following spec for my new water-cooling system:

    Radiator- TFC Xchanger 360

    Pump- Laing D5

    Coolant- Feser One

    Tubing- 7/16" ID and 5/8" OD

    Fittings- Compression fittings on everything except the pump, where I will use worm drives

    Blocks- Swiftech Apogee GTZ (CPU), and Swiftech MCW-NBmax

    Reservoir- EK "multioption" 150ml

    Does this sound suitable for my system? I'll be using an Asus R2E and an i7 920 D0 (overclocked as much as possible). It will be in a Silverstone TJ-09 case. The RAM may be overclocked a little above the stock 1.600 GHz, as a result of upping the base clock. The VGA will also be OC'ed, but not by much.

    I chose the clear Feser one fluid to avoid problems with coloured gunk building up in my blocks. Will the UV tracers (can't find any non-UV version) have the same effect however?

    Thanks again!
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    DILLIGAF GoNz0's Avatar
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    Re: H2O cooling spec - have I done it right?

    check you can get compression fittings to match the tube you want, i ended up going for 1/2 internal 3/4 od as i could get them all in that size, you dont stretch pipe when using compression fittings as it changes the wall thickness and can cause a leak.

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    Re: H2O cooling spec - have I done it right?

    http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/shop/prod...oducts_id=1363

    Crazy expensive, and you need 10 of them.

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    Re: H2O cooling spec - have I done it right?

    Dude what's the point in watercooling the NB? You would be better off wcing the graphics card for silent performance/more overclocking.

    Cooling the NB does not have a lot of effect on overclocking potential. It's a bit of a waste of money tbh.

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    Senior Member AD-15's Avatar
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    Re: H2O cooling spec - have I done it right?

    hello,

    I might only end up putting compression fittings on the blocks, as this is where serious damage could occur if I get a leak.

    I have looked at possibly using 1/2" ID 3/4" OD tubing (thicker wall, and wider inside), but the holes that come pre-cut in the case I use are very slightly too small for them (maybe 1/10"?). If I do use this tubing, will the slight constriction at this point be a problem?

    If I go ahead with the 7/16" tubing, will it definitely be OK to use a tight clamp such as a worm drive on tubing that has been stretched over a 1/2" barb?

    As for cooling the NB, if it gets me even a little extra out of the board with respect to overclocking, then it's cool.

    I was going to actively cool it anyway, maybe with a fan suspended with sting or something. So I'm only looking at an extra £20 or so, and maybe a little more hassle. It'll be worth it if I can squeeze a few extra frames out of FSX though.
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    DILLIGAF GoNz0's Avatar
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    Re: H2O cooling spec - have I done it right?

    R2E gets very hot when overclocked, i did a split loop cooling on mine and imported all koolance gear for it, you hear of the problems with NB getting into the 80's and instability. im sat with mine at 40 degrees

    i was going to use comp fittings all round then found out i couldnt get them to fit on the mofset's, i had brought a bag of these on the off chance i needed a few more than the rad barbs

    http://www.pc-koolance.eu/?gclid=COr...FVtn4wodijIO2Q


    they work very well and i never had a leak, they also get round the problem of screwing up worm drives in tight spaces, all you need is a pair of long nosed plyers.

    just make sure you get the right size

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    Re: H2O cooling spec - have I done it right?

    Quote Originally Posted by AD-15 View Post
    I chose the clear Feser one fluid to avoid problems with coloured gunk building up in my blocks.
    Wrong move!

    Distilleed water and silver / biocide or PC ICE coolant

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    Senior Member AD-15's Avatar
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    Re: H2O cooling spec - have I done it right?

    hello,

    Would that combination have the same protection against corrosion though? It wouldn't be non-conductive either would it?

    EDIT: Gonzo, thanks for that suggestion. They don't look particularly tight, would it be as safe as a worm drive?
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    DILLIGAF GoNz0's Avatar
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    Re: H2O cooling spec - have I done it right?

    just as good, its really hard to clamp it open its so stiff, i have used them in place of worm drives on this build, if you put one on your finger you would squeal like a pig, run round the room and beg the other half to take if off as the pains so much you cant. they make the pipe mould to the barb so its impossible to pull it off.

    its the same design as the ones that keep hoses on the cooling systems on cars

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    Senior Member AD-15's Avatar
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    Re: H2O cooling spec - have I done it right?

    hello,

    Talking from exprience Gonzo?

    Thanks for the advice mate, I'll buy some instead of the worm drives. At least I won't have to worry about accidentally over-tightening these things.

    Incidentally, I have an issue I'm not sure how to get round. I plan on using 6 fans on the radiator. How can I hook these up, in parallel, to one fan header (or maybe two, I need to check the mobo user manual for current ratings)? Would the fan tachometer thing still work?

    If, in the future I decide to add a VGA block, will the rad be big enough?
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    Re: H2O cooling spec - have I done it right?

    Wire them up this way

    http://forum.watercoolinguk.co.uk/showthread.php?t=2410

    or

    http://www.chilledpc.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=5312

    both the same really, just depends on what you like.

    As for running them of one mobo header, you can but the mobo will work for very long. (high loading)
    Use a fan controller. Like this

    http://www.scan.co.uk/Products/AKASA...r-plus-LCD-%29

    you can link 3 fans together and then use two of the four heads on the controller.

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    Re: H2O cooling spec - have I done it right?

    no i didnt try it, im trying to describe just how stiff the bloody things are, i wasn't daft enough to try it

    if you "bodge" more than 1 fan to a motherboard header you risk 2 things, the 1st is blowing the header with the slim change of frying the board, the 2nd is 2 tacho signals will confuse things

    if you want to control all the fans and pumps theres the Mcubed t-balancer kit, not cheap though.

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    Re: H2O cooling spec - have I done it right?

    If you don't want control of you fans then you can wire them up and run them off a 3pin to molex adaptor.

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    Re: H2O cooling spec - have I done it right?

    thats all i do, one off the cpu header, other 2 on molex. they don't make musch noise (noctua) so its not a problem

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    Re: H2O cooling spec - have I done it right?

    hello,

    Thanks again guys.

    I've checked out the mobo manual, and it says each header is rated for 2A at 12V. Each Gelid fan draws .22A. So 6 of 'em in parallel drawing from one header should be fine, right? Power wise anyway.

    About the tachometer readings, couldn't I just do some snipping of a couple of yellow cables, preventing 5 of the fans from sending a signal (I'm assuming that's what they do), and just have the first fan give a tacho reading? Assuming everything is wired correctly, every fan should have 12V across it. So all the fans should be spinning about the same as the one fan that gives the tacho reading. Would that work?

    EDIT: Just had a proper look at the links, is that what's been done in the diagram?
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    Re: H2O cooling spec - have I done it right?

    Yep
    Each fan is probably rated at +/-8% (most common range of error) so there may be some minor variation
    eg if the read at 1000rpm then the others could be running between 920 and 1080 rpm
    But that's not anything to worry over.

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