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Thread: Watercooling help please

  1. #17
    Senior Member SilentDeath's Avatar
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    Nice! got any pics of the back of the copper front, bit confused how you soldered them together, did you fold it over where the peices meet, or are they just touching - which would defnatly be v hard to solder, I definialty couldnt do it nearly that good.
    Btw where did you get the copper sheet/ how much it cost?

    For my case itll probably be a bit biger than normal ones, probably with shiny panels with no holes, silver plated mmirror finnish havent thought about the design yet.

    If you find anywhere to buy silver chloride I want some Ive got plenty of silver (from melted down powder, same as used in my gpu w/b block) but I dont think it would be good idea for me to try making silver chloride from it, maybe someone on these forums knows more about this chemistry sort of stuff.... and where to get silver chloride/chlorine..

    Watercooling is much cheaper if you do DIY, most of the shops seem to have about 50% mark up on the manuf price. www.metalsontheweb.com sell copper in small quantitys, then all you need is a dremel and you can make a block (though best if you also have other tools, makes it easyer, like a 1/2" bspt tap, so you dont need to use copper pipe for the barbs)
    So far Ive made a gpu block, hdd block and il e making cpu and nb when I get round to designing them. Was going to make a res but I need a 1/2" BSPT tap first, which costs more than a res would! (I still need one for making blocks properly though!)

    Also about pumps my Laing D4 arrived today. This pump is *PERFECT* about 1/3 the size of my eheim, no mains hum (though sounds like a small hoover, but thats becuase it was cavitating a lot [sp?] when I tryed it). btw i managed to soak the floor in my room testing this, that was about 5 hours ago, still wet remember, dont let the outlet hose from the pump fall out of the bucket onto the floor, and then pick up the inlet hose, drainin the water from the outlet!

    ^ was going to post last night but i got "invalid thread" error thing...
    Last edited by SilentDeath; 24-04-2004 at 01:11 PM.

  2. #18
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    Here are some pics of the (dirty) back of the computer front. (sorry about the crappy quality i cant download pics from my Canon on the comp im using at the mo )
    Pic 7
    Pic 8

    It is edge to edge soldered no tabs. It would be difficult to use tabs in a situation like this when you are dealing with compound curves. The most dificult thing about it was bending everypart so that it formed a close joint before soldering began and then holding it in place during heating. Of course as soon as you start heating it the parts start to warp because of the heat. AS you can see in places the joint was slightly open and you end up haveing to use a lot of solder. All in all a tricky job. Will have to do more practise

    The copper was brought from a Co called Miko Metals here in Cork who are general metals suppliers and sell by the metre. If i remember correctly it was somewher in the region of 20euro per 1m^2 for 0.5mm Saying that i could be way off (i really dont remember) but it seemed relatively decent anyway.

    From a design point of view for your fully brass case i wuld lean in the direction of modding a cheap steel case so that the skeleton is still intact but the shell is of brass. I had originally though of building our case from scratch from copper but tbh when i looked into it it seem liked a massive amount of work to do by hand for little enough return unless you are a making a completly different shape of case. Just the tought of shaping all the drive cages drilling all those holes making the M/B backplane I/O shield PCI/AGP mounts etc seemed like too much .

    Ill ask a jeweller friend of mine about the Silver Chloride i'm sure she uses it. I think she has stuff sent by mail order from the UK so ill PM you if i find out.


    I Personally would never consider buying a full commercial water cooling kit. I think DIY is definatly the way to go. You get much more sense of achievement when it works and of course it doesnt cost so much!
    I dont know whether a BSPT tap is that neccesary. With a bit of careful soldering and a hose clamp u can get a perfect seal although of course this depends on the piping you are using. I can well imagine a 1/2" BSPT tap costing more than the res. Youd needa pipe tap wench for that as well .

    As for soaking the place when messing with the pump and hoses. Been there done that . Was doing it in my bedroom rather than the workshop too at the time .
    That pump must be tiny if it is 1/3 the of your Eheim.
    Last edited by turkster; 24-04-2004 at 07:58 PM. Reason: Fixed Links

  3. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by turkster
    You want to have your case front machined! Thats going to cost you! Would be cool though speccially if you could get it done with a CNC mill and have cool curves etc .
    Nothing that fancy I'm affraid. Just a flat fairly thin piece with the drive bays / Vents machined out.

    I will get some pics at a later date.

    Excellent ideas though... Might be a bit pricey.
    Last edited by Capt Doufos; 24-04-2004 at 07:13 PM.

  4. #20
    Senior Member SilentDeath's Avatar
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    Those two pics give a 404 error?
    I tryed to make my gpu block using a silver base, a folded sheet of copper for the lid - which was then silver soldered at work by my dad, and holes in the lid where I soldered two 15mm peices of pipe. This was how I learned that before soldering it really needs to be held together mechanicly first, esp aas solder isnt that strong - the stiff tuing probably would have pulled the top off and leaked everywhere. To get around this, and also aviod having to buy a tap I used polyethylene plastic for the top, which is soft, I used the brass barbs to cut there own threads after drilling with a 10mm drill (max size for the drills chuck ) and filling them a bit bigger.

    For the case I intend to get the metal sheets cut to size so I wont really have to do any hacksawing The only parts Id have to do is the front for my dvd drive, vga cable for gfx card. Im going to re-use the ATX IO plate that came with my nf7-s which amkes it a lot easyer. The motherboard will mount directly onto the right pannel. I will use solder/glue to put nuts on the back then I just screw into them and it wont show from the outside. This also would act as a removeable mobo tray
    I will use aluminum or brass angle to hold all of the panels together.
    I only need 3 dvd drive sized bays (dvd-rw, hdd watercooler).
    The 1/4" BSPT tap (I meant 1/4" in my last post) is £17 + vat + delivery = about £30, already got various tap wrenches and plenty of other taps from where my dad works, just not the one I need

  5. #21
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    Fixed the Links (I need to practice my command line FTP , forgot to change to binary )

    Quote Originally Posted by Capt Doufos
    Nothing that fancy I'm affraid. Just a flat fairly thin piece with the drive bays / Vents machined out.

    I will get some pics at a later date.

    Excellent ideas though... Might be a bit pricey.
    Should look pretty cool anyway. Look forward to pics when you finish it


    Silent Death
    Did you say you used silver as the base for your block? Was that solid silver must have been expensive!!
    YEah i was a bit worried about strain the piping would put on my block. Especcially so considering the size and thickness of the scrounged power washer hose i used for part of it.
    The top to my block is made of relativly thin 1.5mm copper with the holes cut out with a piercing saw as we dont have a 1/2inch drill.

    You seem to have your case fairly well worked out. Are you going to make the drive/HDD cages as well? I would have thought they may be a balls even if only for 3 spaces.
    Have you thought about the front. There is potential for a lot of cool stuff using brass on the front especcially if you get the piercing saw out . Hard work though but you could do some cool fretwork and backlight the front so light etc shone through .

  6. #22
    Senior Member SilentDeath's Avatar
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    Silvers not that expensive (well compared t copper it is very, but you could DIY make a block from silver for cheaper than a commercail block costs), got quite a bit - which was free from where my dad used to work, the gpu block is made from silver, heres some pics (not in any order):
    http://server6.uploadit.org/files/kb...echannels2.jpg
    http://server6.uploadit.org/files/kbn2k3-somesilver.JPG
    http://server6.uploadit.org/files/kb...shedgpuTop.JPG
    http://server6.uploadit.org/files/kb...dgpuBottom.JPG
    http://server6.uploadit.org/files/kb...kalmostfin.JPG
    http://server6.uploadit.org/files/kb...ilverbase2.JPG
    http://server6.uploadit.org/files/kb...ilverbase1.JPG

    In the first pic you can see the lid I was going to use (pic was after it was silver soldered = why its so oxidised, hadnt drilled the holes then).
    The top was done very quickly, I messued up the first one on the barbs. This one I sanded both sides first (the were textured - plastic from cutting board) drilled the holes and put the barbs in. Thats why it looks so crap. I will be remaking it with the outlets joined in the top instead of 3 barbs. At the time I made it I only had a tiny peice of silver (and I saved some for a cpu block yet to make) which is the reson I made it from such a small peice. Since then I have about 2x more than in the pic, + lots of 20mm cube peices which my dad found in the garage.
    This pic is of the original gpu block I made, hte base was flat on inide with no channels on that one so it was very easy to make, http://server6.uploadit.org/files/kbn2k3-wbfin1.JPG

    My hdd block (pic before it was finnished) -> http://server6.uploadit.org/files/kbn2k3-hddblock3.JPG
    Easyish to solder but bending the copper right was hard, there are better ways to do it... but it works fine.

  7. #23
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    Nice. I like the silver . Are you going to make your CPU block out of the 20x20mm pieces? That would really only work for athlon XPs wouldnt it? Ones that dont have an integral heat spreader.

    My CPU block is made of 13mm aluminiun 50mm flat stock drilled very roughly out and fitted with a copper top which was screwed and sealed with tough sealant. The combnation of alu and cu in the system is probably not good . Will have to take it apart some time and see what is happening.

    How well does your hardrive cooler work? Ive been thinking of making one of these but couldnt be bothered at the mo.

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