no power to motherboard??

[AthruZ]

Hi everyone,
Putting a new build together..I'm basically taking out the guts of my old P4 system and putting in an i7 system.
I have a Thermaltake armor case and I'm putting in a 920, Gigabyte EX58-UD3R, 6gb corsair XMS3, megahalems super6, 2 samsung F3 1TB drives, optical DVD burner (ide), no floppy, akasa fans etc.
Now, I have gutted my case today..carefully installed everything and hey presto!!!....nothing, not a flicker.
Checked every possible thing I can think of..power socket in wall, power switch on PSU, all cables connected solidly to MB, front panel power supply button is in MB (tried both ways incase + and - were mixed up). The only 2 things I can think it would be is my MB or my PSU?
I have a zippy emacs 6600 600w PSU...I thought this would be enough to run my new build but maybe it isnt? Plugged it back into a makeshift cardboard box build of my old components and it powers the old P4 motherboard as it did before? Its either this PSU doesn't have enough juice or the new UD3R is faulty?
Any ideas would be very much appreciated as my brain hurts

[woody_294]

Nothing at all? I'll go for basics first.

Has the Mobo got an 8pin power connector? Has your PSU got one?

[AthruZ]

yep and yep...connected everything as it should be. My old motherboard had a 4 pin (asus P5P800). The PSU has multiple connectors, fits fine into the 8 pin on the UD3.
Also ram in right slots for 3 2GB strips, HDs in right sata slots, Graphics card seated right...it all should work, very confoooosed.

Oh, also tried 'jumping' the MB with a screwdriver...didn't work.

[spac3d]

Yeah there's the main large pin connector to the motherboard, and the smaller 4/8 pin uusally top left near the CPU.. A common mistake

[spac3d]

edit: Poster answered as I was posting..

[woody_294]

Hmmz, I'd recommend taking all the stuff off the board, GPU and any other expansion cards, disconnect the drives, just 1 stick of RAM, see if it will power up.

If it does power up add stuff one at a time and see if it still powers up.

[AthruZ]

everything disconnected, 1 strip of ram in the ddr3-1 slot, 24 pin plugged in and clicked, 8 pin plugged in and clicked, 2 pin power supply button switch connected to motherboard, internal 4 pin speaker connected, wall socket on, PSU switch on...nothing. 2 pin and 4 pin (power supply and speaker) connectors + and - swopped incase they were the wrong way around...nothing. Tried to jumpstart MB again by putting screwdriver on 2 pin power switch connector...nothing. Tried plugging PSU into different wall socket and repeating process...nothing. Tried different strip of ram in ddr3-1 and ddr3-4..I'm stumped.

[kmac]

Is your memory in this list
http://www.giga-byte.com/FileList/Me...-x58a-ud3r.pdf

Is your CPU in the CPU support list for that mobo?
The mobo will have a bios version on it - the CPU has to be compatible with the biso version

[Ulti]

Seems like the motherboard isn't even turning on. This either means a dead motherboard or a dead PSU. Not sure how good the PSU is as it's quite an old one so it's quite likely it could be a dead PSU tbh.

From a bit of research the PSU was a good one for its time though but that was around 4 years ago.

[AthruZ]

Yep,
The motherboard is indeed not turning on whatsoever.
The ram and cpu are on the list and I bought the UD3R as a bundle with the corsair ram and the i7 920 from scan (which I doubt would sell incompatible bundles)
As you said Ulti the PSU is a bit of an old banger but was very good in its day..its not dead as I was actually using it in my old system this morning before I took it apart and have since seen it working in a makeshift re-asembly of my old stuff to see if it still powered up (which it did).
Like I said, the only 2 things I can think of is that the PSU just doesn't have the nads to run it all or the UD3R is a rare dud?
I thought 600w would be ok? I've ordered a coolmaster 850w silentpro and I'm praying that that solves it..if there is no power still then I'll have to return the motherboard I guess

[Ulti]

Well guess you can't do anything apart from wait for the new PSU. Even 100W would be enough to at least turn the motherboard on tbh so I doubt it's the wattage not being enough... 850W is way overkill but seeing as you've already ordered it then yeah haha.

Seems you do have a broken board then unfortunately.

[scaryjim]

I'm only suggesting this because it's the kind of mistake I make myself, but you have made sure the power's switched on at the wall, and that the PSU is turned on (if it has its own power switch)?

The other thing would be to check that the "Clear CMOS" jumper isn't set to "Clear" - I think some companies ship their mobos with them set to "clear" as standard...

[Pob255]

PSU can be tested by jump starting it with a paperclip
http://www.overclock.net/faqs/96712-...upply-psu.html

[AthruZ]

Thanks for the replies,
Spent the whole day checking every possible scenario. The PSU is working as I have fired up my old components with it to check so no need to jumpstart it. Yeah 850w is a bit OTT but it was on special at scan and I just thought I'd be safe with that amount.
The 'clr cmos' has no jumper on it, just 2 exposed pins so that is 'open' is it not? I will try and clear it when I get back from work and see if that helps?
I have read that the EX58-UD3R is very picky about which PSU it runs on too...considering mine, though good at the time is about 4 years old that might be the problem, or of course the MB is just a dud.
The only reason I'm building the damn computer is because I bought a HD camcorder as a treat for giving up smoking and realised I couldn't edit HD on my old PC.
So giving up smoking has cost me nearly £2000 so far!!
Well, at least I still have my health eh?

[scaryjim]

The 'clr cmos' has no jumper on it, just 2 exposed pins so that is 'open' is it not?

That must be a new design - I'm used to CMOS jumpers being 3 pins and you needing to short either 1 - 2 or 2 - 3 depending on whether you need clear or normal. But if it's just 2 pins and the manual says you need to short them to clear the CMOS, then leaving them open should be correct (I think)...

I have read that the EX58-UD3R is very picky about which PSU it runs on too...considering mine, though good at the time is about 4 years old that might be the problem

That sounds like a possibility - I've heard similar things about a mobo I own that I couldn't get to post (so I've not binned it yet - waiting 'til I can get my hands on a different PSU to try it with ). I'll be interested to hear if you have any success with that...

[AthruZ]

That must be a new design

Guessing it is? The manual specifically states that to clear the cmos you need to put a jumper cap on the 2 pins to short them (clear them). I am assuming the head of a screwdriver will do the same as I've never had to clear a cmos before?
Yes it seems some MBs are choosy as to which PSU it is compatible with...something the manufacturers fail to tell people.
Well, I'll wait until my new PSU turns up monday, if it's still a no go I'll send the whole bundle back to scan to be tested (MB, RAM & CPU).