New build wont boot!!!

Hi guys, I’ve just built a brand new system for work and gaming, and this is it:

- Coolermaster ATCS 840 Full Tower Chassis
- Intel Core i7-3930K 6-Core Processor 3.2GHz
- Asus Rampage IV Extreme/BF3 X79 S2011 Intel X79 DDR3 ATX
- Corsair X79 Memory Dominator GT 16GB DDR3 2133 MHz CAS 9 XMP DHX Quad Channel
- Asus Radeon HD 7970 AMD/ATI Graphics Card - 3GB
- Corsair CMPSU-1200AXUK Professional Series Gold 1200W Power Supply
- OCZ VTX3-25SAT3-120G Vertex 120GB SATA 2.5 inch SSD
- WD 750GB 3.5" SATA-III 6Gb/s Caviar Black Hard Drive - 7200RPM 64MB Cache
- Samsung 12x BD-ROM/DVDRW Lightscribe SATA
- Corsair Memory Cooling Hydro Series H80 High-Performance CPU Cooler

I got everything together and powered up but nothing appears on my monitor (doesn’t even POST). Some of the motherboards debug LED’s appear (I think the “CPU” and “IOH_PCIE” LED’s) but I don’t know what to do from here. I’m also getting no beeps from the motherboard speaker.

I have tested the GPU and RAM on another system and they’re both working.

Any help is much appreciated…

I have to ask ... Did you plug in both the 24 pin and the 12 V power on the mobo ? I saw these mobos have two 12 v plugs, from the looks of it you should only use one(I just skimmed th emanual though).

Ive plugged in power to the EATXPWR (24-pin), EATX12V_1 (4-pin) and EATX12V_2 (8-pin), is this overkill then? If so, do you think I should use the EATX12V_1 (4-pin) or the EATX12V_2 (8-pin)? Its not too clear in the manual.

Thanks for the reply Chluz

mine had the option of 4 pin or 2x4pin - it said it was optional whether to do the second, but some configurations may require it. I connected both anyway and it worked fine.

PCIe might mean the PCIe cards aren't properly in and/or they aren't getting enough power. In addition to connecting both 4pin to the motherboard make sure all graphics cards are properly seated and powered properly from the PSU. Check all the cables from the psu are seated in the recommended ports (if modular) and that if it is a multi-rail design, you aren't trying to power too many cards off a single rail.

After that, read the manual - there's usually a troubleshoot table that interprets the LEDs for you.

Sorry to be referencing another forum mods (I hope this is not against the rules)

This forum talks about the extra 12 V plugs you get on the rampage IV.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1204133/r...tions-question

After more searching, it seems you can connect both 12V connectors if you want to (shouldn't hurt anyways, as ik9000 said). Although this man said he had prolems :

"I just have a single 4 pin connected for the cpu and thats it. I have no problem with 32 gigs of ram, a single 580 and 5.0ghz cpu... When I additionally connect the 6 pin by the PCI-e slots my board won't even boot..."

When you said the led flashed, are thoses the leds next to the 24 pin powerplug on the motherboard, or rather the number leds ? Be warry that leds do not always indicate the correct cause of your problems, and can often only indicate a consequence

Hey guys,

I have tried different variations of power to the CPU and have settled on attaching both 4pin and 8pin to the PSU. I haven't attached power to either of the EZ_PLUG pins (the extra pins by the PCI-e slots for multiple GPU's and general OCing). Ive also made sure the GPU is seated properly and is getting 14pins of power from the PCI-e section of the PSU.

Its the Voltiminder “CPU” and “IOH_PCIE” LED’s (in the top right, next to the START and RESET buttons) that light a solid (not flashing) green and stay on. Apparently the voltage on the selected components is being polled, what does this mean??

The number LED's light up showing "00" and don't change. Also the LED's directly to the left of the PCI-e lane switches don't light up even though they are switched on.

Have I got a faulty motherboard?

Thanks for the reply's guys, I appreciate it.

and the manual says?

According to this thread @ Tom's Hardware Post code 00 is interrupt to boot-loader: i.e. the board's posted fine and is waiting for the OS to load. The OP in that thread fixed the problem by setting the LN2 switch to disabled. Try that?

Hey guys,

After trying out every bit of advice I had been given, i decided to take the system apart completely and build it outside of the case (not really thinking it would work) and to my amazement it booted perfectly. I then put everything back into the case (the only difference being new screws on the motherboard) and its working just fine now.

A friend told me the case must have been causing a short on the motherboard, but I still don't understand where or how???

Thanks to everyone who helped, you all kept my head up when I was getting pretty frustrated.

glad you got it working. Enjoy :)

Glad you got it working.

Had the same problem 2 times in last 12 years.... won't work no matter what I tried, remove from case and all works fine... put back into case and all works fine. Decided it was Gremlins. ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by OSI

A friend told me the case must have been causing a short on the motherboard, but I still don't understand where or how???

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This is relatively common actually - usually it's caused by either the EMI shield not being fitted correctly or not getting the motherboard standoffs right.

yep, happened to me once as well. In fact I would say that fitting the motherboard inside the case is probably the most error prone part of a build

I recently had a build that would sometimes boot and sometimes not, apparently at random. I then discovered that turning the case on its side would usually allow it to boot,and this improved things for a while but it slowly become more and more erratic. I then rebuilt it into a spare beige box I had lying around and it's been rock solid ever since.

Whilst there's no *good* reason for a case to stop a computer working, sometimes it just does! Glad you got it fixed :)