Just wanted to know, Can i use a USB Hub as a KM switch as my monitor already has 2 inputs.
Also how much do USB KMV switches cost anyway?
Thanks,
Nem.
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Just wanted to know, Can i use a USB Hub as a KM switch as my monitor already has 2 inputs.
Also how much do USB KMV switches cost anyway?
Thanks,
Nem.
Simply stock a two-port Belkin USB KVM w/Audio switching at £38.76 (Simply code 47089). That any use to you? And "not as far as I'm aware" on the hub thing.
Never heard of being able to do that - they are two completely seperate things.
Are both machines on the same network?
Are EvilMunky thinking "VNC"? Cause I would be...
If the machines are already networked, depending on what you want to do with them, you might be able to do it via VNC and save the money.
remote desktop is better for Windows XP machines... but if you don't need any fast update rates, and got network, RDC or VNC would be the cheap and easy solutions.
i remember berklin doing a usb switch (so you can swap one portA to either of the two portB's on the unit. i think it was meant for printers.) so connect that up with a hub and you should be fine.
I don't think so.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemeliza
2-port KVM switches including cables from arround 25 PS onward. I often use Kelkoo as a reference site for "decent" prices. (Indexed by Google, and they have everything I've ever tried to find a price on).Quote:
Originally Posted by Nemeliza
http://shopping.kelkoo.co.uk/b/a/ss_Kvm_switches.html
Watch out for switches without cables. For home use, Onscreen display (OSD) and keyboard based switching (Usually via double-tapping Ctrl key) is realy overkill. In server racks however it is a different ball-game as the switch-box is often not within arm's length from the work desk.
I've never tried a KVM switch with audio switching capability, but I suspect this ain't not worth the extra money either. :cool:
Hope this helps!
_Hartz
I'd advise against a keyboard style "switching method" and get the SWITCH BOX version.....
cos lots of KVM boxes use a keystroke related to "control" plus another key
and so does Windows......
KVM switches are, of either sort, a great great idea :)
i'm using a usb switcher (printers, etc, lets you connect 4 pcs up to one device) right now. works perfectly with a logitech desktop.
Lots of response. Thanks for that people.
The comps are networked but i need this to work at all times, ie even at boot time and during windooze installation. I will take a look at the usb KVMs
I already have a PS2 KVM that was baught for me but its not use to me as i use a USB keyboard and mouse.
Next week I will probably be making a KB/M switch. A simple mechanical switch would do. You have 5 wires to switch per USB device, between two positions. I would prefer a single switch - 10PDT but these probably dont exist so Ill be finding an easyer version.
total parts cost will be:
2x USB socket (PCB mounting)
1x USB plug (normal type)
several meters of 5 or 10 way cable
Box
And the switch itself.
So probably under £10+ postage if anyones interested.
Each time its switched this way, it would apear to the pc as if the mouse or keyboard are unplugged, this wouldnt have any downside. PS2 based switchers had to have the mouse and kb always connected or it would potentially crash the pc which is why they cost so much more - for some reson usb based ones have kept the same price tags, but they seem to be more complex (OSD and remote switching, for example).
Quote:
Originally Posted by nichomach
I would only use vnc across internet etc - within a ecure lan i would just use window remote desktop for the speeeeeeeed
True enough as long as you're using XP/Windows 2000 Server or greater. TS in Admin mode...love it.
damn right :D
Done.
http://server6.uploadit.org/files/kb...0USBSwitch.jpg
Contains one switch just for keyboard (cant use keyboard in bios if it goes through a hub), and another switch which has a cheap ebuyer 4 port usb1.1 hub. This is for mouse, joystick and any other devices I find on my floor (mess)...
You need one switch per device and each switch can go between upto 3 pc's.. though Im lazy so only bothered with two...
It works well, though Ive only tested it with one pc so far (the other is still in peices), but theres no reson why it wouldnt work with both.
how much that cost silentdeath? looks good.
offtopic why dont you ever show on IRC anymore :)
on quakenet? I had a name change to |kbn| .. [edit: because I got banned on a few channels :P] (stands for knifed by n00bs - from when I played scoutzknifes on cs.. a long time ago.. cba to type out the full nick :P) couldnt think of a better name... but I know i do need better :) im still on the same channels.. but as ive given up with cs and also trying to get banned constantly I dont read mirc much.. mostly idle while doing other stuff ..
cost for the hub:
Maplin code
FF76 rotary 4PST switch £1 each x2
PN86 USB A Plug 75p each x 5 (made my own cables....)
XR28 15way cable (for usb, they ran out of 9way... have kb and mouse wires insdie the same sheeth for neatness but split it at the end :)
RN34 Bl00 box £2.97 (looks good but bloody hard to cut the slots in!!!)
JZ47 12mm collet 1/4" knob x2 - for the switches
JZ76 15mm cap black x2 16p - to go on above ^
FW38 rubber feet things... 41p
And also a hub, if you want to use one... you dont have to buy it gives you 3 more sockets than if you just used 2 switches... Mine was a cheap ebuyer £5 usb1.1 version, which was also bl00 :P
Annoyingly maplin doesnt sell USB sockets, only plugs. I decided to use them from USB backplates. In total I used 5. 2 for each pc (= 4) and one for keyboard. The hub, as you can guess, had its own :)
Instead of spending loads on backplates - if you dont already have loads, I know www.rapidelectronics.co.uk sell them.
The knobs need a 9mm hole for the thread to go through (I forgot originally and done 1/4" as thats the shaft dia.)
I used hot glue to hold all the USB sockets on from backplates.
Hot glue didnt work very well for holding the hubs pcb in as it would move around when inserting devices... [doesnt happen with the seperate sockets that goto pc's] (I threw away the bloo casing... it fitted inside but looks better without it...) so I used the screws + nuts from the usb backplates. The original screws were tooo short for doing this.
This was very easy to do mostly, but cutting out the bl00 box definatly took the longest/most effort. If the walls were not bumped (you can see in the pic) and or kept a thickness below 2mm I could have used my nibber tool (search on rapidelectronics) which would be easy. Instead I had to use a drill to start it. Then I used a 6mm endmill in a cordless drill becuase I was bored[Note this is VERY bad for the safety of your fingers :P]. then I gave up and used a hacksaw blade and a file to finnish it off and make it not look so crap.
If you cut it badly (so it looks crap) you can full the gaps with hotglue :)
IRL it looks a lot worse becuase the bottom and sides are now very scratched from the cutting. I recommend a different box becuase of the extra effort needed for this :(