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Free heater core, nice one
Mine are both harrison models, different years though (printed on the bottom of the core), what does yours say? (not that it makes any difference)
I doubt its aluminuim, the construction, if it is the same as mine, makes little sence for an aluminuim core. Alunuim is a very reactive metal, and so it binds with oxygen and nitrogen in the air when heated (which is not a good thing..). With copper, flux prevents this, and new fluxes work with aluminuim but with a very weak joint in comparason. As my heatercores are both based heavly on soldering techiniques for manufacture, I dont see how an alu one would look the same or even close
Alumuinuim is a silvery coloured metal, but much duller (becuase of quick oxidisation) where as copper is orangy, brass is a mix between zink and copper, and so is gold like in colour.
One way to test is to fill with water, and touch some copper against the aluminuim, both touching the water and each other. There should be a measureable voltage between them (the basis for galvanic corrosion). Theres probably a better way to test, but I cant remember.
I dont know exactly how much brass weighs, but as you dont know how much brass is there - its not a solid cubic shape so that wouldnt help...
I would recommend on the bottom front of the case. Cutting into the mobo tray is the best way, becuase it gives more space in the rest of the case and hides the ugly heatercores. Its fairly easy to do, but you might want a nibbler tool for it, rapidelectronics.co.uk sell them. After modding your case a tiny bit, if you can be arsed, its definatly the best place imo, but takes some effort..
The pipes are brass, non standard size(in terms of copper mains/central heating piping) so soldering is not the best idea if you want an exact fit.
You can probably put a normal 1/4"BSPT->1/2" barb in and solder it to a good fit, wrap some copper braid/wire around the joint if its atall loose, and use plenty of flux and you wil get a good joint. 1/4" bspt will restrict it quite a bit (16mm->9mm..)
Soldering is only really a great idea when you want to extend the pipe, or like me, to add a drain tap to it.
Soldering might damage the paint...
What tubing are you using? tygon and clearflex 1/2" both stretch over quite easly although you might wnato heat them up a bit by immersing in hot water, as this allows it to stretch much easyer...
extra question: No, its quite random, really. Usually they say ID or OD.. but always ask. By my vernier (and bad eyesight) 3/8" is equal to 9.52mm, so no... BUT you shouldnt be using such low IDs anyway .. too low for me (mines all 12mm+)
Btw, the ID of 1/2" barbs is usually between 8 and 9.5mm, although brass is easly strong enough to allow 10-10.5mm.. nowhere seems to make them
Look up BSPT to barb sizes, they are not the same...
Leave the rad painted, if it looks good. I would. I doubt you would notice the differnce. The dT between water and air is only a small temp anyway in most systems, the highest dT is between chip core and heatsink...
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