Watercooling

[Knoxville]

thinking of watercooling my next rig and i've got about £150-£200 to spend

i've heard good things about the kits here - http://store.over-clock.com/Full_Kits.html

opinions anyone?

[s4ch117]

they got good kits for sale but makin you own one would be better

buy a D-tek LRWW cpu block £35 ish, a hydor l30 £25 ish, a dangerden clear res for £20 ish and then with the radiaotr you could use a heatercore from a nova which will be better then commerical rads. you can get this for around £10 of ebay. and for tubing go gor dangerden clearflex

[Bindibadgi]

www.coolercases.co.uk have DD kits
www.wizarddesigns.co.uk do aqua computer kits

Up to you what you like, but shop around

Keep to 1 size barb too.

[SilentDeath]

im getting watercooling aswell, this is my plan:

ehiem 1250 - £30 seond hand (arrives tuesday )
ocpc atlantis nb waterblock - £25, also tuesday
tubing £5
ive got copper pipe, which will go round my hdd's with a plate to screw to hdd and conduct heat better, hdds wont get hot and i can wrap them in lots of noise reduction foam (they r ludest thing in my casE)
silver base + copper pipe = my w/b's for cpu and 9700p (not going to be very efficent due to no turbulance, so ill have as much water goig thru as possible - upto about 12l/m i think could be possible.
going to make a relay thing to start pump/shut down comp when it overheats.

u shoud defainlty look at 2nd hand stuff, my pump is almost half what it is new. one thing that ennoys me is that rads (for a semi decent one) cost ~£70 for a commercal one, or £20 for heatercore, THEN u have to pay about £15 for a 120mm fan ( i managed to find some for £5, theres thread in FMAB), the rad i wanted needed 6, which is why ive decided the freezer idea is best (subzero temps by chilling the coolant (water + antifreze) + no noise from fans) +its cheapest

shops to look at:

www.pclincs.co.uk
www.over-clock.co.uk (bit expensive but have about everything)

try to keep ur w/c kit all the same metal - copper if u can (best heat transfer) any aluminuim make sure its annodised or ull get lots of gavanic corrosion.

dont get dangerden stuff either for these resons:
its american, so itll cost more.
poly tops look good, but can crack
they STOLE the maze4 design from some 1 designing a waterblock on a forum (and tehres performs worse anyway)

u should read this, explains about everything.
http://discuss.futuremark.com/forum/...=&fpart=1&vc=1

[drunkenmaster]

its american so costs more? only ocpc(who are now gone) produce blocks not in the states right? LRWW or wahtever now made in states, as is swiffy, dangerden, and, they all cost almost the same?

Poly tops look good, and don't crack if designed and used right, a small number of DD3's cracked at first (MANY MANY didn't and haven't) and the 2nd version out very shortly after first fixed it, never heard of any more problems myself. they stole the maze 4 design of a forum guy, HIGHLY doubtful as there are a couple cyclone blocks, and several otehr blocks that follow that kinda design.

just cos some forum guy comes up with design, doesn't mean he is the only one allowed to make it, LRWW was original, with new concepts in it, maze's, central intake and so on are jsut common, logical solutions. ANyone accuse LRWW of nicking the central intake idea? nope.


lower flow is better without any turbulance present, fast water skims off surface , slower water has much higher drag , and will make more contact, but thats just physics for ya.