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About LinkBacksDeluxe model, you can pick it up from Xcase.co.uk for less than 70 quid.
Deluxe model, you can pick it up from Xcase.co.uk for less than 70 quid.
Cool - I've already had one of them for a couple of weeks testing and thought it was great as well. Thats before work wanted it back so they could send it out for testingOriginally Posted by skb3
So.. direct does not mean close in the dictionary, but that is what I meant and I think thats obvious.Better to learn right from the start, than be fooled by wishy-washy comments that mislead.
You can get a 12mm bit with a reduced chuck. And 12mm chucked drills are not that uncommon, it's the sort of thing you might have knocking about from some DIY.
Tapping - you can tap a res with a hose barb if you're a bit careful (I have done it).
Obviously if you don't have tools already it's cheaper to just buy a premade thing.
Direct means without going through anything else. A 5 foot tube is direct, but not close. Close means physically near (preferrably under 6 inches). If you want it in simple terms - centrifugal pumps (as we use) are really bad at sucking in water through restriction. You want the widest, most open connection you can get. A long tube is not, a short tube or direct res mounting is.
Up, down, left, right makes NO difference in a closed system. And you will be running a closed system, or the water will be pooling in the bottom of your case. Think about it, the system is basically a loop, as you push water up one side of the loop gravity is pushing it down the other. That's why height differences make no difference - they all balance out.
You open the res at the bottom same as you would at the top. The water won't escape, there's only one opening (unless you have a leak), the res. To get air in and water out the water would have to flow up out of the res while the air flowed down in, that's not going to happen. Unless you do something silly like turn it over it won't leak.
12mm chucks are not as common. Most people will probably have a smaller size chuck, ofcourse depending on what the drill was purchased for doing.
If the res is at the bottom, filling is a pita because you need to use the pump while filling.
If the res is at the top, it can be done in a few seconds without the pump. it depends how long you want to spend filling your system every few months when the water needs changing.
As you said, no difference once the loop is running, but it makes maintaining it easyer.
Get a winemaking demijohn from the local carboot, and connect it up using a cheapo pump like a hydor l20 and the cheapest block you can find on ebay. Wioth a big water reservoir like the demijohn you don't really need radiators.
This might sound a bit rude; but that's an amazingly good idea. Does it work though??
It can work quite well, depending on your cpu and whether you have to comp on 24/7 or not.
I have it on about 15 hours a day. And it's a (don't laugh) 1GHz Athlon CPU!
What about sticking a few bits of copper,or even a normal rad/heatercore, inside the cold water tank (which then feeds the hot water tank/heater). It holds a lot of water, and most of it being cold (10-30c) depending on how long since the hot tap was run..
IIRC 1w will heat 1cc of water by 1°c/second.
With that you can work out how often you need to run the tap etc.. to keep temps down. No idea how much water is in one of these tanks.
Should work fine, and have the added benefit of complete silence. Basically it's the same idea as using a wet and chilly p/a reservoir (like what I have here), except it relies more on sheer volume of water to dissipate heat than any flashy construction.
Not quite. Water's specific heat capacity is 4186 J/Kg°C so 4186W will heat 1Kg of water by 1°C per second. That's 4.186W for 1cc heated 1°C per second.
If your tank is say, 1m cube it'll hold 1000 litres of water, so a cpu putting out say 70W will heat the water by 0.06°C per hour.
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