Please don't reply with posts saying I won't get a good system for the following prize and that I must be crazy; cause I am crazy. Where can I get a new water cooling system with GPU waterblock, + hosing, + TIM for under £40. Someone did do this using maplin electronics's radiator (£20), but hoses, TIM, waterblock + attachments e.t.c. weren't included.
Thanks
There's usually some bits going in the HEXUS.Classifieds if there's anything that suits your needs.
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Only way to do it that cheap is to DIY and use second hand components.
It all depends what you want really.. but most people would not call something under 40 quid good... (atleast if its in the pre-built kit form).
My pump alone cost £50 (D4) but the next best I would get a hydor L20, which is between £10-20 new OR second hand, a very nice cheap pump.
Pump chioce should be based upon the P-Q graph of the pump and the pressure drop expected of the components you want at the flow you want.
Anyway, heres how you can get it all cheaper:
For rad, use a car heater matrix. Like car rads but much moresuitably sized for a pc. They can cost less than £10 and they do perform very well usually (as good if not better than the 120.3 thermochill). I use two 200mm ones, one on top of each other, with a 172mm fan.
Blocks - if youve got a dremmel, able to drill 12mm holes, solder and have the time, make your own blocks. Its not that hard but it takes time. The worst part is lapping it (which can take 10h+ by hand) - as stock copper can be very unflat depending on which type you get.Idealy it would be milled flat, which is better than lapping.
Second hand blocks are usually cheap, and a shop was doing DD m4 GPU for under £20 not long ago.
You *NEED* a res. Belive me, it will save you hours and stop you getting even 1/100000th of the frustration you would wirhout. These can be DIY'ed but I would just buy one. Accryilic aint cheap, so expect to pay £10-£30.
Idealy* there are these two things to consider:
1) The res outlet would feed downwards directly into the pump. This reduces the energy wasted sucking water in, and vaporising it when theres not enough to keep it pressurised. Also makes it quieter and pump will last longer.
2) The top of the res, will be the highest component in the loop and will be filled from above the waterlevel (IE fill hole is not below the waterlevel which it would normally run at)
*If you dont do this, it compleatly defeats the point in having a res
Hosing - this is a bit of a tough chioce. Id say get clearflex or tygon (try both, not sure which I prefer!). In a way id recommend the really cheap crap, as after a few months when the algy builds up, you can just throw it away... but with T or C you will want to clean it up.. which can take an hour or two..
Last edited by SilentDeath; 16-02-2005 at 10:33 PM.
Ah yesy will look.Originally Posted by Kez
Thanks, will investigate!
Really honestly save some more money and get a decent setup, save up to a £100 and you will get a great second hand setup for that. Cheap and watercooling don't go and just cause you a head ache if you use crap components.
.: Predator :.
- Shuttle SN25P - A64 3700+ San Diego @ 2.7GHz - 1GB PQI Ultra DDR - X850XT - Asus DVD-ROM - 200GB Maxtor + 2*80GB SATAII -
I couldn't recommend the Coolriver anymore, it is under 70 quid at www.xcase.co.uk
Its awesome, good cooling and very quiet, when I have finished fitting mine I will post some pictures. Also it will cool the CPU, GPU and northbridge chip.
I have higher priorities than water cooling, I just can't stand the sound my fans make, it sounds like a bloody server room. However there are components I wish to spend real money on (and yes I count £100 as real money).
For preference I would like to spend alot, but I don't have that sort of money. Therefore I am willing to take the risks.
Looks excellent. Might well go for it. Thanks.
I think it is being reviewed this month in Custom PC, just have to wait and see when the next issue is released, though I have it under good authority that it received a good review.
You can buy a cheap IP68 rated box for use as a res if money is tight, just drill holes and fit barbs.
Being close is more important than having a downslope - in a closed loop relative height of components is irrelevant.
It doesn't matter if it's at the top or not really, as long as you have reasonable flow any air will move to the res. and the main point of a res it to increase the net positive suction head of the system, a res will do that whether it's at the top or bottom of the loop.
Last edited by Butcher; 17-02-2005 at 03:25 PM.
Was only trying to give usefull advice and I wouldnt conisder my points to be wrong just worded badly if anything. I think your post goes a bit OT/OTT for a thread about beginner watercooling.
IP68 res:
Does everyone have a drill with 12mm chuck?
A 1/4" BSPT/BSPP tap OR know where to buy bulkhead fittings?
If I wanted to do this, It'd be a case of "borrowing" the mill at work, to make the holes. Taps cost about £7 for one of this size.
Res outlet:
Does direct not also mean close?
Downwards is better, not that theres anything wrong with sideways...
Res positioning:
And what about maintance. How would the res be opened for filling, if it is at the bottom. If it was opened, air would go in (if theres no other inlet for air) and water would go out.
Filling is one of the purposes of a res.
Top is better.. but again if you REALLY want.. theres nothing wrong with putting it at the bottom.
Last edited by SilentDeath; 18-02-2005 at 01:37 AM.
Better to learn right from the start, than be fooled by wishy-washy comments that mislead.
You can get a 12mm bit with a reduced chuck. And 12mm chucked drills are not that uncommon, it's the sort of thing you might have knocking about from some DIY.IP68 res:
Does everyone have a drill with 12mm chuck?
A 1/4" BSPT/BSPP tap OR know where to buy bulkhead fittings?
If I wanted to do this, It'd be a case of "borrowing" the mill at work, to make the holes
Tapping - you can tap a res with a hose barb if you're a bit careful (I have done it).
Obviously if you don't have tools already it's cheaper to just buy a premade thing.
Direct means without going through anything else. A 5 foot tube is direct, but not close. Close means physically near (preferrably under 6 inches). If you want it in simple terms - centrifugal pumps (as we use) are really bad at sucking in water through restriction. You want the widest, most open connection you can get. A long tube is not, a short tube or direct res mounting is.Res outlet:
Does direct not also mean close?
Up, down, left, right makes NO difference in a closed system. And you will be running a closed system, or the water will be pooling in the bottom of your case. Think about it, the system is basically a loop, as you push water up one side of the loop gravity is pushing it down the other. That's why height differences make no difference - they all balance out.Downwards is better, not that theres anything wrong with sideways...
You open the res at the bottom same as you would at the top. The water won't escape, there's only one opening (unless you have a leak), the res. To get air in and water out the water would have to flow up out of the res while the air flowed down in, that's not going to happen. Unless you do something silly like turn it over it won't leak.Res positioning:
And what about maintance. How would the res be opened for filling, if it is at the bottom. If it was opened, air would go in (if theres no other inlet for air) and water would go out.
Filling is one of the purposes of a res.
this is all getting a bit pedantic! I've got a bit lost!
Matt1ed, I have my Coolriver water cooler setup with everything mounted, I'll send the photos over later today or tomorrow.
Its awesome, my GPU at idel from 50 degrees with stock heat sink and fan is now watercooled to a superb 40 degrees, under load my 6600GT would go up to 75 degrees under load with the stock and now it barely sees above 45 degrees watercooled.
IS that the deluxe or normal kit ?
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