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Ok, i started building a wc kit from various different parts. Just got hold of a monster rad, looks like a car heater core but not sure, it's really thick
http://img206.exs.cx/img206/1426/res...02154cs.th.jpg
http://img227.exs.cx/img227/2598/res...02160tj.th.jpg
I think must be a really powerful pump to push water through this thing, any suggestion.
DIY means making, not assembling :P
That rad aint a heater core. Heater cores are made from corrigated copper sheet soldered together and ran in parelell.
That looks to me more like a condenser for a phase change system. Note the capilary sized tubing for the inlet/outlet.
Phase change systems use this style of rad becuase of the high pressures in them. A heatercore would be blown apart instantly where as these can take much higher pressures.
you can get rads in this style from cars I *think*, and I know dangerden definatly madeonecalled the cube, for watercooling.. but id say heatercores are cheaper and generally better.
If you really want to use this, then take off the capilary tube - you may need to solder/braize on some more piping to make it easyer to connect to - maybe even some barbed fittings or thread the existing ones (after removing the capilary) - but they do look too small ID for a proper w/c system.
Your right in that you will need a big pump. Id recommend a laing d4 (or TWO in series). An eheim/hydor wont do for this thing, you need the pump to give a lot of pressure and not so much worry about flow.
Ok, should be DYO instead of DIY then :P. I dig this thing up from my garage, no problem with taking off the tube, 5' with my dremel, the small tube must be remove for sure. If I could use this it would save me a nice sum to spend on other things :D, so what i need is a very high pressure pump, right ? And is the Laing D4 is the Dangerden D4 12v pump, they look damn silimar.
One more question, if I use this rad, then an Antartica or a TDX would be better ? TDX i think? to make use of the high pressure.
Hmmm strange rad.
I'm not so sure about needing a really powerful pump for it SilentDeath. The main flow tubing looks like 1/2 inch ID and the bends are all nicely curved so once the capillary/small tubes are removed it shouldnt cause too much pressure drop. I have a Hydor L20 running a system with a rad similar, if not bigger, than this and it runs fine :).
Anymore ideas people??
@Turkster: yep you're right, without the capillary it's 1/2'' fitting. What make me worry is not the size, but the length of the tube in the rad, 3 fold, so can a normal pump do it job ?
The d4 is a great pump though. Much morepower and 1/2 the size :)
To me the pipeing looks smaller, certinally not 15mm which is what ive used for my hdd block and rad (which is acctually non-standard 16mmOD brass which is a pita to connect to 15mm copper)
Just so you know, it can be a PITA using 1/2" clearflex/tygon with non-barbed 1/2" fittings/pipe. Its just too small and easly leaks without a bit of overtightning.
To me this rad looks like 8mm ID pipe and the capilary @ 4mmOD?
If thats the case, then yea. It wont be the best for flow rate, but if its 1/2"ID then its still good enough :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans Voralberg
With a laing D4 you should get quite decent flow rates.
My gpu block, I made myself. It was my first block and it was uber-cheap using some free silver. I didnt have enough so it was possibly the most restritive block possible, similar to the WW but with 7x1mm*1mm channels.
The difference maded by taking it out, my d4 can run at 1/4 the power and still give higher flow (not that I have any equipment for measureing by how much.. ).
Performance was resonably good with the gpu block in, and it was able to do 450mhz on ever r300 card I could find.. so I think if you chose a good block this rad wont give problems..but a heatercore would be better :)
I find it hard to justify the price tag of the Laing D4, don't have much right now.
Currently i had an Antartica block (15 quids from eBay) and planning to get a DYO Asetek VGA block. (And finding a heater core in Camb is like finding a needle in the ocean)
So any more candidate ??
Well I just looked at my rad: it has 14 passes of 1/2" ID copper pipe and 14 U shaped bends so it is actually a good bit bigger than this one. As I say it does a very good job on my system with a L20 pump keeping my XP2500@2.3Ghz at around 35 deg C load :) (although with no VGA or chipset blocks).
yea, sounds fine.
D4 is maybe a bit too powerfull for normal loops/perfect for higher restriction ones..
If I try to run it now at 12v, with just my cpu block - which is very un-restrictive!, 2 rads, hdd block and res - I get problems that it quickly starts sucking air into the loop, and a lot of it; Its not really useable above 6.5v becuase of this problem, so I need to add some kind of restriction to stop air getting in there.
OMG, that's huge. I am suprise that a L20 manage to go through 14 passes and still give a decent pressure.Quote:
Originally Posted by turkster
Sorry if this is a n00b question, but from where air get into the loop?? From the res, i guess??Quote:
Originally Posted by |SilentDeath|
That's a Senfu radiator, they haven't been made in a few years now. I guess most people are too new to watercooling to remember them. ;)
It's designed specifically for watercooling. In terms of pressure drop, it's a lot more restrictive than a heatercore. It also has significantly less heat dissipation ability. And it's a beast to try and force air through, the weak fans provided are not really adequate to the task.
Some comparisons of this rad to others can be found here: http://www.overclockers.com/articles481/
Incidentally, thinner is better in almost all cases for watercooling radiators.
The fans provided are not really weak :devilish: . Also by Senfu (now i notice the Snfu sticker on the fan). According to the comparison @OC.com this rad kinda in the middile in term of pressure drop and flow rate, so ya think a Hydor L30 would do ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Butcher
LOL believe it means do it yourself m8, could be wrong.Quote:
DIY means making, not assembling
Yeah they are - 80mm fans are all weak pretty much, and those are 80x25mm to boot. Check the graphs on OC.com - your fans are going to be, at best, on the yellow line and probably below.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans Voralberg
L30? Don't know, depends what your goals are. It'll work, but use of that rad will limit the system somewhat.