First Build/First Custom Loop

[Krupi]

Hi Chaps,

First post here, I am after some advice regarding watercooling.

This is for a future build with the following components:

CASE - Lian Li O11 Dynamic
CPU - R7 4XXX
MOBO - X570 MSI TOMAHAWK
RAM - 32GB 3200
GPU - EVGA 3080 Hydro Copper

I have already purchased the case a Lian Li O11 however I am now gathering information on the watercooling components.

I am currently thinking of going for a distro plate, however a few of the Distro Plates use a DDC pump and a lot of people recommend D5 over the DDC.

I am looking at the EK Range

EK Quantum Reflection D5

Or

EK FLT 360 D5

For the CPU Block I am looking at the EKWB Velocity Nickel.

For the build I am struggling to decide between Hardline and Softline, this might have an impact on if I use the distro plate or reservoir.

Regarding the radiators I am going to use two 360 in either top and bottom or top and tray (Tray will have to be a slim version.

Should I go Hardline for my first build?

Are D5 worth the extra price over the DDC?

[jimborae]

Long story short:

No.
Yes.



Long story Long:

If this is your first ever custom loop self build watercooled effort, a hard line build is way to complicated and difficult, learn the ropes first with a soft line build. The ability cover up mistakes is a lot greater with soft line tubing, converslely there is no margin for error with hard line.

Secondly with that build I'd question the need for a distro plate and twin 360 rads, but that's your choice. If you are going with that setup then you'll definitely need a DC5 as you'll need to overcome the increased flow restriction that you are introducing.

[Ttaskmaster]

Should I go Hardline for my first build?

I know people who've done it.
So not to say you can't or shouldn't, but do spend a lot of time researching and learning, making sure your exact tubing fits exactly with your exact choice of fittings, and so on.
I still use soft tubing because I like to tinker and fiddle and chop & change and upgrade and test-fit, and the ability to just move the tube aside is worth it.

Are D5 worth the extra price over the DDC?

Depends what you want.
D5 has a high flow volume and runs wonderfully quiet. There are more accessories built for D5s as well.
DDC has lower flow but higher pressure to overcome heavy restrictions, as mentioned above. It also runs louder and warmer than a D5 so will need a good supply of cool air.

I run a D5 NEXT, which pumps through a 240 and a 360 rad, plus an EK 980Ti GPU block and a very restrictive Cuplex Kryos CPU block, with five angled fittings... and it has no problem keeping that lot cool. My biggest issue is the ambient air temperature, really.
However, my D5 kit is fairly high end with a shedload of extra features, and the whole thing is SO worth the cost!!

[Krupi]

Thanks for the input chaps, I am leaning towards the EK FLT360 with soft tubing.

I have a sketch however I can't post it yet, need a minimum of five.

Regarding the radiators how many do you think I need?

[Ttaskmaster]

The rule used to be that for every component you're cooling, you want at least 120mm worth of rad space, with one more 120 on top of the total.
So if you were cooling a CPU and GPU, you'd want 120 + 120, plus an additional 120, meaning a single 360 rad should be the minimum.
Obviously more is better (up to a point) and a single large radiator gives more cooling area than several smaller ones, as well as less flow restriction.

If you want twin 360 rads, I see no particular problem. I have one 240 and one 360 myself. It all depends on the route your tubing will take, how it looks, how it works and how well it can be implemented into your particular build.
I favour crossflow rads for this reason.
Just remember, with that much rad space you'll probably want more than one litre of coolant.

[Krupi]

Thanks Ttaskmaster,

I am leaning towards two 360, one on top one on bottom.

A thick or medium on top, EK PE 360.

Lower Rad XSPC TX360 Ultra Slim.

Both hooked up to a EK FLT360 in the tray.

[Krupi]

I am going with the EK ZMT tubing with the EK Quantum fittings seems perfect for my needs.

Regarding fans I am looking at six Lian Li Uni 120mm fans, however I don't really know much other than requiring high static versions.

Feel like I have a whole lot to learn,it is fun.

Thanks for your help chaps.

[Krupi]

I am currently looking at a EK PE360 at the top and a XSPC TE360 Ultra Slim along the bottom.

That will be three fans on each, bottom pull, top exhaust.. will that be sufficient?

[jimborae]

Should be sufficient, I'm basically cooling a 9700K & GTX1070 and have capacity to cool the chipset as well if I need to. This is using DC5, a tube resevoir, two 240 rads, one is push/pull, the other is push only, so 6 fans in total on the rads. Intake rad is in the front, exhaust rad is up top. I also have a 120mm exaust fan on the back of the case. Temps never exceed 70c on full load.

[Ttaskmaster]

A thick or medium on top, EK PE 360.
Lower Rad XSPC TX360 Ultra Slim.

Don't go thicker than 45mm - Thick rads really require Push-Pull to get much benefit from them, which means double the number of fans. Without that you'll generally see performance lower than thinner rads.
45 is a reasonable middleground, but even there you'll see higher gains from Push-Pull.

The UNI fans aren't bad. Lots of very cool features, but somewhat average performance.

That will be three fans on each, bottom pull, top exhaust.. will that be sufficient?

I would put the lower rad as an exhaust. Having it as an intake will suck more dust up from the carpet/desktop/whatever that your PC is sat on.

[Krupi]

Thanks Ttaskmaster, good point about the issues having them as intake.

Regarding fans, I really need to do more research on them. What would you recommend?

I would rather drop any RGB features over performance.

[Ttaskmaster]

Regarding fans, I really need to do more research on them. What would you recommend?
I would rather drop any RGB features over performance.

The good news is that RGB only affects price and cable management!

Firstly, it depends more on whether you want performance or silence.
You can get some awesomely high performing fans... but they're not the quietest things around, and high FPI rads (see below) means even more noise.
The ideal is typically a balance, which in most cases means Noctua fans. Arctic fans are cheaper and 'almost as good', but with some niggles and build quality issues.

The standard choice is the NF-F12 range of fans, but if you want top performance then their NF-F12 IndustrialPPC range is stunningly powerful!!
However, I'd personally suggest the NF-A12, as it can often outperform the F12s.


Secondly, it depends how many Fins Per Inch (FPI) your choice of radiator has.
The higher the FPI the narrower the holes you're trying to push air through. If they're too narrow and/or the fan's airflow spread is too wide, you'll get a compression stall. At best, this robs you of much performance, and at worse* it will knacker your fan. Either way, high FPI usually means more noise, as you have more obstructions around which the airflow is being pushed.
Low FPI rads provide a smoother airflow passage, so accomodate a wider variety of fans. They also allow you to run fans at lower speeds while still moving a decent amount of air, so can be quieter.
If you want high FPI, then you'll definitely need high static pressure fans, ideally ones with high speed, too. Just be sure that you also have a reasonable airflow volume to take advantage of the pressure.

Personally, I run low FPI 45mm Alphacool rads, with Corsair ML120 (original, non-RGB version) in push-pull. A friend of mine also runs these, but with three 60mm rads, and even n the lowest speeds (about 200rpm) he typically gets temps within 2ºC of ambient at idle.

As above, the UNI fans certainly aren't bad, spec-wise. They're not top end, but they are a very good balance of stats and quite respectable. I'd not hesitate to recommend them.
What sets them apart from other fans is the number of really cool features, like the connecting frames. Lots of little things that I think other fan Mfrs wish they'd thought up before!

[Krupi]

Thanks for the quick response Ttaskmaster.

I am definitely aiming for a silent build.

Regarding FPI at the moment they are just arbitrary values to me, the EK PE 360 I have already purchased has an FPI value of 19 compared to the Alphacool XT45 of 15 (I assume this is the one you own). Is 19 FPI decent?

[Krupi]

I am surprised no one else has made a fan that connects together so, it seems like such a great idea in principle.

[Ttaskmaster]

Thanks for the quick response Ttaskmaster.
I am definitely aiming for a silent build.
Regarding FPI at the moment they are just arbitrary values to me, the EK PE 360 I have already purchased has an FPI value of 19 compared to the Alphacool XT45 of 15 (I assume this is the one you own). Is 19 FPI decent?

Yep, mine are XT45 Crossflows.
19 is a fairly high FPI but is also pretty standard, really. I've seen 22 FPI on some of them.

So yeah, I reckon either the Noctua NF-A12 or the UNI fans will do fine for 19fpi.
Get them in PWM and have the system run those as low as you can while still maintaining acceptable temperatures. You can always add a second set of fans if you need push-pull for a performance bump.

[Krupi]

Thanks again Ttaskmaster.

I will check out those fans, it will be a while before I see performance though as I am waiting for Zen 3 to drop before I start this build,