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Thread: my watercooling

  1. #1
    Senior Member SilentDeath's Avatar
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    Talking my watercooling

    ive just changed to watercooling from an slk800.i wanted to remove all the fans in my case, as i hate loud niosy fans. Ive looked at kits but they just seem poor quality. Some sites have custom kits where you can choose what you want, over-clock.co.uk and pclincs.co.uk do this, though i found them to be far too expensive (about £450 if i bought everything from them). Most of my w/c stuff is either second hand or made by myself and my dad.
    I was going to make all the blocks and rad instead of buying second hand stuff, but i decided it would have taken too long.

    these are the parts ive got:
    eheim 1250 pump - £25 second hand -


    car heatercore - this was £10 from a local car repair shop, dunno what car its from


    atlantis cpu block - £10, cheap because it has a small crack in the poly top, but it wont leak, tested with my bath tap on full, which is about 50l/h, compared to about 10l/h that will be going round mine when its done. If it does leak i can solder on a copper top, probobly made from flatetned copper pipe or something


    atlantis northbridge block - £20 second hand, but unused, got with the pump with tubing for £50
    i cant use this block amt due to my tubing will just kink, not enuf distance between it and the cpu block :(


    I just had look in kitchen and found 2 perfect biscuit tins i can use, ones plastic which i will use for a resevior, its perfect size for my eheim 1250 to be submersed, and the tubing will go in and out through the lid. this makes an annoying hum as the water vibrates against it, can be heard downstairs, so i need a new res.


    i was going to use the second for a shroud for my heatercore, but i think i will use some wood as it will look nicer and make less niose.



    this is the gfx gpu block (pic shows it unfinished) with materials for some other things. the copper pipe is known as a T reducer, it has a inlet and 2 outlets at 90 degrees, one of the oulets being 22mm while the rest is 15mm. the 22mm outlet has been choped off. the base of te T is 22mm which gives less flow resistance than 15mm ones, and gives more contact area to the silver base. the silver base about 3mm thick. my dad was able to squash it a bit more at work so now its about 62mm long and about 31mm wide. ive drilled holes in it and got a dangerden mounitng kit to hold fix it on



    this is the silver i had, the big peice is the gfx block. my dad can melt and reshape the rest soon so i can make a cpu block with it as the atlantis is crap. the 3 small bits are 100g in total so the big bit is about 120g. silver costs about £180 per KG, but this was free :)

    ive got copper pipe which ive flattened, could make some good ram heatspreaders from them. also need to get decent cooling for my gfx mem, im going to try a small silver based waterblock but i need to design it carefully due to layout of the card

    Total cost is just under £100 not including the free silver and spare pipe and materials i had.. i will be adding some waterblocks for my hdd's later on which will inc cost a bit as ill need some more pipe.. also i will cool the mem on my 9700 when i think of a way to do it..

    the cpu block doesnt give me any better temps than air, but its the oposite with the gpu block. i knew with cpu i wouldnt be able to clock much higher atall with watercooling, i didnt think it would eb worth it just for cpu, as cpu clocks dont affect performace much..
    the temp of the air comonig out my heatercore is about 26c, water temp is 28, the air temp is about 22. with cpu idle i get 34 but it rises to 45 under heavy load, and the water gets upto about 35c after four or five hours.
    i havent measured the gpu temps, but ive touched the heatsink, i dont think its more than 3c over water temps. ive also touched the back of the card, it is about the same, so i know the silver is removing most of the heat.
    the gpu stays about the same tempurature when clocked at 420mhz, which is :OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
    i *need* to do voltmods to my card, i think i can get the core to 500-600mhz, not bad for a card with stock of 275 :)
    if my card had better mem which wouldnt artifact at 320, i might have had one of the fastest cards soon :)

    just tested the card in doom3, with 6xaa and 16x af it is very playable, at around 35fps average, with it at 2xaa and 2xaf i get around 70fps average :D

    any suggestion welcome :D
    Last edited by SilentDeath; 23-11-2003 at 05:59 PM.

  2. #2
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    That looks mucho nice

    What case is it all in? and how do u make watercooling for hard drives!!?

    Will
    | XP1600-m | ASUS AN78X Deluxe | r9700 pro | 2x512mb pc37000 |

  3. #3
    Senior Member SilentDeath's Avatar
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    its in a cheap beige case, has a window though... the case has many holes cut in it, ones in the moo tray so i can get to the bolts, and the other is on the back so i can get the tubing out without disconencting the blocks and getting water everywhere

    i will think about getting a nice case some time...

    watercooling for hard drives im stil lthinking how to do it, but it will probly just be square copper pipe touching the sides, with the drive fixed in a 5 1/2" bay, only reson i want to cool my drives is so i can wrap them in lots of niose reduction foam

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    Well post some more pics when you get it all together/half together

    id like to see the progress.

    Good job
    | XP1600-m | ASUS AN78X Deluxe | r9700 pro | 2x512mb pc37000 |

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    Senior Member SilentDeath's Avatar
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    heres few crap quality pics





  6. #6
    Senior Member SilentDeath's Avatar
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    btw it flows like this:

    res->pump->gpu->cpu->rad->res

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    When you putting the nb cooler on? and where is that going in the link? before the CPU?

    The watercooling should look damn sweet with the bl00 in the case

    Will
    | XP1600-m | ASUS AN78X Deluxe | r9700 pro | 2x512mb pc37000 |

  8. #8
    Senior Member SilentDeath's Avatar
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    nb cooler aint going on, for a while. first i need to reseal the barbs, as putting the tubing on made them turn, so i need some ptfe tape
    also theres not enuf space between the blocks, if i try gfx>nb>cpu the tubing between the nb and cpu would kink.i could change it to go nb>gfx>cpu but i dont see the point atm. if i do do it i will wait till i need to refill it.

    next i will be properly mounitng the rad with the wooden shroud ive yet to make, this will give about 1" space between the fans and teh rad which will make it less niosy and work better. will use cardboard to hold the fans to the wood

    *update*
    my alu memsinks are getting too hot so im making some new memsinks
    hopefully ill have them finished in about 2 weeks so when i need to refill i can add them then.
    they wil be made from copper pipe and silver again, like the gpu. the pipe will be 4.9mm ID which will run in parrellel to the gpu and go either back to tank or to something else, instead of joing the rest of the flow again.
    i will make the memsinks by filling the copper pipe with lots of sand, so that it keeps shape when bent, so i can use one single piece to cover both sides.
    im getting 8x 1cm² pieces of silver, at 5mm thickness, which will be compressed with 6mm rod down the middle under 4 tons, making a nice slot down the middle for the copper pipe, which will then be soldered in place
    Last edited by SilentDeath; 24-11-2003 at 01:31 AM.

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