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Thread: Enermax liberty, wont boot.

  1. #1
    Moderator chuckskull's Avatar
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    • chuckskull's system
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    Enermax liberty, wont boot.

    Sitting next to me I have an enermax liberty 620w. Which completely refuses to boot in my machine (see 'my system'). It's already been back to Scan, who claim to have tested it and have it working. They cant seem to tell me much about the testing other than they used an enermax PSU tester, this maybe?

    I've tried with everything plugged in, only basic components plugged in, with the absolute bare minimum and all the combinations in between.

    Everytime, the PSU just 'blipped' (fans spun for a split second etc), then died. The only time it's stayed on for more than a split second was just the motherboard connectors plugged in. Modular cable buggered maybe?

    Well I'm throwing this out to you lot before I get back on the phone to scan/bung it in the bin.

  2. #2
    The King of Vague Steve B's Avatar
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    have you got access to a voltmeter?

  3. #3
    Moderator chuckskull's Avatar
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    • chuckskull's system
      • Motherboard:
      • Gigabyte Z77-D3H
      • CPU:
      • 3570k @ 4.7 - H100i
      • Memory:
      • 32GB XMS3 1600mhz
      • Storage:
      • 256GB Samsung 850 Pro + 3TB Seagate
      • Graphics card(s):
      • EVGA GTX 980Ti Classified
      • PSU:
      • Seasonic M12 700W
      • Case:
      • Corsair 500R
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10 Pro
      • Monitor(s):
      • Asus VG278HE
      • Internet:
      • FTTC
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve B
    have you got access to a voltmeter?
    Nope, I'm currently working on scan assuration that "all voltages are present and bang on".

    Might start asking around the neighbours if I cant this working.

  4. #4
    The King of Vague Steve B's Avatar
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    maplin sell them for like 3.50

    well handy pieces of kit

  5. #5
    Moderator chuckskull's Avatar
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    • chuckskull's system
      • Motherboard:
      • Gigabyte Z77-D3H
      • CPU:
      • 3570k @ 4.7 - H100i
      • Memory:
      • 32GB XMS3 1600mhz
      • Storage:
      • 256GB Samsung 850 Pro + 3TB Seagate
      • Graphics card(s):
      • EVGA GTX 980Ti Classified
      • PSU:
      • Seasonic M12 700W
      • Case:
      • Corsair 500R
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10 Pro
      • Monitor(s):
      • Asus VG278HE
      • Internet:
      • FTTC
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve B
    maplin sell them for like 3.50

    well handy pieces of kit
    Not as handy as a working PSU

  6. #6
    Flat cap, Whippets, Cave. Clunk's Avatar
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    have you already tried another psu and everything else is working ok?

  7. #7
    Moderator chuckskull's Avatar
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    • chuckskull's system
      • Motherboard:
      • Gigabyte Z77-D3H
      • CPU:
      • 3570k @ 4.7 - H100i
      • Memory:
      • 32GB XMS3 1600mhz
      • Storage:
      • 256GB Samsung 850 Pro + 3TB Seagate
      • Graphics card(s):
      • EVGA GTX 980Ti Classified
      • PSU:
      • Seasonic M12 700W
      • Case:
      • Corsair 500R
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10 Pro
      • Monitor(s):
      • Asus VG278HE
      • Internet:
      • FTTC
    Quote Originally Posted by Clunk
    have you already tried another psu and everything else is working ok?
    Yup I'm posting using it now, using a ****e 420w thermaltake PSU.

  8. #8
    Flat cap, Whippets, Cave. Clunk's Avatar
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    just a longshot, but have you got the extra 2 power connectors plugged in..the floppy and the molex? weirder things have happened

  9. #9
    The King of Vague Steve B's Avatar
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    get a kirby grip and pull the plastic ends off it. insert into pin 14 (green) and any of the black pins and power on the supply. does it remain on or cut out?

  10. #10
    Moderator chuckskull's Avatar
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    • chuckskull's system
      • Motherboard:
      • Gigabyte Z77-D3H
      • CPU:
      • 3570k @ 4.7 - H100i
      • Memory:
      • 32GB XMS3 1600mhz
      • Storage:
      • 256GB Samsung 850 Pro + 3TB Seagate
      • Graphics card(s):
      • EVGA GTX 980Ti Classified
      • PSU:
      • Seasonic M12 700W
      • Case:
      • Corsair 500R
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10 Pro
      • Monitor(s):
      • Asus VG278HE
      • Internet:
      • FTTC
    Quote Originally Posted by Clunk
    just a longshot, but have you got the extra 2 power connectors plugged in..the floppy and the molex? weirder things have happened
    Yup tried it. Board boots fine without them too. No luck there.

    Quote Originally Posted by steve b
    get a kirby grip and pull the plastic ends off it. insert into pin 14 (green) and any of the black pins and power on the supply. does it remain on or cut out?
    I dont think I have any to hand, see what I can find though.

  11. #11
    The King of Vague Steve B's Avatar
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    anything electrically conductive should do the trick

  12. #12
    Moderator chuckskull's Avatar
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    • chuckskull's system
      • Motherboard:
      • Gigabyte Z77-D3H
      • CPU:
      • 3570k @ 4.7 - H100i
      • Memory:
      • 32GB XMS3 1600mhz
      • Storage:
      • 256GB Samsung 850 Pro + 3TB Seagate
      • Graphics card(s):
      • EVGA GTX 980Ti Classified
      • PSU:
      • Seasonic M12 700W
      • Case:
      • Corsair 500R
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10 Pro
      • Monitor(s):
      • Asus VG278HE
      • Internet:
      • FTTC
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve B
    anything electrically conductive should do the trick
    Yeah I did finish GCSE science

  13. #13
    Moderator chuckskull's Avatar
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    • chuckskull's system
      • Motherboard:
      • Gigabyte Z77-D3H
      • CPU:
      • 3570k @ 4.7 - H100i
      • Memory:
      • 32GB XMS3 1600mhz
      • Storage:
      • 256GB Samsung 850 Pro + 3TB Seagate
      • Graphics card(s):
      • EVGA GTX 980Ti Classified
      • PSU:
      • Seasonic M12 700W
      • Case:
      • Corsair 500R
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10 Pro
      • Monitor(s):
      • Asus VG278HE
      • Internet:
      • FTTC
    Stays on as long as they're shorted.

    EDIT: After some more poking. The PSU stays on fine so long as only the 24 connector is connected(or just shorted, to turn it on). When it is already on, you can add all the load you like to it, BUT if you try and turn it on with even one connector attacted (even a fan). It just dies. Theres also a click when this happens, short circuit protection maybe?

    Any ideas?
    Last edited by chuckskull; 04-09-2006 at 06:44 PM.

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    The King of Vague Steve B's Avatar
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    potentially. if your confident you can open it up and see whats actually up with it. though this'll void ur warranty and be pretty dodgy as theres some big-ass caps in these new psu's. give u a right kick up the arse if you short them!

  15. #15
    Moderator chuckskull's Avatar
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    • chuckskull's system
      • Motherboard:
      • Gigabyte Z77-D3H
      • CPU:
      • 3570k @ 4.7 - H100i
      • Memory:
      • 32GB XMS3 1600mhz
      • Storage:
      • 256GB Samsung 850 Pro + 3TB Seagate
      • Graphics card(s):
      • EVGA GTX 980Ti Classified
      • PSU:
      • Seasonic M12 700W
      • Case:
      • Corsair 500R
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10 Pro
      • Monitor(s):
      • Asus VG278HE
      • Internet:
      • FTTC
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve B
    potentially. if your confident you can open it up and see whats actually up with it. though this'll void ur warranty and be pretty dodgy as theres some big-ass caps in these new psu's. give u a right kick up the arse if you short them!
    I dont wanna void my warrenty just yet, £110 going down the drain aint my cup of tea. Waiting for a reply from scan, about how they tested the PSU. I have a feeling they tested the 24 pin and nothing else. When I spoke to someone last night there reply was "uhh.. we chacked the voltages", didn't inspire much confidence.

    A bit more wrangling with scan and probably some with coolergiant, and then I'll consider taking it apart

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckskull
    Stays on as long as they're shorted.

    EDIT: After some more poking. The PSU stays on fine so long as only the 24 connector is connected(or just shorted, to turn it on). When it is already on, you can add all the load you like to it, BUT if you try and turn it on with even one connector attacted (even a fan). It just dies. Theres also a click when this happens, short circuit protection maybe?

    Any ideas?
    It sounds like one of the connectors is shorting out and the short circuit protection kicks in. You can try all the connectors one at a time and see which one is bad. I'd suggest you to contact Enermax and get it replaced.

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