Getting back into cycling

[Allen]

So, a few years ago I started having back problems, lost the ability to exercise and put on weight. Recently I had an operation to remove my appendix and lost a bit of weight (although I'm still suffering with recurring infections), but I really want to try and get back into reasonable shape. So I've decided to get back into cycling.

However, I'm really undetermined as to what bike to get. I currently have a very old Saracen, Roughtrax or Hardtrax or something, bright yellow and it's in a bit of a state. Plus I'm constanly getting punctures in the rear wheel so I believe there may be a problem in the rim of the wheel having already checked the tyre and found nothing sticking in it.

Anyway, I will try and get my bike fixed up a bit and then do a few weeks cycling in the evenings and at weekends just to get my fitness up a bit, then I will look at getting a new bike and using it to commute to work, ~12m round trip. The whole journey is on major roads around LHR, so very busy, however since each of these roads have very empty pavements I will most likely do most of my cycling on those for safety. My biggest decision is which type of bike to get, which ias made more difficult due to my planned usage for the bike.

• Road bike - no way, don't like them, too small and probably won't be able to take my abbrasive riding style.
• Hybrid - not sure about these, they don't look great and probably won't be any good for off roading which I would love to at one point get back into.
• MTB - I have always had MTB's, I love them. I love off road cycling, although it will be months before I'm fit enough to head off onto my local tracks.

I think I would like a MTB again, but will it (or I) be able to cope with a 12m round trip? I'm really not sure about Hybrids, are they any good for what I want? I know they're supposed to be the commuter's bike of choice in that they aren't road bikes (for speed) or MTB's (for off road), but I don't like the look of most of them.

If I do get a MTB I'd be looking at a hardtail, I would have no need for fuill suspension. I don't like those horrible grip shifts gears either. So, with that in mind, if you like MTB's or know a lot about them, what would you suggest? I have read a mag recently that reviewed hardtails ini my price range and I came across two which look quite nice, the Carrera Fury and the Decathlon Rockrider 8.1. I don't know either of these brands very well, I'm used to it being Trek, Giant, Kona, Specialized etc who made all the good bikes.

Also, what good accessories would you suggest for a ride of this length? A tool kit and puncture repair kit are obvious, lights for maybe later in the year... clothing? Dunno what's good... Anything else?

I would appreciate any help anyone can give. Sorry if this thread is a bit all over the place.

[Lowe]

12 mile round trip is perfectly doable on an MTB though I'd make sure that you have the following:

Forks which can lock out (should you be doing any real climbing on the route),
Semi slick or slick tyres. Decent slicks make a massive difference to your rolling resistence. Get kevlar lined ones to help avoid punctures (Continental Travelcontacts did me proud for years) and you're halfway there.

Clothing can be bought on the cheap from Aldi and Lidl when they run the 'specials'. It's cheap but decent enough for commuting. Whatever you buy, ensure that you have a high vis colour scheme because unfortunately there's plenty of idiots out there. Ensure when you first start you wear padded underwear to help break your backside in gently. No matter what you do the first fortnight is going to be uncomfortable!

You'll need lights for later on in the year, get a basic flashing LED for the rear, then look into something a bit more usable for the front. I used to use a helmet mounted torch (Fenix LD20 with mount) because it was a great balance between being seen and with a quick mode switch being able to see.

What sort of money have you budgeted for a bike? Does your work offer the Cycle to Work scheme or similar?

[scaryjim]

... Does your work offer the Cycle to Work scheme or similar?

This - check it out as you can save significant amounts which makes a real difference to the quality of bike you can afford.

I'd strongly recommend getting a pannier rack and panniers if you ever carry *anything* on your bike - much more comfortable and less sweaty than a rucksack. And definitely a hi-vis vest at an absolute minimum.

When I got my new bike I chose a Trek Soho, which is a city hybrid, and it's very comfortable and pretty rugged - although I had to have the pedals changed because I'm not a small chap and I managed to explode the cheap plastic stock pedals in about 2 months - I've got good solid all-metal pedals now which are much better.

[Salazaar]

When I got my new bike I chose a Trek Soho, which is a city hybrid, and it's very comfortable and pretty rugged - although I had to have the pedals changed because I'm not a small chap and I managed to explode the cheap plastic stock pedals in about 2 months - I've got good solid all-metal pedals now which are much better.

I got a Ridgeback Velocity (another decent hybrid) just over a year ago on our work scheme, which I'm very happy with. Likewise, it came with cheap plastic pedals which I broke twice before getting a solid set of metal ones.

Back to the OP, whether you get a hybrid or a full on MTB, road tyres (and wheels) will make cycling on the road much easier but with the trade off of being much worse off road. That's the real decision you'll have to make...

[Allen]

Forks which can lock out (should you be doing any real climbing on the route),

Well, the route is very flat except for one railway bridge which is probably less than 100m of uphill climb at a pretty low angle. However, the Decathlon bike I'm looking at has handlebar mounted remote lockout and rebound adjustment. Maybe a bit OTT but nice to have adjustment available whilst you ride.

Semi slick or slick tyres. Decent slicks make a massive difference to your rolling resistence. Get kevlar lined ones to help avoid punctures (Continental Travelcontacts did me proud for years) and you're halfway there.

Thanks for the advise on the tyres. What would be the real difference between MTB and road tyres, just a little more drag if you use MTB tyres? If it's not a huge difference, maybe I should stick with MTB tyres to push myself a bit more, help the fitness?

Clothing can be bought on the cheap from Aldi and Lidl when they run the 'specials'. It's cheap but decent enough for commuting. Whatever you buy, ensure that you have a high vis colour scheme because unfortunately there's plenty of idiots out there. Ensure when you first start you wear padded underwear to help break your backside in gently. No matter what you do the first fortnight is going to be uncomfortable!

Nice hint about the padded undies, didn't think of that. As for other clothing, I guess since it's just a bit of on road cycling I should just stick with whatever I feel comfortable with. Would hi vis be really necessary if I'm mainly on the pavements?

You'll need lights for later on in the year, get a basic flashing LED for the rear, then look into something a bit more usable for the front. I used to use a helmet mounted torch (Fenix LD20 with mount) because it was a great balance between being seen and with a quick mode switch being able to see.

I'll remember this, but I don't think I'll need lights for a few months, will help spread out the cost too.

What sort of money have you budgeted for a bike? Does your work offer the Cycle to Work scheme or similar?

I was thinking up to £500 which both the bikes I listed are roughly that price. I looked into the Cycle Scheme but I can't see how anyone benefits from it. From what I can tell, you "hire" the bike for an amount that comes out of your salary then at the end of the agreement you get the option of buying the bike for it's market value... That can't be right?

[Allen]

This - check it out as you can save significant amounts which makes a real difference to the quality of bike you can afford.

As above, I can't see how it helps. Unless I'm missing something?

I'd strongly recommend getting a pannier rack and panniers if you ever carry *anything* on your bike - much more comfortable and less sweaty than a rucksack. And definitely a hi-vis vest at an absolute minimum.

I know it sounds stupid, but I really dislike panniers. Would a rucksack with breathable padding suffice as I already have one like this?

When I got my new bike I chose a Trek Soho, which is a city hybrid, and it's very comfortable and pretty rugged - although I had to have the pedals changed because I'm not a small chap and I managed to explode the cheap plastic stock pedals in about 2 months - I've got good solid all-metal pedals now which are much better.

Will keep an eye out for the peddles on the bike I get then, thanks.

[Allen]

Back to the OP, whether you get a hybrid or a full on MTB, road tyres (and wheels) will make cycling on the road much easier but with the trade off of being much worse off road. That's the real decision you'll have to make...

You think I would need road wheels as well as tyres? That's taking the cost up quite a bit and kind of defeating the point of getting a MTB in the first place isn't it? Isn't a Hybrid essentially an MTB with road wheels and tyres?

[Allen]

Oh, by the way, one other thing... The bikes I'm looking at come with disc brakes. When I last looked at getting a mountain bike several years ago, most with these brake systems were really expensive, so are they worth the extra cost? Anyone know? I'm wondering if ~£500 bikes are maybe a bit too much for what I want to do and if I'd be better off getting something a little cheaper.

Maybe it would be a good idea to go to a local dealer (not Halfords, a shop that specialises in MTB's and therefore cares about their customers) and discuss my options/thoughts with them. Anyone know any decent dealers around LHR, Middlesex or Surrey?

[GheeTsar]

I was thinking up to £500 which both the bikes I listed are roughly that price. I looked into the Cycle Scheme but I can't see how anyone benefits from it. From what I can tell, you "hire" the bike for an amount that comes out of your salary then at the end of the agreement you get the option of buying the bike for it's market value... That can't be right?

The key benefit is that you pay for it out of your salary before tax and NI, so saving a subtantial amount, particularly if you're a higher rate tax payer.

As for disc brakes - they are not worth having for road usage at all. Their major benefit it mud clearance on mountain bikes. Whatever you do don't buy cable operated disc brakes - hydraulic or not at all.

[Allen]

The key benefit is that you pay for it out of your salary before tax and NI, so saving a subtantial amount, particularly if you're a higher rate tax payer.

From here: http://www.cyclescheme.co.uk/employee,faqs.htm

* Step 1. Once an employer has entered into a contract with Cyclescheme (employers can sign up via this website) any employees wishing to participate need to visit a Cyclescheme Partner Shop to choose the bike and, if required, safety equipment. Find participating bike shops using the search on this website.

* Step 2. Employees then apply for a Cyclescheme Voucher by finding out their Cyclescheme Employer Code and entering the information provided by the bike shop online. The employee will usually sign an online Hire Agreement at this time.

* Step 3. If the employer approves their application they will countersign the Hire Agreement and pay Cyclescheme for the full retail price of the bike and equipment.

* Step 4. Cyclescheme will then issue a Voucher to either the employee or the employer, wherever is requested.

* Step 5. The Voucher is then redeemed in the bike shop and exchanged for the bike package. Salary sacrifice then commences over the hire period (usually 12 months).

* Step 6. At the end of the hire period the owner of the bike may choose to offer the employee ownership of the bike for a full market value.

This leads me to believe that you pay a hire charge (as per step 2 and 5 once all forms have been completed) during the time you have the bike, but you still don't own the bike at the end of the agreement unless you buy the bike for the "full market value" (as per step 6) after already paying for it for 12 months.



I may be getting confused somewhere, and I also don't know how much you pay every month nor how much you pay at the end, but how is this cheaper?

As for disc brakes - they are not worth having for road usage at all. Their major benefit it mud clearance on mountain bikes. Whatever you do don't buy cable operated disc brakes - hydraulic or not at all.

I'm assuming cable operated are just like standard v-brakes that have a steel cable running inside a tube to the brake unlike hydraulic which would be fluid? Is there a big difference between the two?

[GheeTsar]

From here: http://www.cyclescheme.co.uk/employee,faqs.htm

This leads me to believe that you pay a hire charge (as per step 2 and 5 once all forms have been completed) during the time you have the bike, but you still don't own the bike at the end of the agreement unless you buy the bike for the "full market value" (as per step 6) after already paying for it for 12 months.



I may be getting confused somewhere, and I also don't know how much you pay every month nor how much you pay at the end, but how is this cheaper?


I'm assuming cable operated are just like standard v-brakes that have a steel cable running inside a tube to the brake unlike hydraulic which would be fluid? Is there a big difference between the two?

Unless your company is in the business of second hand bikes or bike rental, they will not be interested in keeping the bike and will probably sell it to you for buttons or at most its second hand value (full market value means it value after the year of use). My employer has set out guidelines which is very clear about how this works in our case, but you will need to speak to your employer to see a) if they will do the scheme and b) how they plan to deal with its value.

I've already got a nice, if old, bike but my mate did it recently and saved about £500 on a £1000 bike in the end.

As for disc brakes - yup you've got it right. There is a huge difference between the two - the cable is prone to stretching whereas liquid is obviously not. In terms of cable brakes - v brakes are just as effective, if not more so, than their disc equivalent and cost much less. Hydraulic discs OTOH are extremely effective.

[Allen]

Unless your company is in the business of second hand bikes or bike rental, they will not be interested in keeping the bike and will probably sell it to you for buttons or at most its second hand value (full market value means it value after the year of use). My employer has set out guidelines which is very clear about how this works in our case, but you will need to speak to your employer to see a) if they will do the scheme and b) how they plan to deal with its value.

I've already got a nice, if old, bike but my mate did it recently and saved about £500 on a £1000 bike in the end.

My company does do the scheme, but after emailing them the other day they advised that it was past the "cut off" for applying for it. I dunno if this is just my company that limits when you can apply for the scheme or not, but it seemed a bit weird considering you can ride bikes all year round. I will ask them again for more info and pricing etc as that website isn't at all clear to me...

As for disc brakes - yup you've got it right. There is a huge difference between the two - the cable is prone to stretching whereas liquid is obviously not. In terms of cable brakes - v brakes are just as effective, if not more so, than their disc equivalent and cost much less. Hydraulic discs OTOH are extremely effective.

Cool, I can cross them off my list then as I don't think I will be needing anything as lavish as hydraulic discs. Without them the cost will be lower or the other components can be better.

[Terbinator]

As per title, i got back on my bike today did around say 6 miles of off road and around 2 on road coming back: it felt good but the bike definitely needs maintenance and perhaps some new components - tyres being the top of the list and as Scary pointed out - some new pedals.

[Tumble]

Personally I wouldn't have rim brakes again (well maybe the Magura hydraulic ones) I've had discs for 12 years now and they really work - especially if it's wet, and it keeps your rims looking nice too. If you did get a bike with rim brakes though - you can pick up a set of hydraulic mags for not a lot these days: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Ma...et/5360015088/ A VERY worthy upgrade if you don't want to go for hydraulic discs. As Gheetsar rightly said don't touch mechanical disc brakes - good idea, but sadly not very well executed.

[scaryjim]

Cyclescheme works as salary sacrifice - your employer owns the bike, deducts your monthly payments (1/12 of the total purchase cost of the bike + safety equipment) from your salary *before tax* and sends them to cyclescheme. That means that you actually save a significant amount: for instance, my monthly payment was ~ £50, but because I didn't get taxed or ni'de on that my take home only dropped ~ £35. The clauses about paying reasonable / full market value at the end of the hire period are for legal reasons, as they can't agree a purchase price with you in advance and still run the scheme under salary sacrifice. I've just had my secondary agreement through from cyclescheme, and they're asking for a further £35 in order to transfer ownership of the bike to me. So all told I've got £600 worth of bike + equipment for ~ £450. Like you I was a bit suspicious at first, but, unsurprisingly, I'm glad I went for it.

My current bike has mechanical disc brakes and I've had no problems with them at all. They're far better than any rim brakes I've ever had - although that said I'm generally a road bike man so I've mostly had side-pull calipers....

[chrestomanci]

I'd strongly recommend getting a pannier rack and panniers if you ever carry *anything* on your bike - much more comfortable and less sweaty than a rucksack. And definitely a hi-vis vest at an absolute minimum.

I think that would depend on how much stuff you are carrying.

I am cycling part of the way to work at the moment, and the second hand bike I brought for the purpose had a front basket fitted. It looks a bit strange, but it is incredibly useful to just chuck a few things in there, and get them out at my destination. You can't carry more than about 5 kg without it affecting the steering, but for a few odd things like my lunch it is very handy.

If you have even less stuff than that you can always put it in your pockets.