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Thread: MK1 MR2 brake discs and wheel bearings- bunch of questions

  1. #1
    Now with added sobriety Rave's Avatar
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    MK1 MR2 brake discs and wheel bearings- bunch of questions

    I've asked this before I think but I might as well ask again in this lovely purpose built section.

    There's a small amount of play in the wheel bearings of my Mk1 MR2 (later type, 1988), so even if it gets through its MOT in a month's time I'm going to need to replace them sooner or later. Basically, is this a job that a DIYer can manage? How much do the actual bearings cost and where's the best place to buy them? If I can't do the whole job myself, can I save some money by doing a bit myself, say by taking the hubs off and then getting a mechanic to replace the bearings? Or is it a cheap enough job that it's not worth the bother?

    Also I'd like to replace the brake discs and pads at some point; the brakes still work absolutely fine, but they squeal and the discs look a bit worn. I did have a copy of Mechanics which had a guide to doing them but I think the wife threw it away while tidying up. Is this a hard job? Again, where's the best place to buy the parts on the cheap? I'm not really worried about buying pattern stuff as long as it works, I only do 2-3000 miles a year so it's no bother if it wears quicker than normal, it'll still last.

    The other problem is the Handbrake. To get it through the MOT two years ago I had to have new rear calipers and cables fitted at great expense. Last year it also failed but the garage who did the work originally nipped it up again and got it through. This year I don;t really want to have to go all the way back to them 'cos they're quite a way away, so can I adjust them myself?

    TIA for any help.

    Rich :¬)

    Edit: more questions. The gearbox action is getting notchier and more difficult. I want to replace the gearbox oil with good synthetic stuff, is this an easy job, and where's the best place to get pukka gearbox oil?

    Finally it has an aftermarket cone type filter which has seen better days. I could get a replacement from Fensport for about £40, anyone know a way of getting them cheaper?
    Last edited by Rave; 25-03-2004 at 03:55 PM.

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    Senior Member Tumble's Avatar
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    well... to get the wheel bearings out you gotta have the discs off anyway... Don't think it's too hard - certainly isn't on mine..... and there will be an adjuster somewhere for the handbrake. Can you get hold of a Haynes manual or something similar? that'll show ya where to look.

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  3. #3
    Now with added sobriety Rave's Avatar
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    They only made one for the US model for some reason, although I expect the cars are broadly similar. I suppose I should get one. It's irritating though.

    Rich :¬)

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    Oh no!I've re-dorkalated! Jiff Lemon's Avatar
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    Think I still have the MR2 handbook somewhere (yes, I used to own one!).

    First things first...

    Handbrake: Like most rear disc braked cars, the handbrake is never going to be up to much. DO NOT SIMPLY TIGHTEN THE CABLES!!!!! Usually all thats required is a strip down and clean off all the accumlated sh1te that's actually stopping the handbrake from working. It's also worth noting that disc braked handrake have a lower effeciency to reach come MOT time (15% instead of 25% IIRC).

    Gearbox oil: Jap gearboxes need special oil! Don't go filling them with any cheap stuff. I used to used millers semi synthetic stuff (TRX synth I think it was called). HAS to be GL5 rated. Crunchy second gear syncro problems suddenly vanished !

    Brakes: Changing the discs is no different than on any other car. Discs and pads are widely available from just about any motor factors. Don't skimp here - look for named products - Mintex pads instead of plain white box stuff.

    Wheel bearings: Having never done them on an MR2 I'd be tempted to say punt into a garage for this. If I can fish out the manual I'll have a look whats involved.

    Still..... I'd be more concerned about the front floor pans, rear sills and back arches!

    Get the plastic trims off and start looking for rot!

    And q's feel free to ask

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    HEXUS.timelord. Zak33's Avatar
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    Nice replies matey..

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    Now with added sobriety Rave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jiff Lemon
    Handbrake: Like most rear disc braked cars, the handbrake is never going to be up to much. DO NOT SIMPLY TIGHTEN THE CABLES!!!!! Usually all thats required is a strip down and clean off all the accumlated sh1te that's actually stopping the handbrake from working. It's also worth noting that disc braked handrake have a lower effeciency to reach come MOT time (15% instead of 25% IIRC).
    Yeah, I wondered why it was so crud. Apparently Mk1s (and Corollas of the same era) are notoriously weak in that area.

    Gearbox oil: Jap gearboxes need special oil! Don't go filling them with any cheap stuff. I used to used millers semi synthetic stuff (TRX synth I think it was called). HAS to be GL5 rated. Crunchy second gear syncro problems suddenly vanished !
    Now that would be just what I need....although all the gears are starting to crunch a bit now! I haven't done a fast shift in a long time, although I tend not to thrash it much anymore so as not to waste petrol :/.

    Brakes: Changing the discs is no different than on any other car. Discs and pads are widely available from just about any motor factors. Don't skimp here - look for named products - Mintex pads instead of plain white box stuff.
    Ah, O.K. I'm a bit wary of attacking the job because I once bought all the parts to do my Nissan Praerie after a guy told me it was a reasonably easy job, only to find once I'd got the caliper off that the disc needed a special puller to remove it. By that point I'd belted the hell out of it with a hammer trying to get it off and there was no way the car was going anywhere under it's own steam in that state- not with working brakes anyway. I left it for too long, then the car got broken into and all my parts and tools nicked, and the car ended up getting scrapped .

    Wheel bearings: Having never done them on an MR2 I'd be tempted to say punt into a garage for this. If I can fish out the manual I'll have a look whats involved.
    Any chance of a rough guess at the likely cost?

    Still..... I'd be more concerned about the front floor pans, rear sills and back arches!
    The sills were done last year to get it through the MOT. I could actually feel the difference driving over bumps and stuff afterwards, they must have been pretty bad!. The rear arches are long gone already; in fact the whole car is a scruffy old dog externally. There's a big dent in the back where someone hit me from behind (spent the insurance payout on beer and never got it fixed ), one of the headlight motors doesn't work and there's a dent near it where I ran into someone, the paint finish is knackered....

    To be honest, the car is never going to look mint again, not without having a fortune spent on it anyway, so I'm going to spend my money on the mechanicals. I don't care how it looks as long as it's safe and goes well. I'll eventually get round to replacing the headlight motor, it's actually the position sensor that's gone, water got in and rotted all the copper away. For the time being I just leave it up and drive a one-eyed car during the day.

    And q's feel free to ask
    I will, and I greatly appreciate the help already given. Cheers!

    Rich :¬)

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    Oh no!I've re-dorkalated! Jiff Lemon's Avatar
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    Whens the MOT due? ALWAYS put them through one calender month befor ethe due date. If it passes, and you've given them the old certificate, they can add up to one calender month onto your new certificate - 13 months MOT

    However, they can ONLY add a maximum of 1 calender month.

    I'd say pop it in for MOT before spending any money, see how scarey the list is!

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