My brakes have started squeaking, surprisingly enough, when I brake. Not all the time, but they do it sometimes and it annoys me a bit... what normally causes this and what can I do about it?
well basically wear and tear, but if its just started, go to your local garage and ask for a tube of copper grease, its expensive but basically apply to brake pads and jobs a goodun, squeeky breaks be gone, although your pads could be on the way out but copper grease works a treat its what most mechanics will use anyway when applying new pads
Steam: (Grey_Mata) || Hexus Trust
just put new pads on it. DON'T put copper grease on 'disk side' of the pads either - unless you don't want to stop! and I can't see how putting it elsewhere would stop squeaking? i'm assuming they aren't drum brakes?
Nox
Last edited by Nox; 01-12-2004 at 08:58 AM.
Depends if they front or rear brakes that are squeeling.
Lack of abestos in the friction material means that squeeling is more common.
Generally it's a sign that the accumalated dust needs cleaning and then everything cleaned up and greased.
Very true, you can try copper grease but it depends on the formulation in the friction material of the pads you have got.Originally Posted by Jiff Lemon
If it doesn't solve it, you may want to get a set of 'softer' pads or pads with a high Carbon content, you'll get a lot more brake dust but they should be a lot quieter (until the dust builds up ). VAG use Textar as OE to combat noise and to increase service intervals, they have a really high carbon content, hence why most VAG's you see have loads of brake dust on the wheels.
It can be advantageous to use softer pads anyway as your discs will last longer...
No Sensei, i'm not kicking the mats to waste time, they have parted and I don't want to injure myself!
Originally Posted by Jiff Lemon
I would of said generally its a sign of needing to replace the pads! If they are worn down enough, metal on metal will squeak. Use it as an early warning and take a GOOD look at them...
Nox
Originally Posted by Nox
You stick it on the back of the pads, where the piston pushes on em. the squeak is just a very high frequency vibrataion... the grease damps the vibration out, stopping the squeak. Done this on me mountain bike - works a treat (got hydraulic disc brakes)
Originally Posted by The Quentos
forgot to add, some places call it copper slip instead of grease but its the same stuff, but as said if you are getting squeeling from the brakes strip em down and take a good look as they could be shot instead of on their way out.
Steam: (Grey_Mata) || Hexus Trust
Some cars have a low pad warning device which is a piece of metal which comes in contace with the disc when the pad is low. This makes a squeeling noise. Otherwise copper grease is the way to go. either way you need to take the pads out, so you'll be able to look and see if the pad is low.
or...its just possible...that a small rodent is sat on the caliper. Now he's a quiet, nice little chap, who keeps himself to himself.... but when the brakes get REALLY HOT, they burn his bum, and he squeaks to show his objection.
Well....that's what I tell people
can't say fairer to be honest
Originally Posted by Advice Trinity by Knoxville
Next you'll be saying theres a cat living on his gearbox!
Originally Posted by Zak33
what on earth was in that schmoke you had with your pancake last night??
Originally Posted by The Quentos
hey guys, i really need some help.
My Car - Skoda Octavia (maybe 08/09 or something - not the fantasia look the one before it)
When I’m braking (specifically, right before I’m about to come to a complete stop) I hear a high pitched squeaking sound. But I got to the point where this is what I know.
1 - My brake pads are fine; they are still 'new.' I know the sound when your brake pads are out, it has happened to me like 3 times with this car. It’s much louder. This is a more high pitched but not nearly as loud sound - nevertheless very annoying.
2 - I tried the whole drive fast, and stop thing. It might have worked for a bit but the sound came back. I’m not sure if I did it fast enough (i.e. both with respect to speed and stopping speed) but I will try again later today when the roads are emptier and I can find a good spot.
3 - the mechanic (officially licensed Skoda, VW, Audi, Peugeot, Benz, bmw, etc...) guy said something about rust, and that maybe washed my car/rims when the metal was still hot and it ruined (i.e. eroded/rusted) it.
4 - When I told him about the supposed anti-squeaking gel that you put on the back of the rotor I think, he said they don’t have it or maybe the car doesn’t have that. So I’m not sure about that one either. Also, when I told him about the 'wire' that can be used to remove rust he said he doesn’t know about that either. So those two things I will try to find another licensed place and ask him.
5 - We cleaned the rimes/brakes/etc... (We did not remove wheel, we just air cleaned it) and he sprayed them with what I think is good quality stuff (looked foreign - live in Egypt and don’t trust local stuff) and it was fixed but for less than a day.
Help plz....
Depending on the brakes and mileage of the car it could be any number of things, if the pads had been on since new and its a 08 plate and say 30000k they will be due to be replaced, a lot of pads now contain a small metal strip that contacts the disc on breaking making the high pitched squeal to tell you the pads are shot.
If you convinced the pads are fine you need to strip the brakes down and clean them, this can be done using emery paper, something with a decent grit I would think around 320-400 maybe less, clean the pad faces and the disc itself, pay attention to the lip around the edge to make sure its clean. You then need to use copper grease on the back of the pads (NOT ON THE FACE) this allows the pad to move freely. If a piece of rock or something has entered the pad it may have scored the disc itself causing grooves, these will need planing out by a professional. Don't use any copper grease on the disc either, you can put it on the back of the disc more specifically the hub to allow you to get it off easier in the future but you shouldn't need the disc off.
Make sure you don't loose the anti rattle springs when you dismantling the calliper (the bit that holds the pads), if you have drum brakes which I doubt were you can't see the disc behind the wheel, don't bother dismantling them as its too easy to loose bits.
If you do decide to give it a go make sure no-one presses the brakes while your pulling it apart, as the calliper piston will fly out then it becomes a nightmare lol.
Any yer holy threat necromancy lol.
It can be caused by 'glazing' on the friction surface. This usually occures when people ride the brakes i.e. braking a little for a longer than necessary period, coming up to a round about for example.
This can be resolved like the previous posted said, buy rubbing the pads with coarse emery paper.
Alternativly if its only a mild case, some heavy braking manuvous could remove the glazed surface.
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