Personally, I would not regard any publisher or publication that let the company pick the reviewer as professional. And a lot of the reviews I've done have been in computer hardware, though not so much gaming.
Most of the time, I've approached the editor with the ideas and I end up doing the review. A manufacturer can agree to supply product for review, or decline to do so, but they can't pick the reviewer. As for site being plastered on adverts, well, that can go more than one way. If the site and or magazine is professional, it has no bearing on a review. In thousands of reviews, over 20 years, not once has advertising ever influenced the review, for the simple reason that not once have I ever had a conversation with the advertising team, and not once has an editor ever changed my opinions, or results, or indicated that they want a review to conclude anything particular.
In these days of anyone setting up a review site, which may or may not be "professional", I'd agree there are some questionable sites out there, and it's certainly the case companies and PR agencies often have limited product for review and prioritise publications where they will get the most high-profile coverage.
Any website that gives an award to anything and everything is, sooner or later, going to lose it's credibility with readers, and so is any reviewer that does that. They are also, IMHO, not "professional". I have no doubt they exist, and are likely quite common, but that's largely a function of how easy it is to set up a website. It's a LOT harder, and vastly more expensive, to set up a printed magazine, and to keep it going. And that is part of the task facing the users of reviews .... assessing whether you can trust the source of it.
I was really shocked when I saw this, I was really naive in thinking that a review would just be published automatically - I hugely rely on reviews as I'm not usually buying for myself on ebuyer it's usually just a Christmas thing, guess I'll have to be more careful in future
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