My cat6 utp + cat6a ftp home network install

[ik9000]

Hi folks after a long hiatus while sorting out other parts of the house we are finally installing the network. I thought I'd make a thread of it to help people in future, and to remind me what the heck I did in the first place down the road. Pictures will be added as we go.

This post will be edited in future to act as a contents list and let you jump to posts on specific items.

01) old threads with useful information
02) ethernet cable types
03) conduit capacity, void requirements
04) dealing with joists
05) chasing walls
06) where to buy kit from

Obviously the usual disclaimers apply - I'm not a professional in this. The thread simply summarises my understanding from reading websites, asking on forums etc. Do not rely on it without doing your own checks, getting professional advice etc. I take no responsibility/accept no liability for any issues you have from relying on anything in this thread, message, or any related posts/threads/messages or other communications etc.

[ik9000]

To aid me finding them in future some great tips and guidance has been in these threads over the past few years:
https://forums.hexus.net/networking-...at6-cable.html
https://forums.hexus.net/networking-...net-cable.html
https://forums.hexus.net/networking-...ing-house.html
https://forums.hexus.net/networking-...able-type.html
https://forums.hexus.net/networking-...e-install.html

[ik9000]

We are installing a combo of 6 and 6A to each room (we had a roll of cat6 utp that I'd been given a year or two back and I bought a box/drum of 6A).

We are (mostly where available) re-using old back-boxes that are in the skirting back-boards (and left over from when the house was re-wired). It saves filling the skirtings and though smaller than modern back boxes the screw spacing is the same so new face plates fit nicely. It also means there are pre-made holes down into the floors for bringing the cables up. There are some areas we're having to chase, form new sockets etc. We are also having to form new routes within the floor voids.

The smaller LJ6c modules fit inside the backboxes (The larger euromodule style ones also look like they'd fit, I picked up a couple from screwfix to begin with and they fit, but everything is more tight and I want to reduce risks of kinks in the cable).

For guaranteed 10G LAN you need 6A and best seems to be shielded 6A if you can afford it. (see post on cable types below)

Get shielded modules if you are using shielded cable.

I'm using u/ftp 6a as it was the cheapest shielded option and only a touch more than utp as well as being LS0H and b2ca fire resistant**. It's also handily orange - so easier to tell the purple 6 from the orange 6a* as I come to wire things up (though the shielding foil would have given it away anyway at the cut ends when wiring the modules, the orange may make future amendments easier. It definitely helps me to tell which cable to pull mid-run when installing without having to work out which is the fatter cable).

To avoid kinks and tight bends I'm using local pieces of PVC pipe conduit in the floor like these:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-ins...ack-of-1/89265
https://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-ins...ack-of-1/98408

I'm also using local runs of PVC pipe conduit in wall chases and key points in the floor voids. This helps keep the cable away from electric cables (min 100mm where possible) and makes pushing the cable along easier as it doesn't snag on insulation, lath and plaster etc. See post below for pipe-fill (void) compliance

*edit: this is just for this cable, not all 6a is orange. Standard 6a utp is also purple from what I can tell, though you can get some kinds of utp in different colours and ftp seems to come in purple or grey. It's possible other manufacturers do different things.

**bc2a refers to its (very good) fire rating/low combustibilty, and smoke emission is the LS0H and LSZH (low smoke zero halgen) being better for not releasing toxic fumes during a fire.

[ik9000]

Ethernet cable types
As well as the overall classification cat5e, cat 6, cat6a etc there are different types of cable shielding.
To summarise lots of reading and advice in other threads

cable types
cat5e = runs at 100MHz,fine for up to 1GB/s, may even do 2.5GB if the kit used supports it and the cable is in good condition, short runs etc.
cat6 = Runs at 250MHz fine for 1GB/s and may, in some circumstances go up to 10GB/s if the kit used supports it and the cable is in good condition, short runs etc.
cat6a = runs at 500MHz and fine for 10GB/s
ignore cat7 - it's not an official standard and uses weird sized connectors vs the others.
the next standards will be cat8 and handle 2000MHz, 40GB/s and stupidly expensive for home use at the moment, or near future.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twisted_pair


The best to install is either cat 6 or cat6a. I wasn't going to bother with 6a but I needed a shielded run in a few locations and cat6a ftp wasn't much more than cat6 ftp so thought I might as well just stick it in now while I have the floors up.

Cable shielding
see here: https://www.belden.com/Blogs/stp-utp...en-to-use-them
utp - unshielded twisted pair = cheapest usually ok for domestic use, unless running parallel to powercables or other sources of interference
u/ftp = unshielded outer, foil shielded individual pairs
u/stp = as u/ftp but with braided screens (not very common)
f/utp = foil shielded sheath, unshielded twisted pairs
s/utp = as f/utp but with braided sheath
f/ftp = foil shielded outer and shielded twisted pairs
s/ftp = braided shielded outer and foil shielded twisted pairs

Generally s/ftp seems to the best overall but is unsurprisingly most expensive. f/ftp is the most cumbersome, biggest diameter, and least flexible.

Note that you want to buy solid copper cabling, no copper-aluminium hybrids or CCA. Stranded cabling is intended for patch cables (the ones you plug the machine into the wall with). A permanent home install should use solid core cables as these engage properly with the modules and keystone connectors (more on this to follow).

Bend radii
Bend radius is min 4x diameter and recommended 7-8x diameter during install (when pulling cables).
cat 6 utp is approx 5.5-6mm diameter
cat 6a f/ftp is approx 7.5-8mm diameter

Installation spacings to mains power cables
From what I can gather fully shielded cable can run parallel to mains power cables at 100mm min spacing, and maybe even 50mm for short distances. Unshielded should be 250mm or more, with short runs at 100mm.

Grounding shielded cables
Shielded cables need to be grounded (at one end only to avoid ground loops) and should have the right shielded connectors with metal keystones and grounded models.

[ik9000]

Conduit fill requirements

It's possible these are US requirements, but there seem to be recommended void 40% in conduits to help prevent heat build-up. It could be this is just to do with PoE requirements, but I'm trying to work to these just in case.
http://cdn2.hubspot.net/hubfs/585555...fill_guide.pdf

so in Φ20mm conduit you can get:
4No 6mm OD cables, or 2No 8mm OD cables
(you can also get 2NoΦ8mm+ 1NoΦ6mm or 1NoΦ8mm and 2NoΦ6mm cables)

in Φ25mm you can get:
4NoΦ8mm + 0NoΦ6mm
3NoΦ8mm + 1NoΦ6mm
2NoΦ8mm + 3NoΦ6mm
1NoΦ8mm + 5NoΦ6mm
0NoΦ8mm + 7NoΦ6mm

In reality these maximums can get quite tight once you take friction and bends into account.

I am finding 2 cables in Φ20mm conduit ok and 4 cables in Φ25mm conduit. We have had no issue pulling pairs of cables through 25mm conduit with 2cables already in there. (We have two drums of cables one Φ6mm, one Φ8mm, so are having to install in pairs rather than feeding all 4 through at once. We are able to do this without using any lubricants, fair liquid solution or the like.)

[ik9000]

Dealing with joists

Using the guidance in the structural timber design codes BS5268-2 and its modern reproduction in PD6693-1 (accompanying information to BS EN 1995) you can work out how to notch joist ends or drill joist middles. Always refer to these documents. My understanding of these is below, but do not rely on it without cross-checking and/or consulting an engineer. I take no responsibility for any problems you get from using these. Newer buildings may have non-solid joists and optimised joist depths that these rules cannot be used with.

Generally notch simple ends but don't drill them. Drill middle regions, don't notch them. Avoid the very middle altogether.
If your joist is <150mm deep or >250mm deep don't touch it without getting advice.

notch depth <=joist depth/8 and only to one side of the joist (never both simultaneously)
position at ends within 0.1 to 0.25x span

hole size <=joist depth/4 (limiting to joist depth/8 recommended)
position within 0.25x to 0.4x span and on centre line (mid height) of joist

Spacing: min 200mm between notches and from notches to the nearest hole (edge)
also check adjacent hole centres are no closer than 4x diameter and ideally min 7x diameter where possible
In some cases you can get away with 3x diameter centre-centre so if things are tight check with an engineer to see if you can use this
If your joists have metal strapping/ties on them then check with an engineer - tensile members may need to further limit notch and hole sizes and spacings/prohibit them altogether.

Note these rules are for standard single-spanning joists which end at supports at each end. Things can get more complicated where joists cantilever or continue across multiple supports. If in doubt always consult a structural engineer.

Obviously reuse redundant notches/holes if they already exist and aren't filled with live power cables etc.

To drill your own holes use an angle drill - standard drills are unlikely to fit between joists. Also use the drill bits with screw-heads like these (rather than the more common chisel bits). They are more accurate and put less lateral force on the drill chuck.


Position and space holes and notches in line with the guidance on minimum distances etc.

[ik9000]

Chasing walls

Solid walls
Use a wall chaser with twin blades to get neat chases , then chisel with an SDS hammer drill. For local areas use an angle grinder with a masonry cutting blade to form back-boxes, outlines in tight areas the chaser won't fit.

(There are also back-box cutter heads you can use, but these tend to need powerful SDS drills and I'm not convinced the impact method they use is a good idea on some kinds of weaker walls. For the domestic user your money is better spent on other tools IMO.)

Chasing walls is messy and the chaser especially throws up a lot of dust. Use a vacuum attachment to a decent industrial hooever (it will ruin domestic ones very quickly) and tent off the area with poly sheeting etc. Be prepared for a lot of cleaning. Definitely not one to try in an occupied room with furnishings and possessions etc that you care about.

Wear eye protection - the SDS drill throws chunks off that will easily blind you if they hit your eyes. I will add a pic of the scuffs and dings on my safety specs later. I'm very glad I was wearing them.

Always scan for hidden metal, power cables, water pipes, gas pipes etc before forming any cuts, holes, chases.

Form deeper chases in two goes, the chaser might not have the oomph to do the whole cut in one hit.

Put the cable in conduit so you can change it easily in future. Fill chases with bonding plaster then skim with polyfiller/fresh plaster. Remember to allow for the plaster depth when sizing your chase depth!

For large areas/ overhead/to help shape cornices or similar geometry consider laying some expanded metal lath to give the plaster something to stick/cling to.


Hollow (stud) walls
Use a stud detector to work out where there is clear space away from studs, and away from power cables, then form local holes at each end and install fish hook or string/whatever to pull cables down the wall behind the plasterboard.
NB to use armoured cable anywhere you think there might be a risk of rodents nibbling the things.
Use backboxes suitable for hollow stud walls and the appropriate types of screw fixings.

Use exterior grade cable anywhere you might run something outside exposed to weather/sunlight.

[ik9000]

where to get cable, modules etc from:
avoid Amazon - it's littered with CCA and you just can't trust people to list products properly.
on Peterb's recommendation I sourced all my stuff from https://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/ and they were fine. I just wish they took Amex directly same as with visa etc instead of making you go via paypal payments.

Cable Monkey are the UK outlet for Connectix who are one of the major cable suppliers and I've found their prices to be very competitive. I couldn't find better for what I needed (that I could be confident wasn't CCA but actual solid copper). Their module prices are also a lot lower than elsewhere.

Where to get building tools
If you need general building tools the usual places sell stuff. DIY stores, also tradestores like Screwfix, Toolstation etc, and then online sites. I'm not going to tell you where to shop but do support local / UK businesses where possible, especially in the current climate.

Consider whether for home DIY a cabled 240V tool will last you longer than a cordless one requiring battery packs, chargers and the like. The environmental footprint of cabled tools is lower, and can potentially give you more years of service when only infrequent DIY use is concerned since there are no batteries to degrade/no longer be available to force you to upgrade in future.

Obviously don't get 110V tools for UK domestic use. They are for building sites. This is particularly important to check if the listing is just for "cabled tool" - I have made that mistake once! I always check now.

[ik9000]

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