Water cooling?

[SilentDeath]

You will be disapointed if you think a 80.1 rad will give that much better temps than an air cooler.

If you do some modding you can fit a much better rad in your case. for example I cut a large hole in the bottom panel and mobo tray so I could fit 2 200mm rads.

[r1zeek]

You will be disapointed if you think a 80.1 rad will give that much better temps than an air cooler.

If you do some modding you can fit a much better rad in your case. for example I cut a large hole in the bottom panel and mobo tray so I could fit 2 200mm rads.

have to agree with Silent on that one. Even though its a new case, its in your best interest to cut space for your rad. 120mm compatible one will yield lower temps and so better performance. A good place to put it is in the roof of your case (usually there is space) or, in the bottom "floor" of your case, if you put your case on stilts you have better air flow.
I've got a chieftec AX aluminium dragon and its got plenty of room in either the floor or roof of my case for a single 120mm rad, can't quite fit a 120.2 one though.
Mounting in the side pannel (motherboard side) and letting the air blow through the case is also an option if you have no enough space

[SilentDeath]

Mines not a 120.2 - its two seperate slightly biggher than 120mm heatercores, taped together so the air travels through both. The fan is big and is capable of pushing the req. air with no niose.

Whatercooling is like a heatpump. Think of the rad as a air heatsink mounted onto the back of a waterblock. This is what a 80.1 rig would be like - however water has a high specific heat, which is a good advantage, you get a sort of buffer where the heat spreads out through the water which in a way make it easyer for the rad (however the rad is more effecient with a larger air-water dT. This is not important though, as colder the water, the larger the dT between cpu and water, giving more effeciency)

[Fatboy]

Cheers for all the input, I am aware that bigger is better in this instance, although I am reluctact to put a new hole in my case unless I have to. The 80.2 rads would do the job nicely in that respect. Also I've got 4 80mm fans on the case at the moment, so even with 120mm fan on the roof, there is still going to be a bit of noise anyhow. It is tempting to take a saw to the top though, there is just soooo much room in the case, and that Orac3 has turned me a nice shade of green, so modding isn't out of the question.....Hmmmm, what to do?!?

[SilentDeath]

My point was not that you should cut a hole for the sake of it. I meant you will not see much if any performance increase over the best air cooling. Well you probably will notice some, but if you were to use an old block aswell, for example OCPC atlantis, air will be better.

Also remember:
Rads are NOT free from restriction. You will get considerably less air flow through a rad than you would on a normal heatsink (slk800 for example).
Fans are much better at pulling air through objects than pushing. Aviod "push pull configuration" that lots of peple think is good. If you want two fans on the same part of the rad, keep them to the same side if possible.

[Fatboy]

Although I would expect the temps to drop a bit (and give a bit more scope for o-clocking) , noise is the real thing I'm gonna be looking at getting rid of, at the moment (granted it is quite warm) my Aero 7 positively howls.

[megah0]

My setup is currently leak testing right next to me, I can't hear it over my desk fan set to its lowest setting

[Firelord]

K, just been looking on overclock.co.uk and come up with the following:

HWLabs Black Ice Micro2 Dual Radiator
Asetek Waterchill CPU Cooler Antarctica
Asetek Waterchill Reservoir (RSV02)
Swiftech MCP600-02 Pump
Tygon Tubing 1/2"OD, 5/8"ID

I've got various other spares at home so that should be covered for £185. Any thoughts, and have I missed anything??

Slight problem here in that you've selected 1/2" ID tubing with 5/8" OD (otherwise you'd have the inside bigger than the outside ) and the Asetek kit is 10mm ID so the tubing won't fit the blocks or the res....

The 80.2 rad just won't cut the mustard it would not cope with an overclocked CPU and you would be getting bad temps. I had a 120.1 and that wasn't good enough to hold decent temps. The 80.2 is really for if you do a Northbridge or perhaps a hard disk.

Do it properly with a 120.1 rad at least becuase then if you want to add a GPU block you can without completely over loading the loop.

Here is a quick setup I just did from the over-clock custom build kit

CPU Block - Choose CPU Block (inc pair of hoseclips): AMD TDX (Reference #476)
GPU Block - Choose GPU Block (inc pair of hoseclips): No GPU Block
Chipset Block - Choose Chipset Block (inc pair of hoseclips): No Chipset Block
Reservoir - Choose Reservoir (inc pair of hoseclips): DangerDen Clear Res (Reference #150)
Pump - Choose Pump (inc pair of hoseclips): DangerDen DD12V-D4 (Reference #1039)
Relay - Choose Relay: No Relay
Radiator - Choose Radiator (inc pair of hoseclips): ThermoChill HE120.1 (Reference #155)
Tubing - Choose Tubing: DangerDen Clearflex Tubing (Reference #360)
Additive - Choose Additive: No Additive
Add UV Dye - Choose UV Dye Color: No Dye
Compound - Choose Compound: No Compound
Selection of Single Fans - Add Single Fan & Guard: 1x YSTech 120mm (Reference #330)
Case - Choose Your Case: No Case Req'd

Total is £193 inc VAT. this would be a damn good setup and produce very good temps if done properly. DD Clearflex tubing is what I use and I prefer it to tygon as its not quite as soft so it holds better.

Cut a 120.1 hole in roof of the case and you'll be laughing!

I had a P4 2.4@3.3 and a 9800 Pro @ 460 core with dual fans on the rad (push-pull) and that got me 35-38c load temps in a coldish room or 40c in a hot room. In the winter I got an idle temp of 25c (this wasn't straight after start up either this was after the PC had been on for several days!) an 80.2 would never be able to do that....

Also get a fan bus for those 80mms and quieten em

EDIT: Grab some Deionised water and either washer fluid or anti freeze from halfords cost bout £7 for 5l of water and 1l of antifreeze instead of using Water Wetter as they do the same thing

[Fatboy]

Cheers for that, I have looked at the custom-kits at over-clock and came up with something similar. If I am going to cut some holes for a radiator, then I may aswell go for something bigger, like a 120.3 - thanks to a mammoth Chieftec case

[megah0]

You could try a car radiator, this is something I have looked into and these tend to have great performance for less money.

[Fatboy]

You could try a car radiator, this is something I have looked into and these tend to have great performance for less money.

But what would be required to get a car radiator sorted connection-wise, and also what sort of dimensions would the radiator be?

[megah0]

Well, hose inlet and outlets range from about 14mm to 30mm plus, if you visit www.thorite.co.uk and click on buy online and navigate to hose connectors they have a wide range of barbs and adaptors that you can use.

As for size they can vary widely from quite dinky to enormous.

Take a look on ebay or go round your local scrap dealer.

[Firelord]

I personally I think that your better just sticking to a 120.2/.3 becuase they are designed with PCs in mind so their easier to mount and if the barbs are properly sealed then the chances of leaking are miniscule.

A car rad could be dented and leak.

Just my 2p anyway

[DRI]

Sorry to butt-in on Fatboy's thread, but does anyone know of any good watercooling tutorials?

[chiyau]

http://www.spodesabode.com/content/article/watercool
http://www.virtual-hideout.net/guide...t1/index.shtml

[SilentDeath]

Look for car heater cores, they cost about £10 used and are more suitable than car radiators (they are about the same size as a 120.2 depending on which you buy. They are in all shapes and sizes).
They shouldnt leak, obviously leak test it before using. If it leaks take it back. You will need to flush all the corrosion from it, as car cooling typically uses a mix of steel and alu. do this by running mains water through it.