USB Hub / KMV Switch

[SilentDeath]

on quakenet? I had a name change to |kbn| .. [edit: because I got banned on a few channels ] (stands for knifed by n00bs - from when I played scoutzknifes on cs.. a long time ago.. cba to type out the full nick ) couldnt think of a better name... but I know i do need better im still on the same channels.. but as ive given up with cs and also trying to get banned constantly I dont read mirc much.. mostly idle while doing other stuff ..

cost for the hub:
Maplin code
FF76 rotary 4PST switch £1 each x2
PN86 USB A Plug 75p each x 5 (made my own cables....)
XR28 15way cable (for usb, they ran out of 9way... have kb and mouse wires insdie the same sheeth for neatness but split it at the end
RN34 Bl00 box £2.97 (looks good but bloody hard to cut the slots in!!!)
JZ47 12mm collet 1/4" knob x2 - for the switches
JZ76 15mm cap black x2 16p - to go on above ^
FW38 rubber feet things... 41p
And also a hub, if you want to use one... you dont have to buy it gives you 3 more sockets than if you just used 2 switches... Mine was a cheap ebuyer £5 usb1.1 version, which was also bl00

Annoyingly maplin doesnt sell USB sockets, only plugs. I decided to use them from USB backplates. In total I used 5. 2 for each pc (= 4) and one for keyboard. The hub, as you can guess, had its own
Instead of spending loads on backplates - if you dont already have loads, I know www.rapidelectronics.co.uk sell them.

The knobs need a 9mm hole for the thread to go through (I forgot originally and done 1/4" as thats the shaft dia.)
I used hot glue to hold all the USB sockets on from backplates.
Hot glue didnt work very well for holding the hubs pcb in as it would move around when inserting devices... [doesnt happen with the seperate sockets that goto pc's] (I threw away the bloo casing... it fitted inside but looks better without it...) so I used the screws + nuts from the usb backplates. The original screws were tooo short for doing this.

This was very easy to do mostly, but cutting out the bl00 box definatly took the longest/most effort. If the walls were not bumped (you can see in the pic) and or kept a thickness below 2mm I could have used my nibber tool (search on rapidelectronics) which would be easy. Instead I had to use a drill to start it. Then I used a 6mm endmill in a cordless drill becuase I was bored[Note this is VERY bad for the safety of your fingers ]. then I gave up and used a hacksaw blade and a file to finnish it off and make it not look so crap.
If you cut it badly (so it looks crap) you can full the gaps with hotglue
IRL it looks a lot worse becuase the bottom and sides are now very scratched from the cutting. I recommend a different box becuase of the extra effort needed for this