CMOS/GPNV checksum error

[Jesus]

Ok i have a tiny problem, evry once in a while my PC shows no intention to boot, since MSI has teh diagnostic LEDs they show me that the machine is stuck ast the early chipset initialization, if it passes this part ist hangs ant Memory detection, so I have to pull the plug ( restarting doesn't help), after that i get the nice error message CMOS/GPNV checksum error WTF??
I cleared the CMOS but it doesn't helps.
SO what to do?
Is that maybe a sign that my MBO is slowly dying?

[Austin]

Could be the mobo but it makes sense to eliminate other things from the equation first. Firstly, set all o/c's back to defaults, always best when troubleshooting, voltages espicially as they can really do some harm. You may wish to try the latest BIOS followed by another clear (some pop the battery out for 2 mins) then reseting back to BIOS defaults. Ensure all cards (PCI, AGP, RAM etc) and cables are firmly attached, perhaps re-attach them or try running with just the essentials. If possible try each component in a known working PC. The problem part is likely to be one or more of; mobo, CPU, RAM, PSU or on the outside gfx card.

If your CPU is TbredA then it may simply be too much at 1.825mhz, the TbredB has an extra layer which is why they clock so much higher. Another thing to consider is FSB speed ... is it FSB or multiplier you're using to o/c? SiS745 was designed for 266FSB (2x133), some components really dislike o/c'ing and o/c'ing has always been a big weakpoint of SiS chipsets, you are certainly likely to come into problems going above 288FSB (2x144) as the PCI, AGP, RAM and IDE are all running pretty far out of spec. Your PC2100 is also designed for 266FSB operation and may not like going higher even with slow timings. Finally your 9500PRO SHOULD be happy with that o/c, it shouldn't kick in until Windows anyway but set it back to default just to help eliminate it. Did you severely stress test your system before settling for those o/c's?

[Jesus]

The FSB is 147. Well the problem is that that error message appears after I have disconected the machine.
After that the BIOS returns to default settings ( 100FSB).
I have run the system at 100% for some 6-8 hours, so now its 100% stable the CPU is at 1,725Vcore.
CPU/DRAM timing is set to 4:3 so it runs at 218MHz, the Mem timing is at Turbo. So the solution for this problem could be
Buying a new MBO ( on my to do list anyway)
TbredB CPU or Barton ( I'm more into TBredB its cheaper)
Memory is by Infineon and Nanya ( is nanya a good brand?)
Well I have the latest BIOS ( at least MSI Liveupdate2 says so).

I can't set the multiplier higher than 12,5. Well the System worked at 150FSB but not totaly stable.

[Austin]

147FSB (294 inc DDR) is pushing it a bit far really, the mobo uses a 1/4 PCI divider as that is perfect for the 133/266FSB it was designed for. At 147/294FSB your PCI is running at 37mhz (rec'd max is 36), AGP = 74mhz, AGP4x mode = 296mhz (rec'd max 72 & 288), RAM if synced is running 294mhz (PC2100 is designed for 266mhz), RAM if 4:3 = 392mhz, RAM if 5:4 = 368mhz and as for the IDE that varies on implimentation, VIA are picky but SiS should be better, though you may be pushing that a bit far too. Your vcore is a little high, Tbred CPUs are designed with a 1.65v max in design but up to 1.70v should be okay if the extra speed you get from it warrants the extra stress and heat put on the CPU. However you should find you get around 1.7-1.8ghz with only 1.50-1.55v. BTW the rec'd maxes are dependent upon specifics, with the right parts you can go higher, with other parts you'll be even more limited.

So basically there's rather a lot running out of spec on your PC ... and some parts may have been damaged enough to never run stable again. Regarding the RAM, turbo settings will be too agressive esp if you plan to exceed the 266mhz it is rated for. The other BIG thing is that SiS' async RAM implimentation is laughable, you actually decrease perf by running the RAM faster than the FSB, ALWAYS leave it in sync ... you are esp prone to problems if you o/c the FSB as the ratios to run the RAM faster are designed only for stock 266FSB (on 266FSB mobos).

Infineon and Nanya are more likely chips than an actual RAM company, most likely generic I THINK. In any case you'd be doing well getting top notch (Corsair, TwinMOS) PC2100 running at 333mhz let alone faster.

I'd rec you return to stock speeds (and voltages) for a while and see how you get on. If you get instability try putting good parts in there or your parts in another PC (one at a time) to try to ascertain the cause(s). Considering prices it would make sense to upgrade ...

[Austin]

For an idea of pricing, www.dabs.com

£28 Duron 1.4ghz
£40 AthlonXP TbredB (search for how to guarantee TbredB)
£79 AthlonXP2500+ Barton (< £70 if you shop around)
£15 Volcano 11+ (adjustable HSF)
£40 DabsValue (Biostar) nForce2 Single Channel (5% slower than Dual Channel, still VERY fast and should be very o/c'able. Ensure you get Soundstorm or MCP-T for great onboard sound)

All 3 of the CPUs mentioned should o/c to around 2.1 - 2.3ghz (TbredB XP3000+ to Barton XP3200+), the Durons are still a little unknown and some may use the TbredA core (but with 64K vs 256K L2), could be a bit of a gamble but a cheap one. In terms of perf (at the same clock speed) the Duron is about 10% slower than the Tbreds while the Barton is about 5% faster than the Tbreds. You could use your current RAM and CPU to help keep the costs down, you shoudl still get decent cash for your current kit too. Dabs don't guarantee TbredB and are pricey for Barton and RAM ... mobo seems great value though. For the RAM definitely get PC3200 (DDR400=400mhz) I'd rec either Adata or TwinMOS, try www.cpucity.co.uk or www.komplett.co.uk, otherwise direct from www.crucial.com/uk (free P&P) 256MB (£35) is not that limiting at all, 512MB (£70) is pretty ideal.

For around £100 you could upgrade to a CPU running around 2.2ghz, very good HSF, 400FSB, 256MB DDR400-PC3200 and an nForce2 based mobo. For gaming you'll want a good gfx card, easily the top picks at the mo are GF4TI4200 £70ish and Radeon9600PRO £130ish.

[Jesus]

The Ram is running at 218Mhz, according to my BIOS, i've lowered the Vcore to 1,7 and it runs just fine the temps are 43 idle 49-50load!HSF is a Coolermaster Db5 ( although this runs at 4500rpm, not at 5400 as it should if it is a db5).
Why video card? I think that my 9500pro is more than enough!!
Even with everythng at default and the problem persists!!!Especcilaly if I force a shut down!
Well 100pounds is a lot of money for the croatian living standard!!
The machine makes no intetion to boot with Auto Voltage!!Well teh MBo is going to be replaced, and then well se just how far this CPU wnats to go, 1849 sure temp normal!!
Well mbm5 says the Voltage is 1,63 thats even below the default voltage, could all the problems come from this crappy PSU?
If I set the Vcore to 1,7 than it should be in Windows 1,7 am I right?( Sorry bout the stupid question)

[Austin]

9500PRO's rock! Better than the 9600PRO and o/c to 9700nonPRO 3D speed too, 8 piped goodness! RAM at 218mhz (436mhz) is not good for PC2100, all instability could come from that alone, in SIS always run equal to the FSB speed otherwise you will run SLOWER. At 266FSB (2x133) your RAM should run at 133/266mhz and o/c'ed to 147/294FSB the RAM should be at 147/294mhz (just under the PC2700 spec). Look for 1:1, 3:3, auto, by SPD, disable FSB+33 etc. If o/c'ing above the rated speed it's best to choose the std/slow (high) timings rather than fast/turbo.

If your CPU is TbredB it will have a stepping code on it like AIUHB, ending in A denotes TbredA which tends to max out around 1.9ghz instead of the TbredB's 2.3ghz. You can also check the family, model, stepping info with CPUID or by typing SET at the DOS/CMD prompt as 6-8-0 is TbredA while 6-8-1 is TbredB.

MBM5 is not good for accurate temps, be sure what it reports matches up closely in the BIOS which is still only approximate but the most accurate. PSU may very well be the best place to start, brand is more vital than Wattage, Antec or Enermax are ideal but generally cheaper (but still good) are Sparkle, ToPower, CTW, S.Flower, ThermalTake and TTGI. 350W should do if a decent brand, otherwise 400W is definitely wise. You are never likely to get the precise voltage you select but it should be very close, 1.63v instead of 1.70v is a big diff esp if it rises and falls a lot ... and even more worrying if that's at idle.

[Jesus]

The temps in BIOS and in mbm are the same. The voltages vary and in BIOS it rasies and falls a lot from1,6-1,68.
What bout a Chieftech PSU?Enermax is a bit expensive.
I now that the CPU is a TbredA.
The 12V shows a voltage of 11,88 everything in idle!

[Austin]

Voltages should be close to their spec, a deviation of 5% each way is within allowance. Chieftech should be good, certainly a lot better than some unknown PSU. Check out CTW @ Scan as they're reportedly rebadged Antec which is the top brand, pretty cheap too from what I hear. A 350W one of those would easily do. Recent roundup at AnAnd said Fortron and Zalman were top notch and cheaper than most good brands. A new PSU may not solve your problems but it is a very wise investment, protect your kit!