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Thread: New brake pads

  1. #1
    Senior Member Shad's Avatar
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    New brake pads

    Changed my obliterated OEM Bosch front brake pads last night to a set of new Ferodo DS2500 'fast road/track day' pads.

    Anyway I went out to bed them in. Did about 15, 50% applications over 3-4 seconds from 90mph to about 40. Then thought I'd try stopping from 80-0 for a set of lights.

    Rolled up to the lights and a cloud of dust rose from the wheels. "hmm" I thought. Then I noticed the smell... and oh my god my brakes are on fire! I had 2 plumes of black smoke coming from the wheel arches! It's a good thing the lights changed, managed to pull away and drive gently until they'd cooled down a bit.

    Anyway, carried on doing the gradual braking and now they seem ok. Only marginally better than the old pads though I have to say, but my pedal is still spongy so I think my brake fluid has had it and/or needs bleeding.

    Anyone bled brake before? I've heard it's a pain in the arse to do
    Simon


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    Senior Member Russ's Avatar
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    will goodridge braded hoses affect your warranty? if not thats a decent place to start next.

    how much you pay for them pads?

  3. #3
    TiG
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    I had my break fluid changed at the 2year service about 4 months ago shad, it made the world of difference to me, couldn't believe how much sharper the breaks felt it was ace. Couldn't tell you how to do it yourself tho as i don't even know where to start on my octavia. Things just look far too difficult to get to now.

    Where as my old astra and fiesta i'd know where to do it.

    TiG
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    Oh no!I've re-dorkalated! Jiff Lemon's Avatar
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    That alfa of yours got ABS? If not then bleeding brake fluid is not too bad a job to do, but definately a two man job (DON'T bother with 1-man kits, more trouble than they're worth).
    You will need: 1 Milk bottle, 2 litres of good quality DOT4 or DOT5 Brake fluid, 1 clear plastic tube, wire brush, WD40 (or similar), 7,8 or 10mm spanner, Axle stands and jack, 1 patient friend.

    1) Start in the opposite corner from your master cylinder - This is where you put the brake fluid under the bonnet, so if its on the drivers side, start at the passenger side rear wheel. Jack car, (optionally remove wheel - gives a little more access), Place car on axle stand.

    2) Find the bleed nipple (Stop that sniggering in the back), use the wire brush to remove any crap and rust from around it, then douse liberally in wd40.

    3) Have patient friend make coffee, whilst wd40 works it magic.

    4) place spanner on bleed nipple - make sure it's a tight fit, and where possible, use the ring end of the spanner, not the open end. Offer up a quick prayer to the diety of your choice, and give the spanner a short sharp whack to loosen the bleed nipple.

    5) if you prayers where answered, the nipple will now be free - if it's snapped or rounded, make sure its not wheeping fluid, the wheels back on, and limp to the garage of your choice and expect a big bill.

    6) place your bleed pipe over the top of the nipple, fill the milk bottle with a little fluid and run the pipe into it.

    7) team work time. Nip the nipple up, have friend apply pressure to the pedal - it's not going to move. Now, you gently undone the nipple, you friend will notice the pedal his still holding pressure on, will sink slowly - this is good. You will (typically) notice brown sludge coming out of your brakes and down the tube. Your friend should warn you as the pedal is about to reach the floor. Before it does, you nip the nipple back up, which restores pressure to the pedal. Start all over again. You keep bleeding the brakes until you get clear fluid (and no bubbles) coming down the pipe.

    8) IMPORTANT NOTE#1. Remember to keep an eye on the master cylinder level, usually you can get 5 or 6 pumps before you you'll need to top it up.

    9) IMPORTANT NOTE#2. These are you brakes - the second most important thing on your car. If in doubt, get a good garage to do the work for you.

    10) Proceed to do the rest of the wheels. Next wheel in sequence is the other rear, then the front wheel furthest from the master cylinder, the wheel nearest the master cylinder.

    If it's got ABS, get it to a garage and watch em like a hawk.
    Will it make a difference? Depends on the age of the car. Brake fluid should be changed every 2 years, as it absorbs water.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Shad's Avatar
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    Thanks guys. It does have ABS and there's the added time/effort of rear discs to bleed as well. To my knowledge, the brake fluid hasn't ever been changed and the car is now just over 2 years old.

    I think I'll get a quote from my Alfa specialist for a complete drain and refill with DOT5.1 (DOT5 and ABS seals do not mix well I'm told!).

    I've asked about hoses in the past but apparently they're a nightmare to fit on my brakes and aren't really worth it.
    Simon


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    Va Va Voom Lowe's Avatar
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    Dude, you don't run in new brake pads like that!

  7. #7
    'ave it. Skii's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lowe
    Dude, you don't run in new brake pads like that!
    I was kind of thinking the same thing...

    Shad - did you buy your car new ? Only I've had mine from new 3 years and the brake pads are doing a-ok still !

  8. #8
    Va Va Voom Lowe's Avatar
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    Hat to say it but the brake pads will probably be dead now as well. With the extreme heat you've subjected them too they'll of no doubt glazed over which ruins them.

    I'd get another set of pads on and then run them in GENTLEY!

  9. #9
    Now with added sobriety Rave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lowe
    Hat to say it but the brake pads will probably be dead now as well. With the extreme heat you've subjected them too they'll of no doubt glazed over which ruins them.

    I'd get another set of pads on and then run them in GENTLEY!
    He could sandpaper the pads if they've glazed surely?

    How do you run brake pads in properly just out of interest?

    Rich :¬)

  10. #10
    TiG
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    how do you run in any mechanical equipment?, how do you run in a new engine?, i'd say the same as Lowe, gently building up pressure, sure get an emergency stop from 30 to warm them up but that sounds like Shad has been pushing them too hard too soon.

    I'd say its worthwhile getting them checked out as Jiff's most important point is that Breaks are there to keep you safe, if they aren't working 100% you could find yourself in a rather nasty accident if you need them....

    TiG
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  11. #11
    Senior Member Shad's Avatar
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    Actually, I've run them in exactly as described on the Ferodo leaflet that comes with the pads. Bare in mind these pads are designed for racing primarily, but they can be used for road because they only take 2-3 applications to get up to temprature.

    Skii: My car gets used. Hard. I've obliterated half the pad material in 4k miles.
    Simon


  12. #12
    Bonnet mounted gunsight megah0's Avatar
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    Hmmmm slightly OT i know but IIRC there was a garage in my local town that were shut down and severly fined for selling brakepads composed of compressed grass.

    /car horror story
    Recycling consultant

  13. #13
    'ave it. Skii's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shad
    Skii: My car gets used. Hard. I've obliterated half the pad material in 4k miles.


    Thats incredible - jeez I must drive like a pensioner in comparison

  14. #14
    Now with added sobriety Rave's Avatar
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    I have no idea how my pads were when I got my car but 10k miles later they're still fine. I don't drive like a pensioner- I just don't slow down for corners.

    Rich :¬)

  15. #15
    XTR
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    you nutter shad!!! blakc smoke doesnt sound good....


    mines due for new pads.... and i only changed them in January..........

    Probably get some new discs at the same time...... Green stuff pads and some grooved discs... anything to try and cut down on brake dust... i hate cleaning OZ SuperT's.......



    *Disclaimer* - The contents of this message are not necessarily my own opinions,thoughts or views... they may belong to the voices in my head!

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    Капраз dkmech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by XTR
    Green stuff pads and some grooved discs... anything to try and cut down on brake dust...
    That the compressed grass ones?
    Tough on mirrors, tough on the causes of mirrors.

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