DDY's 3D Printer Adventure

[DDY]

Why on earth didn't you just swap them out with MR16 LEDs and a couple of transformers? Easier AND better.

In this house, each MR16 bulb had its own transformer. The existing ceiling down light fittings were retained, so all I did was simply pull out the old transformers, along with the MR16 holder and substitute that with a GU10 holder.

Unless I'm missing something, this would be the easiest and cheapest approach?

[DR]

This thread is so awesome - DDY thanks for sharing all of this.

[DDY]

Thanks for all the comments, it has been fun sharing

Update post!

I've finished the design for the USB power bank case, I'll be printing this later.




For a more "tangible" update, here's a quick and dirty quick release plate for my tripod.







Now, where did I leave that half inch 1/4" UNC bolt

[Jonj1611]

Fantastic thread, have enjoyed reading it, must be nice to just be able to print something you might need, probably one of those every now and again situations but definitely more handy than trying to find a shop selling bits and pieces.

[peterb]

Fantastic thread, have enjoyed reading it, must be nice to just be able to print something you might need, probably one of those every now and again situations but definitely more handy than trying to find a shop selling bits and pieces.

As he says - this is one of those really good "How I did it" threads - and actually better than a you tube demo because of the descriptions on overcoming problems! Excellent!

[finlay666]

I'm going to upgrade a USB power bank, from 5000mAH to 9600mAH by replacing the existing cells - which are somewhat worn, with four new 2400mAH 18650 cells for a total of 9600mAH. I could use higher capacity cells but 2400mAH ones are really cheap.

Nice, don't forget to put some air holes in incase the batteries decide to vent!

Not to put a downer on the thread but those ultrafire's won't be 2400mah, as a rule of thumb any battery with "fire" in the name doesn't achieve close to the stated mah, probably closer to 1800mah per battery if you're lucky

If you want decent ones let me know, there is a guy on ebay who is extremely honest about what he sells and what advertised/actual mah are

(been using 18650's and 18350's in e-cig mods for a bit now so read up a lot on the advertised/real mah, max continuous output and different battery chemistry)

Looks cool though, might have to see if I can get some designs put together if you'd be willing to print some bits out for some booze tokens

[DDY]

I too am very doubtful that the cells are 2400mAH, they're actually significantly lighter than the 2500mAH Trustfire cells I have - which as you've said are a bit dodgy to begin with.

I'm reasonably versed on the subject of rechargeable lithium batteries and already own a fair number of 18650 cells, including the reputed Panasonic 3400mAH NCR18650B which are my favourite, but no four which are 'matched', i.e. of the same batch, age and wear level - essential for unprotected Li-ions in parallel.

I'm using the four Ultrafires as guinea pigs, I don't know how well the bodged power bank is going to work out but at £1.20 per cell there isn't much to lose.

I might be able to print a few things on request but it will depend on the item of course. As prints typically take a few hours I will be limited on the things I can print due to time constraints.

[finlay666]

Fair play on the ultrafires, it's a good cheap way to test it first

Didn't realise that printing took so long, might have to accidentally purchase one myself in that case

[DR]

When are you going to design something which is very uhm HEXUS? Surely that's inspiration ?

[wasabi]

In this house, each MR16 bulb had its own transformer. The existing ceiling down light fittings were retained, so all I did was simply pull out the old transformers, along with the MR16 holder and substitute that with a GU10 holder.

Unless I'm missing something, this would be the easiest and cheapest approach?

LED GU10s fail with shocking regularity compared to LED MR16s. You could have just changed the MR16 transformers to LED versions and had a much better result IMO.

[DDY]

When are you going to design something which is very uhm HEXUS? Surely that's inspiration ?

There is something waiting in the print queue

LED GU10s fail with shocking regularity compared to LED MR16s. You could have just changed the MR16 transformers to LED versions and had a much better result IMO.

"Much" better result, how? In the quality of the light? Cost? Ease of installation? In my own trials, the GU10 approach won or tied with the MR16.

I trailed a few MR16 bulbs, even side by side with the manufactures own GU10 equivalents I couldn't see any difference at all.

Going the MR16 route and replacing all the transformers would have easily doubled the initial cost, even if I had to replace my GU10 LEDs twice as often as the MR16 LEDs I'd still have change left over!

Still, there's the three year warranty to fall back on.

Back on topic.

3D printing will be on hold while I carry out minor 3D printer improvements works. Basically, the 3D printer has 3D printed some 3D printer parts, which later will be used to upgrade the 3D printer, improving the quality of its 3D prints.

More info to follow.

[Jonj1611]

I wanted to ask, have you used much of the plastic filament? Just wondered what type of usage you get out of a reel.

[wasabi]

"Much" better result, how? In the quality of the light? Cost? Ease of installation? In my own trials, the GU10 approach won or tied with the MR16.

i have a LOT of LED lights in the house. Probably would have been cheaper to run halogen...

Been using GU10 LEDs for about 3 years then stopped. Primarily due to failure rate.

I've used everything from cheap Chinese to Cree GU10s and they've all failed due to rubbish transformers.Invariably if I slapped a 12v power source direct against the LEDs they still work.

MR16s have separate transformer so fewer heat-in-small-space issues. If you bought some of the new transformerless type GU10s I'd love to hear a long term usage report though.

Plus you could have used a single transformer to feed your old loop of MR16s, just taking out the old individual transformers or swapping them for £5/each 5w LED versions if preferred.

[mikerr]

I was using a 25W soldering iron to clean up 3d prints, or weld 2 together which worked ok,
but the iron was really too hot as it wasn't temperature controlled.
That meant the tip would be anything up to 450C which will cause the plastic to burn and smell if you weren't quick enough, or or the plastic remaining on the tip

Temperature controlled soldering iron are quite expensive at £50+,
so I bought this cheap £10 soldering iron from ebay which can be set down to 200C - the melting temp you print at
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1410182506...84.m1439.l2649

Arrived and it works great!

[ntwrkguru]

DDY... I too have an 8200 and am facing many of the same issues as you. Would you mind sharing your final Slic3r configs? I still cannot get the first layer to print decent. You mentioned the nozzle adjustment...did you mean up or down?

Many thanks in advance for any assistance!

[j1979]

To the OP, thanks for the thread. do you have any experience of DIY CNC router kits?