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Thread: My PC needs to warm up!

  1. #1
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    My PC needs to warm up!

    This has been bothering me since it first started. Which was immediately after I built the thing.

    Firstly, specs that matter
    PSU: Seasonic S12 500W (which has been replaced)
    Mobo: DFI Lanparty NF4 Ultra, modded to SLI
    Graphics Card: XFX 6800GT

    Basically, when the comp is first turned on, it does not boot. I here a long bleep, the comp starts to boot up (as far as I can tell from the noise) but there is no output to the monitor.

    I leave it like this for 15mins or so, come back, hit the restart button, then it boots up normally.

    Anything I can, I don't mind replacing either the Mobo or GPU, just want to make sure I replace the right thing. I don't know anyone with a PCI-E Graphics Card tho, so can't test.

  2. #2
    Metier9
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    Random guess: power connector to the MB is buggered or where it slots in.. (12 pin or 16 pin... case too far away...)

  3. #3
    Senior Member this_is_gav's Avatar
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    • this_is_gav's system
      • Motherboard:
      • DFI DK X58-T3eH6
      • CPU:
      • Intel i7 920
      • Memory:
      • 12GB Corsair 1333MHz C9
      • Storage:
      • 2xRaptor 150GB (RAID0 300GB), 2.5TB permanent storage
      • Graphics card(s):
      • Nvidia GTX 560 Ti 1GB
      • PSU:
      • Seasonic X-series
      • Case:
      • Lian-Li A70B
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 7 x64
      • Monitor(s):
      • Dell 2408WFP
      • Internet:
      • 8M ADSL24
    Fairly sure it'll be the motherboard. Aside from the PSU itself (which you've replaced, so we can presumably rule that out), the motherboard would be the next thing in line and as all sorts of power regulation tasks to perform.

    Of course, it could be a minor incompatibility between the PSU and motherboard, but you'd have to read up to see if others are having similar issues with the same brands or even models.

    * I am not to be held responsible if you buy a shiny new motherboard on account of this post, the problem remains, and you end up swapping everything else out, finding that in the end it was a great aunt putting a curse on you. Or something.

  4. #4
    DILLIGAF GoNz0's Avatar
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    • GoNz0's system
      • Motherboard:
      • Asus Rampage V Extreme
      • CPU:
      • i7 something X99 based
      • Memory:
      • 16gb GSkill
      • Storage:
      • 4 SSD's + WD Red
      • Graphics card(s):
      • GTX980 Strix WC
      • PSU:
      • Enermax Galaxy 1250 (9 years and counting)
      • Case:
      • Corsair 900D
      • Operating System:
      • win10 64bit
      • Monitor(s):
      • Dell 24"
      • Internet:
      • 220mb Cable
    take everything off the board apart from CPU and RAM, see if u get error beeps instead of the long one. if so add the video card and repeat the test. if it works now then its another piece of hardware, keep adding and switching on until you get the long beep again.

    of course if it does it with CPU and RAM then remove the ram and see if you get short beeps, if your left with CPU and motherboard, then chance is the boards faulty.

    also consider a BIOS update.

  5. #5
    Lover & Fighter Blitzen's Avatar
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    • Blitzen's system
      • Motherboard:
      • ABIT iX38 QuadGT
      • CPU:
      • Intel Quad Q6600 @ 3.6Ghz : 30 Degrees Idle - 41-46 Degrees Load
      • Memory:
      • 4 x 1GB OCZ Platinum PC6400 @ 4-4-4-12
      • Storage:
      • 2 x 500GB Samsung Spinpoints - RAID 0
      • Graphics card(s):
      • GTX 285
      • PSU:
      • Enermax MODU 82+ 625W
      • Case:
      • Antec Nine Hundred
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 7 Ultimate 64Bit
      • Monitor(s):
      • Viewsonic Q22wb 22" Widescreen - 5ms
      • Internet:
      • O2 premium @ 17mb
    DFI boards are extremely fussy about PSU's.

    The only certain ones they like are the OCZ's believe it or not.

  6. #6
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    • amjedm's system
      • Motherboard:
      • Asus A8N-Sli Premium
      • CPU:
      • Athlon X2 4200 S939 + Scythe Ninja rev A
      • Memory:
      • 2GB Corsair DDR PC3200
      • Storage:
      • Samsung T 160GB Sata in Scythe Quiet Box
      • Graphics card(s):
      • Nvidia 6600 256MB + Cooling Mod
      • PSU:
      • Enermax Noisetaker 485 (fanless) - lower chamber P180 fan doing the PSU cooling
      • Case:
      • P180 (modded - easier cable routing, front and rear grills cut)
      • Operating System:
      • XP Pro
      • Monitor(s):
      • LG 22" WTQ?
      • Internet:
      • O2 8MB (Standard)
    Quote Originally Posted by Blitzen View Post
    DFI boards are extremely fussy about PSU's.

    The only certain ones they like are the OCZ's believe it or not.
    Yep, there were issues with Seasonic and DFI. I think Seasonic closed the case without resolving IIRC.

  7. #7
    Flat cap, Whippets, Cave. Clunk's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by amjedm View Post
    Yep, there were issues with Seasonic and DFI. I think Seasonic closed the case without resolving IIRC.
    I think DFI did as well, just like they did with a few other issues.

  8. #8
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    • amjedm's system
      • Motherboard:
      • Asus A8N-Sli Premium
      • CPU:
      • Athlon X2 4200 S939 + Scythe Ninja rev A
      • Memory:
      • 2GB Corsair DDR PC3200
      • Storage:
      • Samsung T 160GB Sata in Scythe Quiet Box
      • Graphics card(s):
      • Nvidia 6600 256MB + Cooling Mod
      • PSU:
      • Enermax Noisetaker 485 (fanless) - lower chamber P180 fan doing the PSU cooling
      • Case:
      • P180 (modded - easier cable routing, front and rear grills cut)
      • Operating System:
      • XP Pro
      • Monitor(s):
      • LG 22" WTQ?
      • Internet:
      • O2 8MB (Standard)
    Quote Originally Posted by Clunk View Post
    I think DFI did as well, just like they did with a few other issues.
    Thanks as I thought Seasonic were the bad boys.

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the suggestions guys, I'll have a play tonight testing it all. I don't think its a PSU incompatibility problem. After Seasonic replaced the PSU and I still had the problem, they sent me another one, which they had taken out and modified to make sure it would be compatible. Still had the problem tho

    If it is a faulty GPU why does it work after it had had time to warm up? In quite literal sense the comp starts up much easier if my room is warm.

  10. #10
    Late Night Ninja! CrazyMonkey's Avatar
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    • CrazyMonkey's system
      • Motherboard:
      • Asus M4N98TD Evo
      • CPU:
      • Phenom II X6 1055T @ 4.1ghz
      • Memory:
      • 8GB DDR3 Dominator @ 1700mhz
      • Storage:
      • 120GB OCZ Vertex 2E - 1TB Hitatchi
      • Graphics card(s):
      • 2x 460 1GB
      • PSU:
      • 850W
      • Case:
      • Silverstone Fortress FT02R-WRI Ltd.Edition
      • Operating System:
      • Win 7, XP, Server2008 RC1, Gentoo
      • Monitor(s):
      • 24" Acer LED - 22" Belinea - 19" Samsung - 19" IIyama
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    Sounds like a Motherboard, my friend is running a DFI and a Corsair which is made by Seasonic?

  11. #11
    Lover & Fighter Blitzen's Avatar
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    • Blitzen's system
      • Motherboard:
      • ABIT iX38 QuadGT
      • CPU:
      • Intel Quad Q6600 @ 3.6Ghz : 30 Degrees Idle - 41-46 Degrees Load
      • Memory:
      • 4 x 1GB OCZ Platinum PC6400 @ 4-4-4-12
      • Storage:
      • 2 x 500GB Samsung Spinpoints - RAID 0
      • Graphics card(s):
      • GTX 285
      • PSU:
      • Enermax MODU 82+ 625W
      • Case:
      • Antec Nine Hundred
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 7 Ultimate 64Bit
      • Monitor(s):
      • Viewsonic Q22wb 22" Widescreen - 5ms
      • Internet:
      • O2 premium @ 17mb
    Quote Originally Posted by CrazyMonkey View Post
    Sounds like a Motherboard, my friend is running a DFI and a Corsair which is made by Seasonic?

    I would still have money on it that its the DFI board compatibility with the PSU.

    DFI boards may be good but they are really fussy about their power.

  12. #12
    Metier9
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    In a weird way my random guess was correct Although it did sound similar to when i was having power problems at one point.

    Yer, ive heard corsair PSUs are made by seasonic as well

  13. #13
    Senior Member kalniel's Avatar
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    • kalniel's system
      • Motherboard:
      • Gigabyte X58A UD3R rev 2
      • CPU:
      • Intel Xeon X5680
      • Memory:
      • 12gb DDR3 2000
      • Graphics card(s):
      • nVidia GTX 1060 6GB
      • PSU:
      • Seasonic 600W
      • Case:
      • Cooler Master HAF 912
      • Operating System:
      • Win 10 Pro x64
      • Monitor(s):
      • Dell U2311H
      • Internet:
      • O2 8mbps
    Quote Originally Posted by whitebloodcell View Post
    Mobo: DFI Lanparty NF4 Ultra, modded to SLI
    Did this jump out to anyone else either?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by kalniel View Post
    Did this jump out to anyone else either?
    Thats been possible for a long time. A BIOS flash and a resistor tweak can do it
    Last edited by s_kinton; 26-02-2007 at 02:16 PM.

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    another thing that may cause issues are drive detection. What Hard drives, cd/dvd drives have you. Also usb pen drives etc., have even seen multifunction devices printer/scanner screw boot up/ slow down detection. Set ide devices to specific slave /master jumpering dob't rely on c-sel(cable select)

    will also help to disable in bios any unused ide/sata ports.

    luck

  16. #16
    Senior Member kalniel's Avatar
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    • kalniel's system
      • Motherboard:
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      • CPU:
      • Intel Xeon X5680
      • Memory:
      • 12gb DDR3 2000
      • Graphics card(s):
      • nVidia GTX 1060 6GB
      • PSU:
      • Seasonic 600W
      • Case:
      • Cooler Master HAF 912
      • Operating System:
      • Win 10 Pro x64
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      • Dell U2311H
      • Internet:
      • O2 8mbps
    Quote Originally Posted by kalniel View Post
    Did this jump out to anyone else either?
    Quote Originally Posted by s_kinton View Post
    Thats been possible for a long time. A BIOS flash and a resistor tweak can do it
    Obviously it didn't...

    I know what the mod is.. but does no-one else connect up a BIOS flash and resistor tweak and the fact that he's having cold boot problems?

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