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About LinkBacksThe bag isn't for no messy fingers, it's for not getting skin oils all over the TIM and causing a barrier between the TIM and your heatsink. But even bags aren't very good for even TIM distribution.Originally Posted by s3ds
The bag isn't for no messy fingers, it's for not getting skin oils all over the TIM and causing a barrier between the TIM and your heatsink. But even bags aren't very good for even TIM distribution.
ok point taken ill never use my finger again , would you remove the pads from a retail fan or would you leave it ?
They tend to be the first thing to go for me, I just use a creditcard like piece of plastic for that, and my little plastic stick for spreading of the TIM.
I personally use a bag (like sandwich bag)...
I first clean the surfaces with a HS cleaner.. then I apply a small amount to the heatsink first... which I then buff off with a kleenex. Basically you want the fine metal particles of AS5 to sit in the grooves and tiny crevices on the surface of the heatsink but not cover it up, so buff away hehe.
Once thats done... I apply a half rice grain sized blob to the centre of the CPU.
Then with my finger through the corner of a sandwich bag for protection, I smear it all over the CPU surface into a thin (almost transparent) layer.
I find that keeping your AS5 in the fridge makes it spread easier.
You do not want a thick layer of compound... you want it real thin to maximise metal to metal contact.
The thermal compound is not supposed to be a barrier between the chip and HS... It is merely there to fill in the minute gaps that appear on the surfaces and maximise surface area contact.
From personal experience, this gives me far superior results to all other methods that I have tried to date on all the builds I have done.
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I dont know if the dye used in meths is a good idea....
Surfaces for AS5 should apparently be prepared with high quality isopropyl alcohol..
petroleum or citrus based oil cleaners are not advised as the oils they contain will sink into the tiny pores of the metal surface and reduce the effectiveness of the compound.
Also... i saw someone reccomending Akasa HS cleaner... as far as I know, thats a citrus based cleaner.
I've used brandy or whisky in the past, but would think the AS is already in the pores of the metal before you start wiping it off, to replace with a fresh dollop. And I doubt that most people would scrub the surface clean.
Last edited by excalibur2; 25-10-2007 at 05:39 PM.
2nd computer gigabyte P965ds3p, 7770 E2140@2.9ghz, corsair HX520 6 years stable, replaced now with E8400@3.9ghz and will overclock more when I'm bored.
Just to add some more thoughts I use artic cooling MX1 and have tried both methods.
Current system AMD x2 5000 black edition at 3.1 Ghz @ 1.375 v with a freezer 64.
Spread thinly resulted in my system restarting as the cpu over heated.
Blob in the middle and a twist of the heatsink as shown on the artic cooling website and now at 46 degrees at 100% cpu with dual prime 95.
So I think it also depends on the tim you use.
Woahhhhhh, that's sounds like the HSF wasn't seated correctly
A CPU at stock should never overheat, just run warmer; even with no TIM as long as there is a heatsink on it.
ive always used the finger in bag method!
PSN ID = leeglf
For removing TIM use Acetone - 50ml bottle for around 99p from chemists. Cheaper on ebay but you'll get a bigger bottle.
I use Ceramique/MX1 (not together though) and I believe with those you have to put a blob on. I thought only Acrtic Silver had to be spread?
I can't believe half a grain of rice size paste can be spread over a IHS or core - please can someone post pics (sometime ago I do remember looking at the Arctic Silver site but still couldn't believe it).
If you are going to use acetone then be careful with it because it will dissolve alot of plastics (and you won't find out which ones until you've spilt it on your mobo/cpu etc)
I would recommend isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol, IPA) because this will not attack plastic. Available here, more than you will ever need. I'm sure other places like fleabay do it too. Be careful though, it is flammable!
"Reality is what it is, not what you want it to be." Frank Zappa. ----------- "The invisible and the non-existent look very much alike." Huang Po.----------- "A drowsy line of wasted time bathes my open mind", - Ride.
Yes, you've got to be careful with Acetone as it states on the bottle "attacks plastics".
With regards Isopropyl Alcohol, I've never used it to remove TIM as I thought it wouldn't remove it! I do use it to clean the heatsink/cpu core, once I've removed the TIM with Acetone.
You can get isopropanol in a large can from Maplin as well. A few quid. Removes thermal compound very nicely.
I had a job removing some TIM from the heatpipe cooler of a Asus A8N SLI Premium.
Acetone and Isopropyl Alcohol couldn't remove the TIM so I ended up scraping off the top layer and then using Acetone to do the rest.
Would Akasa TIM have removed the paste (without having to scrape the top layer)?
I applied MX1 and fortunately (thank God) the MB temps are down by 5c 'ish. Used to be the MB temps were higher than the passive Ninja temps.
I've often found that the stuff the manufacturers use on graphics cards, chipset coolers etc is rock hard (and often poorly applied) so I tend do scrape it of with a very small sharp knife (scalpel) or a pencil sharpener blade aswell. Then finish with IPA.
I've not come across a safe solvent that will get rid of the manufacturers crap. Nowadays I remove heatsinks and put my own thermal paste on asap.
"Reality is what it is, not what you want it to be." Frank Zappa. ----------- "The invisible and the non-existent look very much alike." Huang Po.----------- "A drowsy line of wasted time bathes my open mind", - Ride.
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