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Thread: Professional solderer for motherboard

  1. #33
    bored out of my tiny mind malfunction's Avatar
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    • malfunction's system
      • Motherboard:
      • Gigabyte G1.Sniper (with daft heatsinks and annoying Killer NIC)
      • CPU:
      • Xeon X5670 (6 core LGA 1366) @ 4.4GHz
      • Memory:
      • 48GB DDR3 1600 (6 * 8GB)
      • Storage:
      • 1TB 840 Evo + 1TB 850 Evo
      • Graphics card(s):
      • 290X
      • PSU:
      • Antec True Power New 750W
      • Case:
      • Cooltek W2
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10
      • Monitor(s):
      • Dell U2715H
    Quote Originally Posted by |SilentDeath|
    Doesnt matter.. infact its 125c usually... but aswell as that, they still have maximuim ratings. Find out the chips name and search for the datasheet...

    Ways to make the design better are more mosfets - so the load is spread between them, better cooling or less load.

    The design isnt perfect, but its not going to affect there sales. Improving the design would cost them..so they dont really bother...
    So the issue becomes finding the best motherboard design... Or modifying the board - which still strikes me as a bit extreme (in that waiting for next generation kit is likely to increase performance more than overclocking the current generation anyway). Personally I think the Asus nForce 2 boards (such as my A7N8X DLX v2.0) suffer from the same kind of problems... I found upgrading my PSU helped but doesn't cure the fact that there's more vcore wobble under high load... Have been tempted to swap it for the Abit NF7-S v2.0 to see if I can get more out of my XP-M but knowing my luck I'll find I just have a fairly bad XP-M and less cash if I did so...

  2. #34
    Senior Member SilentDeath's Avatar
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    Same thing with them too.. on my 1700+ (which is what im using atm untill I upgrade to AMD64) the droop @ 2v made the board compleatly unstable. Past 1.8v there was a LOT of droop - for example at 2v, the droop droped down to 1.92v.

    I think the DFI NF4 boards will be the best of the AMD64 ones.. so im getting the ultra.

    For my NF7-S I just cut up a peice of ALU heatsink (finned) to aviod the capacitors and used themal adhesive to glue it on. I also put a 40mm fan onto it.
    Now I can run all the way upto 2.15v without too much droop (its stable!) however my cpu quickly gets a bit too hot so I run at 1.8v 2.2ghz.
    Last edited by SilentDeath; 01-02-2005 at 11:05 PM.

  3. #35
    bored out of my tiny mind malfunction's Avatar
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    • malfunction's system
      • Motherboard:
      • Gigabyte G1.Sniper (with daft heatsinks and annoying Killer NIC)
      • CPU:
      • Xeon X5670 (6 core LGA 1366) @ 4.4GHz
      • Memory:
      • 48GB DDR3 1600 (6 * 8GB)
      • Storage:
      • 1TB 840 Evo + 1TB 850 Evo
      • Graphics card(s):
      • 290X
      • PSU:
      • Antec True Power New 750W
      • Case:
      • Cooltek W2
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10
      • Monitor(s):
      • Dell U2715H
    Quote Originally Posted by |SilentDeath|
    Same thing with them too.. on my 1700+ (which is what im using atm untill I upgrade to AMD64) the droop @ 2v made the board compleatly unstable. Past 1.8v there was a LOT of droop - for example at 2v, the droop droped down to 1.92v.

    I think the DFI NF4 boards will be the best of the AMD64 ones.. so im getting the ultra.

    For my NF7-S I just cut up a peice of ALU heatsink (finned) to aviod the capacitors and used themal adhesive to glue it on. I also put a 40mm fan onto it.
    Now I can run all the way upto 2.15v without too much droop (its stable!) however my cpu quickly gets a bit too hot so I run at 1.8v 2.2ghz.
    Well the Asus board runs my XP-M @ 1.9V / 2.3GHz (1.85V set in Bios - which is the max the board will let you set - Asus boards usually overvolt by .05V in my experience)... 2.4Ghz is 99.99% prime stable for an hour or two but no longer than that (and also has the odd crash in games so I only run @ 2.4 for the odd benchmark). I can post at 2.5Ghz but get crashes as soon as anything loads the CPU in windows... I also had a 1700+ in the same board before I upgraded which would do 2.1Ghz @ 1.9V but only after I'd upgraded my PSU (started out with a 330W Antec which had a LOT of ripple under load with high vcore) so I'm convinced you need a strong PSU as well as the MOSFETs... Oh and I have passive SB cooling and active NB cooling... May add MOSFET cooling too but as it's my day to day machine I probably ought to take my own advice and just be happy with what I've got

  4. #36
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    Reason I wanted to do this in the first place is so i can get a higher stable 24/7 use overclock because I want my pc to be the fastest it can be. I was thinking about doing the mosfets but really didnt feel like they could be the cause of the massive droop compared to other people with same board and diff cpu/same cpu. I dont need better cooling I dont want to go further than the best air cooling available (imo) because I dont want to do water the extra degree drop in temps wont justify doing it. I would need a vapo or mach.

    A 3.2ghz or 3.4ghz would eliminate most of the stress of the parts of the motherboard like mosfets because to reach 4ghz would be an easier task with the 800fsb. Also I want to get 4ghz stable 24/7 because that is freaking fast and I dont plan to upgrade till summer 2006 after this because my pc is peaked out.

    System includes :
    Intel Pentium4 2.8a @ 3.83ghz
    3.62GHZ 24/7 Runs Perfect
    Abit IC7-G
    Galaxy Geforce 6800 Ultra 470/1240
    1024mb G.Skill TCCD 2-2-2-5 'LC'
    Thermaltake Tower 112 w/ 2 UFO fans
    Aerocool Aeropower II+ Acrylic-Titanium Plated 550W
    Thermaltake XaserV V8000a

  5. #37
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    • Butcher's system
      • Motherboard:
      • MSI Z97 Gaming 3
      • CPU:
      • i7-4790K
      • Memory:
      • 8 GB Corsair 1866 MHz
      • Storage:
      • 120GB SSD, 240GB SSD, 2TB HDD
      • Graphics card(s):
      • MSI GTX 970
      • PSU:
      • Antec 650W
      • Case:
      • Big Black Cube!
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 7
    MOSFETs are usually OK up to 150-175C, however efficiency drops off rapidly over 25C so keeping them cooler means you can pump more power through them. Incidentally, they're usually SOT404 rather than TO220 and you're lucky if you get better than 50C/W even with the PCB acting as a sink.

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