IN9-32 MAX Watercooling..?

[cartman]

Hi All. Long time reader first time poster

I have a IN9-32 board, with two 8800GTX's, Intel QX6700, Corsair Dominator RAM and it runs waaay to hot. I'm investigating changing over to watercooling (something I have done in the past).

Can anybody reccomend or name any blocks which could be used to cool the (insanely hot running) PWM VRM chip on the IN9?

This is all I have been able to find [shopping in the UK] (but I don't know which one is suitable, their customer support dept has failed to respond to my queries):

specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/home.php?cat=554

Suggestions welcomed.

Thanks for any replies in advance!

[daza]

I think theres only one advailable at the mo as I've been looking for a long time, form c&c central, I should of had mine this morning but royal mail decided to be thick, so I'll have it tomorrow instead.

Also I think scan are bringing one out soon but I was impatient.

[gilgamesh]

I think theres only one advailable at the mo as I've been looking for a long time, form c&c central, I should of had mine this morning but royal mail decided to be thick, so I'll have it tomorrow instead.

Also I think scan are bringing one out soon but I was impatient.

Cheers mate I have been looking ALL over for that! Will incorperate it with my System.

By the way a few tips for the original poster re: water cooling.

Sincw you like myself have quadcore this is the optimum setup (case size wilL restrict you ofcourse)

Swiftech Apogee GT or D-Tek fusion water block, 1/2 " ID or 7/16ths " ID Tygon or cl;earflex tubing, Hihg flow barbs with clamps, Aphacool DDC pump or DDangeden DD5 Vario any bay res wqill do and a TERHMOCHILL PA 120.3 radiator. The radiator coupled with 3x 105 CFM fans will disspaTE about 600 Watts of heat.

http://store.over-clock.com/thermochill.html
http://store.over-clock.com/swiftech_blocks.html
http://store.over-clock.com/ek_blocks.html

Go for the EK water blocks for the wc GPU as they offer performance very close to the dangerden ones but for a far less price.

Again cheers for the lad whom found me that mosfet block

Gilgamesh

[daza]

Again cheers for the lad whom found me that mosfet block

No problem I should have it up and running on my quad gt tomorrow so Ill report back about the temp difference, it better be good took me over a month to find it.

[cartman]

Hi guys, thanks for your replies.

Thats a good find daza, I will buy one of those when you report it is OK!

Gilgamesh, thanks for your comments. I haven't finalised the set-up, but it will probably be something like this:

• Lian Li PC2100B Alu Full Tower
• Laing D5 DC Pump
• 120x3 & 120x2 radiators
• Tygon Tubing, naturally
• 2 EK 8800 Blocks
• Some sort of low profile SB block (due to SLI space issues?) - not sure
• A NB block
• A CPU block
• The VRM block daza found, (or failing that, an AlphaCool generic mosfet block?)
• Havent decided on the reservoir yet

For the blocks apart from 8800, I will look at DangerDen copper stuff first and foremost. My old rig had all dangerden stuff in it, and was very happy with it.

One possible configuration of my cooling is as follows:

res. -> pump -> cpu -> nb -> sb -> 2x120 rad -> Y splitter -> to both 8800s simultaneously -> to Y splitter back to 1 feed -> VRM -> 3x120 rad -> back to res.

I'm not sure if I would need two pumps for that system, and I'm trying to decide whether i should use two seperate loops - 120x2 HE with the CPU/NB/SB and the 120x3 on the gfx/vrm....

regarding your comments about just using one 120x2 - I used a 120x2 to cool an AMD athlon XP 2ghz, NB chip and ATI 9800, and the radiator was always very warm - there is no way in hell a t.e. 120x2 could sufficiently cool all the components listed above, hence the 5x heat exchanger design above. I want it to be very quiet, so 5x120 silent fans is preferable to 3x120 high speed fans if it yields the same sort of cooling performance.

[daza]

Right I was going to say aircool the NB with one of these but I'm not sure now as those 680i are toasty little buggers, anyway you dont need to cool the SB as it doesnt get hot and will just restrict flow rate, and I'd strongly recommend a couple of ek blocks SLI ready aswell.

Oh and your making those loops way to complicated if, personally: PA120.3>cp>PWM>NB>8800>8800>res>pump.........

[cartman]

Yeah you're right the SB won't need water cooling.. however, (as I will be removing the heatpipe device) I will need to get a passive/active air cooler for that chip correct? (Alternative is to cut up the heatpipe device so its just the SB section remaining - though 1. I thought the pipe had phase change fluid in it..? 2. Can't remember if it is the Asus Striker or the Abit IN9 but one of them has an aluminium cooling system painted a copper colour - I won't want to keep that even if it is for the SB).

I know some people say the order of the blocks in the loop is insignificant, but I like to believe otherwise With your example daza, I don't think putting the PWM at the start is a good idea - it is the hottest running component, so logically you want it to be last, just before the radiator surely?

Also, and this is probably less important than the PWM, the 8800s - do you not think running these parallel instead of serial is worth it? I would have thought as they are SLI'd putting the coolant on them at the same temps would be desirable..

You said my example was complicated - I know K.I.S.S. and all that, but for optimum performance complexity is often a necessary evil! What I'm trying to say is, I'm not too bothered about "over" complicated water loops if it has a tangible benefit. That said, I'm totally open to suggestions, its been several years since I setup a watercooling rig ]

--Updated:--

I've done some research, I think this is the shopping list I will go for once I have done some extra research (not including sundries like mountings, clips etc)

• 2x EK-FC8800 8800GTX Blocks
• Laing 12V D5 Pump (poss. 2x?)
• EK Multioption RES 200
• Danger Den TDX 775 CPU Block
• C&C Central MOSFET Block
• Alphacool NexXxos NB-SLI 1 Chipset Block (I'm assuming this low profile design is required for this mobo/SLI?)
• A boat load of Tygon 1/2" tubing
• ThermoChill PA120x3
• ThermoChill PA120x2 (not sure about this yet)
• Fluid XP+ Coolant - and perhaps a UV dye, but Tygon tubing has UV filters in it
• Noctua NF-S12 1200RPM 120mm Quiet Fans for the radiators

I will need to upgrade my case to the full tower variant also.

Thoughts on this plan guys? Thanks

[glowball]

Anyone have any thoughts on how restrictive those MIPS PWM blocks are combined with 1/2" tubing?
Been thinking of putting one in my setup but still not sure.

[gilgamesh]

Hi guys, thanks for your replies.

Thats a good find daza, I will buy one of those when you report it is OK!

Gilgamesh, thanks for your comments. I haven't finalised the set-up, but it will probably be something like this:

• Lian Li PC2100B Alu Full Tower
• Laing D5 DC Pump
• 120x3 & 120x2 radiators
• Tygon Tubing, naturally
• 2 EK 8800 Blocks
• Some sort of low profile SB block (due to SLI space issues?) - not sure
• A NB block
• A CPU block
• The VRM block daza found, (or failing that, an AlphaCool generic mosfet block?)
• Havent decided on the reservoir yet

For the blocks apart from 8800, I will look at DangerDen copper stuff first and foremost. My old rig had all dangerden stuff in it, and was very happy with it.

One possible configuration of my cooling is as follows:

res. -> pump -> cpu -> nb -> sb -> 2x120 rad -> Y splitter -> to both 8800s simultaneously -> to Y splitter back to 1 feed -> VRM -> 3x120 rad -> back to res.

I'm not sure if I would need two pumps for that system, and I'm trying to decide whether i should use two seperate loops - 120x2 HE with the CPU/NB/SB and the 120x3 on the gfx/vrm....

regarding your comments about just using one 120x2 - I used a 120x2 to cool an AMD athlon XP 2ghz, NB chip and ATI 9800, and the radiator was always very warm - there is no way in hell a t.e. 120x2 could sufficiently cool all the components listed above, hence the 5x heat exchanger design above. I want it to be very quiet, so 5x120 silent fans is preferable to 3x120 high speed fans if it yields the same sort of cooling performance.

No I said to use a 120.3 with 105CFM fans =usually panaflow. NEVER use two pumps not needed all you going to is dump more wattage from the extra pump into the liquid and TWO loops are rarley worth it.

See water cooling stickies under www.over-clock.co.uk (the owner of thermochill rads as it happens )

Yes you can use quiter fans on a push- pull config try teh xurillian fans which are a t 30db but punp 65cfm, faling that if you wish still quiter there isthe nexus fans.

Yes ALWAYS start from res to pump to CPU block first, this prevents a flow loss to cpu. incidently I have the D5 vario and EVE N set on the 2 speed will sufficently pump around your planned system mate.

By the way I am usinga lian-li v2000b+ case

and again the soutyhbrdige gets WAAAAAAAAAAAAY too hot on that board, be carefull as the southbridge hfs mounting holes are in DIRECT LINE with the PICE16 slot (as mention in a mod guide of mine and a report)

gilgamesh

gilgamesh

[gilgamesh]

Right I was going to say aircool the NB with one of these but I'm not sure now as those 680i are toasty little buggers, anyway you dont need to cool the SB as it doesnt get hot and will just restrict flow rate, and I'd strongly recommend a couple of ek blocks SLI ready aswell.

Oh and your making those loops way to complicated if, personally: PA120.3>cp>PWM>NB>8800>8800>res>pump.........

erm no mate, the southbrdige on the 680I DOES get hot VERY HOT as confirmed by the report I sent to abit on this matter. Remember on intel boards the southbridge is not working as hard, so runs very cool, however on the IN932 MAX (680I) the southbrdige RUNS VERY HOT

gilgamesh

[gilgamesh]

Yeah you're right the SB won't need water cooling.. however, (as I will be removing the heatpipe device) I will need to get a passive/active air cooler for that chip correct? (Alternative is to cut up the heatpipe device so its just the SB section remaining - though 1. I thought the pipe had phase change fluid in it..? 2. Can't remember if it is the Asus Striker or the Abit IN9 but one of them has an aluminium cooling system painted a copper colour - I won't want to keep that even if it is for the SB).

I know some people say the order of the blocks in the loop is insignificant, but I like to believe otherwise With your example daza, I don't think putting the PWM at the start is a good idea - it is the hottest running component, so logically you want it to be last, just before the radiator surely?

Also, and this is probably less important than the PWM, the 8800s - do you not think running these parallel instead of serial is worth it? I would have thought as they are SLI'd putting the coolant on them at the same temps would be desirable..

You said my example was complicated - I know K.I.S.S. and all that, but for optimum performance complexity is often a necessary evil! What I'm trying to say is, I'm not too bothered about "over" complicated water loops if it has a tangible benefit. That said, I'm totally open to suggestions, its been several years since I setup a watercooling rig ]

--Updated:--

I've done some research, I think this is the shopping list I will go for once I have done some extra research (not including sundries like mountings, clips etc)

• 2x EK-FC8800 8800GTX Blocks
• Laing 12V D5 Pump (poss. 2x?)
• EK Multioption RES 200
• Danger Den TDX 775 CPU Block
• C&C Central MOSFET Block
• Alphacool NexXxos NB-SLI 1 Chipset Block (I'm assuming this low profile design is required for this mobo/SLI?)
• A boat load of Tygon 1/2" tubing
• ThermoChill PA120x3
• ThermoChill PA120x2 (not sure about this yet)
• Fluid XP+ Coolant - and perhaps a UV dye, but Tygon tubing has UV filters in it
• Noctua NF-S12 1200RPM 120mm Quiet Fans for the radiators

I will need to upgrade my case to the full tower variant also.

Thoughts on this plan guys? Thanks

Lastly mate the dangerden TDX cpu block is not good enough for dual and quadcore to cool properly. That block is more designed for Single cores only. To do a PROPER job of it you must use either the Swiftech Apogee GT or the D-TEK FUsionh block (which comes out tops in all the tests)

Trust me you will be bitterly dissapointed withthe TDX

Also the consistency of the fluidxp is not suitable for Apogee gt or the dtek fusion due to the two sets of jets it has to go through. I would if you dont wis hto use distilled water that is, use the PC-ICE stuff as this hasa far thinner consistency so it will go through the 'jets' more easily

If you want pm me privately and I will help you spec out that kit

gilgamesh

[daza]

erm no mate, the southbrdige on the 680I DOES get hot VERY HOT as confirmed by the report I sent to abit on this matter. Remember on intel boards the southbridge is not working as hard, so runs very cool, however on the IN932 MAX (680I) the southbrdige RUNS VERY HOT

gilgamesh

I stand corrected then, right anyway my pwm block has just arrived so Ill post some pics when Im done, adn on air the pwms are loading at around 70c after 20mins of orthos so I'm hoping they'll go down abit. Anyway see you alll in a few hours.

[cartman]

Gilgamesh, thanks very much for taking the time to give those tips/comments. I will be in touch via PM to finalise the spec!

Daza, cant wait to see what you think of the MIPS block. Like glowball, I'm interested if the internal cavity is so small to put a lot of backpressure on a 1/2" system.. Perhaps start a new "review" thread for it on the forum?

Thanks

[gilgamesh]

Gilgamesh, thanks very much for taking the time to give those tips/comments. I will be in touch via PM to finalise the spec!

Daza, cant wait to see what you think of the MIPS block. Like glowball, I'm interested if the internal cavity is so small to put a lot of backpressure on a 1/2" system.. Perhaps start a new "review" thread for it on the forum?

Thanks

please see your pm

[daza]

Ok so whos the prize idiot of the day ME, I,ve just filled up the system and discovered theres basically a waterfall of mct 5 flowing through either the mosfet block itself or the fitting isnt done up very tight so I'm in the middle of pulling it apart and everything is on a 24hr drying session on my floor, and my soundcard is bassically floating now.

[gilgamesh]

Ok so whos the prize idiot of the day ME, I,ve just filled up the system and discovered theres basically a waterfall of mct 5 flowing through either the mosfet block itself or the fitting isnt done up very tight so I'm in the middle of pulling it apart and everything is on a 24hr drying session on my floor, and my soundcard is bassically floating now.

EEEK sorry mate

4 word for you old buddy

24 HOURS LEAK TESTING!

Seriously what barbs have you used?

gilgamesh