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Thread: AN8 Ultra error code 0.4.

  1. #1
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    • 8bit's system
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    AN8 Ultra error code 0.4.

    Yes, that old chestnut again. I built a machine for a friend (AN8 Ultra, Venice-core 3500+, 2x 512MB Crucial Ballistix, Radeon X300, Maxtor 80GB and 200GB HDDs, Akasa PaxPower 460w) and have had no end of trouble with the machine refusing to POST.

    Until recently we were on the latest (at the time) BIOS, 8.20. On that BIOS we were getting various error codes so I rolled it back to 8.19. What happens now is that every time the machine is powered on it freezes before starting up the display (i.e. the monitor doesn't come out of standby) with the error code 0.4. Once this happens if I leave it sitting like that for five minutes, power off and try again it starts up fine, but it gives a message saying something like "Incorrect CMOS data, using defaults, press F1 to continue." Clearing the CMOS using the jumper on the board clears that error message but the next time the machine is powered on and we get the 0.4. code, the CMOS message comes back again.

    I've tried various different memory to no avail and the stuff that's in there now is on the compatibility list. I've tried every possible permutation of the memory (single and dual channel, different slots, each stick on its own etc), have got the latest firmware from Maxtor for the hard disks so it's not that. Have tried different PSUs, different SATA ports for the HDDs (and different combinations of the two drives and each on it's own), no joy.

    The only things I haven't tried are the graphics card and the CPU. I haven't got another PCIe card to test it with nor another machine I can try that card in. As for the CPU, I could try my own one (3500+ Winchester) but I don't want to go yanking it out and messing about with thermal paste unless it's absolutely necessary.

    I have contacted ABit support but unfortunately they weren't very helpful and weren't that keen on RMAing the board. Also, it's going to cost some money to RMA and turnaround is about 2 weeks so I don't want to do that unless it's really necessary. Is it worthwhile trying the CPUs? Anyone got any other ideas what might be wrong here?

    cheers in advance
    8bit
    "shiro" - Windows 11 Home x64 :: Intel i5-12600K :: Corsair H115i :: MSI Z690-A Pro :: 2x 16GB Kingston HyperX DDR5 :: NVidia 4070 Super FE :: Corsair Force MP600 (1TB) :: WD Caviar Black (2TB) :: WD Caviar Green (2TB) :: Corsair Carbide Air 540 (white) :: LG 32QK500 2560x1440 :: Razer Pro Click :: Cherry KC6000 Slim ::

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    ABIT UK ABIT Sean's Avatar
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    The problem you are having is memory related. Try the board without the graphics card.
    Remove all parts (HDD, optical devices, VGA card, Sound cards etc...) except the CPU and one stick of memory in dimm 1.
    You should see the post code stop at a code starting with 7.
    If this happens restart the machine a few times and make sure it stops at this code every time.
    Please be aware that the AN8 series requires the CMOS to be cleared whenever the hardware is changed.

    Once the board posts correctly, insert the VGA card, clear the CMOS and switch on.

    Let me know how you get on.

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    • 8bit's system
      • Motherboard:
      • MSI Z170A-G43 PLUS
      • CPU:
      • Intel i7-6700K
      • Memory:
      • 2x Kingston HyperX Fury Black (8GB)
      • Storage:
      • 1x Crucial MX100 512GB, 1x Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB (WD1001FALS)
      • Graphics card(s):
      • Sapphire AMD R9 390 Nitro
      • PSU:
      • Corsair RM650x
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      • Corsair Carbide Air 540
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    Thanks Sean. When you say soundcard, we're using the onboard one with the backplane card included with the motherboard, should we take that out too?

    Also - clearing the CMOS. Can you clarify what the correct way to do this is? Obviously there is the jumper, what I've been doing is powering the machine off (including the switch on the PSU itself), closing the CMOS clear jumper and leaving it like that for 10 minutes or so without powering the machine on at all. is that the right way to do it for this board? The manual doesn't give enough information on that.

    The machine is at my mate's place so might be a few days before I get a chance to have another look at it but will post results back here when I do.
    "shiro" - Windows 11 Home x64 :: Intel i5-12600K :: Corsair H115i :: MSI Z690-A Pro :: 2x 16GB Kingston HyperX DDR5 :: NVidia 4070 Super FE :: Corsair Force MP600 (1TB) :: WD Caviar Black (2TB) :: WD Caviar Green (2TB) :: Corsair Carbide Air 540 (white) :: LG 32QK500 2560x1440 :: Razer Pro Click :: Cherry KC6000 Slim ::

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    • listy's system
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    i dont think you need to leave clear cmos for 10minutes last time i done it was just few seconds but i could be wrong

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    ABIT UK ABIT Sean's Avatar
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    The point I was trying to get across was that all non essential hardware was removed during testing. So you would not require the ABIT audioMax card to be connected.

    As for the CMOS, switch the power off and move the jumper to posistion 2-3 for a few seconds and then move back to pins 1-2.

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    • 8bit's system
      • Motherboard:
      • MSI Z170A-G43 PLUS
      • CPU:
      • Intel i7-6700K
      • Memory:
      • 2x Kingston HyperX Fury Black (8GB)
      • Storage:
      • 1x Crucial MX100 512GB, 1x Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB (WD1001FALS)
      • Graphics card(s):
      • Sapphire AMD R9 390 Nitro
      • PSU:
      • Corsair RM650x
      • Case:
      • Corsair Carbide Air 540
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10 Home
      • Monitor(s):
      • LG 29UM67 29", 21:9, 2560x1080
      • Internet:
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    k thanks guys, will get on it next time i get a chance

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    "shiro" - Windows 11 Home x64 :: Intel i5-12600K :: Corsair H115i :: MSI Z690-A Pro :: 2x 16GB Kingston HyperX DDR5 :: NVidia 4070 Super FE :: Corsair Force MP600 (1TB) :: WD Caviar Black (2TB) :: WD Caviar Green (2TB) :: Corsair Carbide Air 540 (white) :: LG 32QK500 2560x1440 :: Razer Pro Click :: Cherry KC6000 Slim ::

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    • 8bit's system
      • Motherboard:
      • MSI Z170A-G43 PLUS
      • CPU:
      • Intel i7-6700K
      • Memory:
      • 2x Kingston HyperX Fury Black (8GB)
      • Storage:
      • 1x Crucial MX100 512GB, 1x Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB (WD1001FALS)
      • Graphics card(s):
      • Sapphire AMD R9 390 Nitro
      • PSU:
      • Corsair RM650x
      • Case:
      • Corsair Carbide Air 540
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10 Home
      • Monitor(s):
      • LG 29UM67 29", 21:9, 2560x1080
      • Internet:
      • PlusNet Fibre
    Quote Originally Posted by ABIT Sean
    The problem you are having is memory related. Try the board without the graphics card.
    Remove all parts (HDD, optical devices, VGA card, Sound cards etc...) except the CPU and one stick of memory in dimm 1.
    You should see the post code stop at a code starting with 7.
    If this happens restart the machine a few times and make sure it stops at this code every time.
    Please be aware that the AN8 series requires the CMOS to be cleared whenever the hardware is changed.

    Once the board posts correctly, insert the VGA card, clear the CMOS and switch on.

    Let me know how you get on.
    Hi Sean,

    Right, last night I went through that lot you suggested in full. Right enough, with only 1 stick of RAM and no VGA card it did freeze with the post code starting 7. I reset the machine and also full power-cycled it a few times to ensure consistent results, which I got.

    One by one started adding components like VGA card, PCI modem, AudioMAX card, hard drive, optical drives etc. making sure to clear the CMOS with every hardware change and if presented with the "CMOS data invalid, loading fail-safe defaults" message, going into the BIOS and hitting F10 to save the new information.

    However the problem still hasn't gone away. My friend (the owner of the machine) powered it on this morning and it stuck with the POST code showing 0.4. just as before. About the only other thing I haven't tried is a different processor. I have a Winchester A64 3500, my friend's is a Venice 3500. Is it worth us swapping them over and trying that? What else can I try or is it now a case of RMA'ing the board?
    "shiro" - Windows 11 Home x64 :: Intel i5-12600K :: Corsair H115i :: MSI Z690-A Pro :: 2x 16GB Kingston HyperX DDR5 :: NVidia 4070 Super FE :: Corsair Force MP600 (1TB) :: WD Caviar Black (2TB) :: WD Caviar Green (2TB) :: Corsair Carbide Air 540 (white) :: LG 32QK500 2560x1440 :: Razer Pro Click :: Cherry KC6000 Slim ::

  8. #8
    ABIT UK ABIT Sean's Avatar
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    There are three things that are related to that error code
    Memory
    Graphics Card
    CPU

    If you rule out all of these then the only option left is a faulty motherboard.

  9. #9
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    • 8bit's system
      • Motherboard:
      • MSI Z170A-G43 PLUS
      • CPU:
      • Intel i7-6700K
      • Memory:
      • 2x Kingston HyperX Fury Black (8GB)
      • Storage:
      • 1x Crucial MX100 512GB, 1x Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB (WD1001FALS)
      • Graphics card(s):
      • Sapphire AMD R9 390 Nitro
      • PSU:
      • Corsair RM650x
      • Case:
      • Corsair Carbide Air 540
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10 Home
      • Monitor(s):
      • LG 29UM67 29", 21:9, 2560x1080
      • Internet:
      • PlusNet Fibre
    Quote Originally Posted by ABIT Sean
    There are three things that are related to that error code
    Memory
    Graphics Card
    CPU

    If you rule out all of these then the only option left is a faulty motherboard.
    OK, will swap CPUs over and see how we each get on.
    "shiro" - Windows 11 Home x64 :: Intel i5-12600K :: Corsair H115i :: MSI Z690-A Pro :: 2x 16GB Kingston HyperX DDR5 :: NVidia 4070 Super FE :: Corsair Force MP600 (1TB) :: WD Caviar Black (2TB) :: WD Caviar Green (2TB) :: Corsair Carbide Air 540 (white) :: LG 32QK500 2560x1440 :: Razer Pro Click :: Cherry KC6000 Slim ::

  10. #10
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    • 8bit's system
      • Motherboard:
      • MSI Z170A-G43 PLUS
      • CPU:
      • Intel i7-6700K
      • Memory:
      • 2x Kingston HyperX Fury Black (8GB)
      • Storage:
      • 1x Crucial MX100 512GB, 1x Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB (WD1001FALS)
      • Graphics card(s):
      • Sapphire AMD R9 390 Nitro
      • PSU:
      • Corsair RM650x
      • Case:
      • Corsair Carbide Air 540
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10 Home
      • Monitor(s):
      • LG 29UM67 29", 21:9, 2560x1080
      • Internet:
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    Quote Originally Posted by ABIT Sean
    There are three things that are related to that error code
    Memory
    Graphics Card
    CPU

    If you rule out all of these then the only option left is a faulty motherboard.
    OK, We tried the CPU and that doesn't make any difference, still the 0.4 error on a cold boot every time. We've now eliminated the CPU, graphics card and memory (and a whole lot of other stuff besides them) so I'm 100% certain we have a faulty AN8 Ultra here.

    Sean, can you tell me who to phone/email to arrange an RMA for this board please?
    "shiro" - Windows 11 Home x64 :: Intel i5-12600K :: Corsair H115i :: MSI Z690-A Pro :: 2x 16GB Kingston HyperX DDR5 :: NVidia 4070 Super FE :: Corsair Force MP600 (1TB) :: WD Caviar Black (2TB) :: WD Caviar Green (2TB) :: Corsair Carbide Air 540 (white) :: LG 32QK500 2560x1440 :: Razer Pro Click :: Cherry KC6000 Slim ::

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    Bump!

    I'm having the same problems as the original poster except a couple of different conditions. Firstly I have an AN8 Ultra, AMD 3500+ 64 Venice Core, 1G Dual DDR400 Corsair RAM, X800XL HiS graphics card and a creative soundblaster.

    Ok, so my computer has never had many problems booting (the only issue was I bought a SATA II HDD and sometimes it won't show up in boot so I have to restart then BIOS complains that boot priority has been effected) but I am now being effected by the 0.4 postcode, the system refuses to boot past this code.

    This is how it happened: I was playing Battlefield 1942 and the screen went mental, displaying a mix of colours on my screen that took up all the display area, the sound in the background continued until it crashed and you get that looping sound you would get if your PC crashed to BSOD whilst you were playing music. Upon restarting I ran into the 0.4 problem. This wasn't the first time it happened though, it did it about two days ago but I managed to change the RAM around and it booted. But a day later I put the other stick back in so I had dual channel operating again without any problems.

    It was mentioned above that the three causes are CPU, RAM and Graphics card. I'm almost certain CPU and RAM are fine as i've been using the computer normally up until recently. 8bit was told to eliminate all possible causes of the error but I didn't see where it was mentioned to eliminate the graphics card.

    If i remove the graphics card the system will boot up until the code with 7.x, this works with both sticks in the DIMM slots or just the one stick. When I place the gfx card back in it freezes at 0.4. Can I assume the graphics card is at fault here?

    Thanks for your time.

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    Well the fan on the graphics card isn't spinning so I guess that would mean i'd have to test to see if it's the PCI-Ex slot or the card itself. Any easier ways than actually finding another PCI-Ex card?

  13. #13
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    got an old PCI gfx card?
    It does sound like your gfx card may have gone south.

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    For those who have encountered the same error and want one possible cause to cross off their list; this was my problem.

    I have an absolute rubbish case, it only has two mounting points for the motherboard so after some time, the board began to touch the metal casing. This in turn has caused some sort of short or break in the circuitry that was causing the PCI-Ex slot to become unable to power on the graphics card.

    After removing the entire board from the case and running the system barebones, I was able to boot as usual. I have obviously purchased a better case and have since had no problems.

    It's a long shot but no harm in posting a solution to a problem.

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    • 8bit's system
      • Motherboard:
      • MSI Z170A-G43 PLUS
      • CPU:
      • Intel i7-6700K
      • Memory:
      • 2x Kingston HyperX Fury Black (8GB)
      • Storage:
      • 1x Crucial MX100 512GB, 1x Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB (WD1001FALS)
      • Graphics card(s):
      • Sapphire AMD R9 390 Nitro
      • PSU:
      • Corsair RM650x
      • Case:
      • Corsair Carbide Air 540
      • Operating System:
      • Windows 10 Home
      • Monitor(s):
      • LG 29UM67 29", 21:9, 2560x1080
      • Internet:
      • PlusNet Fibre
    Sorry but i'm bumping this thread again. Got the replacement board (which looks decidedly like a used one to me), installed it but we're still getting the same error. I emailed Sean at Abit but got no reply. Sorry Sean but I need this sorting out.

    Additionally, the "new" board sometimes posts with an incorrect amount of RAM showing (1047-something KB instead of 1048576 KB), when it does this then booting into XP and running CPU-Z shows the HTT speed running at 193MHz instead of the proper 200MHz. It shows this symptom with various types of RAM installed, some on the published compatible list and some not.

    What happens now?

    EDIT: Just checked the serial numbers on the original board and the replacement we're using now. The number on the replacement board is a lot lower than the original so that plus the fact that it looked pretty used (bits of TIM on the CPU socket, dust around the radiator bit on the rear, stickers on the board peeling at the corners) it looks like we got sent a used or reconditioned board. Not happy.
    Last edited by 8bit; 24-10-2006 at 08:45 PM.
    "shiro" - Windows 11 Home x64 :: Intel i5-12600K :: Corsair H115i :: MSI Z690-A Pro :: 2x 16GB Kingston HyperX DDR5 :: NVidia 4070 Super FE :: Corsair Force MP600 (1TB) :: WD Caviar Black (2TB) :: WD Caviar Green (2TB) :: Corsair Carbide Air 540 (white) :: LG 32QK500 2560x1440 :: Razer Pro Click :: Cherry KC6000 Slim ::

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    Dude I had the same type of problem - I tried everything, even packing the board from underneath the memory slot - I've just this second tried the only thing left - I unclipped the heatsink locking arm, NOT the actual metal clips holding it on, just the securing arm, and I now get to 7F. No more 0.4.!!

    So, my heatsink was just too tight. Weird huh?

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